New build with a FM stage 1
 

Hi All,

I've been reading for the past week or so and trying to decide how to get moar power. I think I've got an idea but wanted to bounce it off everyone here as well as ask a few questions:

Vehicle: 01 SE
-LSD
-6 speed
-Fancy wooden shifter knob. (it matters)
-FM Stage 1.5 suspension.
-All else stock

Goals: ~200whp +/-15 to make commuting more fun. Vehicle will not be tracked--just looking for reliable power without a ton of tinkering needed after everything's installed. (some tinkering is fine)

Plan: I'm thinking about going with the FM Stage 1 that's now CARB legal, as well as the FM happymeal clutch/lighter fly wheel combo. Based on everything I've seen this will be a pretty safe and easier turbo build--comes with everything, includes good instructions and tech support. (Biggest job I ever did was swapping the timing belt so this is useful)

Questions:
-Let's say I want more later...( don't think I will but y'all keep saying boost is addicting) From what I understand, most of the hardware will already be there so the only things between me and extra boost would be pulling the voodoo box, adding injectors, an MS, a wideband, and learn to tune. Did I miss anything?
-I wanna keep the car smogable in Colorado so I need the OBD2 port to keep working. What other options do I have in 2019 besides FM for a setup?

Thanks and feel free to flame as necessary for stuff I should already know.

If you're intent on keeping the stock ECU for emissions compliance, then the FM kit is by far the best way to go.

You are correct in all your assumptions.

However i dont think you will quite reach 200hp, as its my understanding that the FM carb legal kit keeps the stock injectors, which max out sooner than 200whp.
maybe you can add a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to boost the injectors output under boost.

to make more power, you need bigger injectors, megasquirt, AFR gauge and boost controller. then crank up the boost and tune accordingly.

FM1 is a great clutch, i've had mine for several years and love it. held 309whp just fine.

I am going to echo that I will be surprised if you hit 200whp. Probably closer to 170-180. Which is still good fun. Bigger injectors or a rrfpr can probably get you to 200.

I would get a wideband anyway and just replace your narrow band with it. Get one with a narrow band output and wire it to the ECU so it's happy. (I like the AEM UEGO).

Bigger injectors and a megasquirt will get you plug and play to.... What turbo does the FM1 kit come with? 2560? Probably good for ~250-270 wheel with a good tune.

Thanks for the info everyone. The more I look into things and get feedback I'm coming to terms with realistic power being lower than I hoped--especially since I live/drive at ~5300ft, it might be even a bit less but oh well. Going from ~100whp to 175 is still a big enough jump. If I do ever want to take the next step and change injectors/engine management it is good to know the turbo bits I'm adding now will be usable.

Couple more questions:
-What is the benefit of adding a wide band now if I can't tune the Voodoo box? Just to understand how the mix is running? Is it a might as well when I'm in there?
-Are the bent steel lines for water and oil drain worth it over the silicon? It's a cost but is it worth it?
-Tried to search for this but was coming up short--Would the extra bits that come with adding a turbo system make it even harder to reach the standard oil filter--meaning I should add an oil relocation kit to the build?

The wideband is to keep an eye on everything and make sure the voodoo box is actualy doing it's job.

Don't know.

There shouldn't be anything added on that side of the engine.

For the later NA8s and NBs, the oil supply is teed off the pressure sender location, so there would be the T-fitting next to the filter. However, I don't think the hose should interfere with oil filter removal.

Currently attempting to get past that emissions hurdle myself. With CO emissions you'll need the OBD2 port working and MS doesn't do that. So I just spent the last two days putting in the stock ECU, injectors, OEM O2 sensor, etc. If you're wanting to keep it smogable w/o too much hassle then you should probably start out with the FM CARB kit.

Otherwise you'll just have to swap things out every 2 years to pass smog.

As for the steel lines vs. silicon. I can't say, I opted for the silicon lines and so far haven't had any issues but ultimately it's your call.

And as huesmann said, the oil feed for the turbo comes off the pressure sender location which is directly up and to the left of the oil filter and doesn't interfere with the oil filter removal.

What do the OBD tests actually do?

Would something like this be an option?
https://core-electronics.com.au/free...lator-mk2.html
(other than the cost of course)


Alos:
https://www.hackster.io/ebaera/obd2-simulator-e8686c


The fact that nobody seems to use those kind of things tells me that the OBD tsting is more than just "plug it in and see that there's no codes coming up"
But yeah, if the test is that simple it may be an option.

Spoofing OBDI/canbus tests is highly illegal is why noone does it /sells things to do it.

In CO, OBD test checks if the Check Engine light is working (it lights up), check for stored codes and if your emission monitors are set to "ready."

I'm not 100% certain of CO's previous emissions laws, but before I don't believe they used to look for the emissions monitors to be set to ready. Anytime you unplug the battery, clear codes or reset the ECU those monitors go into a "not ready" state.

When performing a drive cycle, the ECU runs through a set of program parameters to check if your emissions systems are working. If they pass them the ECU sets them to "ready"

From what I've heard, I believe in the past when people had engine codes they would clear them right before they would drive to the emissions testing place and pass because they used to only look for codes and a check engine light. So I believe that's why they look for your emission monitors to be set to ready.

State laws vary from place to place on allowances for some emissions monitors to be in a not ready state and still pass. I'm not too sure about CO.

But I will add that I've done a little bit more research and I can't confirm this, but from one of the Colorado.gov pages I saw that vehicles 8-11 years old MUST pass the OBD portion of the test and vehicles 11+ years old MUST pass the IM 240 dynometer test.

It didnt state that vehicles in those age ranges MUST pass both in order to pass.

It's got me thinking that maybe swapping out to the OEM stuff wasn't really necessary and that all I needed to do was pass the sniffer test.

That makes sense.
Well, unless you're VW :P

Unexpected that it's such an intensive test!

(in saying that, I didnt realise the OBD2 had as much data in it as it does, we didnt get OBD on Miata/MX5s until 2001 or so)