New here.
 

Hey, I just bought a Greddy kit (like, half an hour ago..lol) so looks like I'll be hanging around! Seems to be some very chill and yet still knowledgeable people here.

As for accessories, I was thinking some exhaust wrap to be kind to my braking components, and maybe some water or alcohol injection down the line to allow for better timing. Oh, and I should do relief cuts in the manifold, I remember that too. Is there anything else I should strongly consider? I'll be running relatively low boost for a long time, at least until my drivetrain is made to handle the added stress.

hi i recognize you from the other miata boards

welcome, I found these guys to be extremely informative and some of the coolest people on any forum...period.

^ seems to be that way! I recognise you and a few others here too, clshrckr.

welcome

It's not being kind to your exhaust though, changes are it will cause premature corrosion or cracking. Sheild what you don't want to see heat, let the heat creators be able to radiate the heat of themselves.

There's a group buy for a awsome kit right now. Otherwise research the Bipes ACU, it's what the majority of us use to controll timing.

Yes, you should.

Have fun! Ask us for help.


The engine can handle around 200-250rwhp. The rear-end is another story, it's hard to say when it might go. You can blow a 6" rear with the stock power, but others have been running 200hp to them without a problem. It's easy to swap to a 1.8 rear end, it's something to think about. Other than that you won't really need to worry about anything under 250rwhp. Expect brakes...

Yup, I'm mainly concerned about the rear end.

I'm considering the W/AI as an alternative to an intercooler, since running a crossover tube looks like it would help spool (less pipe to charge) and also so nothing is in front of the rad. That's my thinking anyway.

And a clutch... don't forget about THAT!!!

Am I the only one who remembers to tell newbs about the clutch? I guess I'm still a newb too... but lack of knowledge never stops a good Navy man from opening his mouth... think about how much I'll know when I do actually install the turbo!!! ...but I digress.

Some people "manage" the stock clutch with stock Greddy power, ie 5-6psi. I can't imagine ever "managing" anything about the clutch (doesn't sound like much fun), so I've got a Spec Stage II all ready to go in. Somebody's Stage 1 will be enough for stock Greddy power... but you'll want more sooner than later, might as well go Stage2 so you only have to do it once. There are half-a-dozen other options. Just do a title search across the various forums here and at m.net.

But for my 2cents:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3492
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ghlight=clutch
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ghlight=clutch

Brain is right about the Bipes. You can get them used for $175 and pull up to (I think) 16* of timing which should solve your knock problems. I think the Bipes and some water injection should do up to about 10psi.

Did somebody already mention fuel pump and injectors?

with time...with time, one thing at a time here.

Bipes - Bipes - Bipes!
Super Simple set-up!
Boost Gauge is also recommended!

Many opinions about what's best to get, haha. That's good though, just trying to decide which to make priority.

What I'm thinking, and bear with me here, is this;

Leave the kit alone until I do drivetrain mods (clutch, pumpkin, prolly 40% stiffer engine mounts), then work on upping pressure.

Use W/AI instead of an intercooler, get aftermarket rad., possibly oil cooler. Use EM-U to get rid of AFM, then tune.

Sound good?

Bipes should be up there, otherwise timing must stay retarded and you lose low-end.

Next would be clutch. Then upgrade the kit. Then consider a pumpkin.

Won't the EM-U handle timing? I don't really want to buy a lot of management before the EM-U if I'm just going to end up taking it back off.

Unless... I could get the bipes and run better timing (I'm guessing the bipes waits until boost hits to retard timing?) and then turn around and sell it for about what I paid for it when I do get the EM-U.

EDIT - kit just shipped!

EMU can retard timing and a hellofva lot more.

That's what I was thinking. The EM-U seems so capable, I think I'll just leave it for now, get the drivetrain in check, and then when the time comes (maybe when I re-enlist.. another bonus) find a dyno shop and have the EM-U tuned.

Was there a lot of casting imperfections in the manifold on y'all's kit? Or in the downpipe? If I clean it up before the install what can I use to prevent oxidation?

GRADE 8 or higher manifold/turbo and downpipe bolts!!!

Powder coating the down pipe with high temp stuff!

Oh yeah, WELCOME and goodluck :bigtu:

I take it the grade 8 stuff doesn't come with the kit, then?

My understanding is the hardware that comes from Greddy is made out of playdoh or something similar. :)

Well most of this is listed above but I'll say a few things:

Depending on when you last changed them, you might want to consider spark plugs and wires and taking your plugs to a smaller gap/one step colder. Definitely budget for a clutch, and the possibility of a rear end. Wrap things that might melt in heat wrap... not the exhaust itself.. and retard that timing. Other then that.. have fun :)

+1

I would also add a fuel filter to the list..

fuel filter and new plugs going in before install, I'm also considering checking the fuel system using a gauge before the install just to be certain everything's up to snuff. AC is coming out, stopped for the night, picking back up tomorrow after "mandatory" platoon breakfast at 0615.. yeah..

what's the consensus on plugs? which ones? I don't know if the dude at advance or wherever will know what to get me for one step colder plugs..

KOTO -
Why do you want to pull your A/C? :confused:

It doesn't work anyway so it's just dead weight right now.

So it looks like I'll be installing a devilsown WI kit, bipes, and aux. fuel pump along with the kit, since they should all arrive around the next week or so.

Speaking of, with the bipes and WI, I plan on running 6 psi. How much timing should I be able to get away with? I'm trying to cut down on lag as much as possible.

Ripping out the AC freed up so much room!! The radiator seems much happier now too since it's getting a breath of fresh air. It also *seems like* I can feel the absence of it as more agility in the steering wheel, maybe it's just placebo effect.

So far in prepping for the kit I've:

1. changed the fuel filter
2. done my best to clean out the intake manifold by fogging with injector cleaner
3. timing belt/wp are new (about 5-10k miles)

I've ordered:

1. Greddy kit
2. bipes
3. msd aux pump
4. devilsown basic kit, 3 gph nozzle

I'm thinking, and WideOpenTuning seems to like the idea, of running the 14* btdc that I have now, and having the bipes retard to 10* with the WI. I really want this thing to drive like it came with the turbo (as much as possible anyway). I plan on running 6 psi until I upgrade the fuel system further (what's the next step anyway? 1.8 injectors? better FMU?) and change out clutch, diff, etc.

Should I change the oil now or not bother until after the turbo install?

I'd wait to change the oil and filter until after you install the turbo, especially if you intend to drill and tap the oil pan.

Groovy, thanks! I'm gonna go full synthetic as soon as the turbo's on.

Anyone have answers to my other questions?

For plugs,
NGK BRKR7E's (same as a Volvo S70????)
Timing- Try advancing 12-14 degree's base to start(make sure your using premium fuel). (never mind I see your at 14 already...)
Set the Bipes to pull 10-12 like you planned, make sure you have your fuel pressure right before playing with timing too much.

BKR7E plugs.

You can also get autolite 3922s (a lot easier to find) for a one step colder plug for the 1.6.

And for FI you'll want to gap them between .030 and .035

If you search for a 2001 Saab 9-5 Turbo 3.0LV6 B308E, you should be able to use search results to help find a plug

Autolites SUCK!

I'm rocking them! All the same to me.

Set bipes to pull 10-12 degrees or to retard TO 10-12 degrees? How much timing can I run with the WI @ 6 psi?

What do I do to "make the fuel pressure right"?

dont pull 10-12, set it to retard 2-4, to reach 10-12*. Find your highest degree without ping and maybe pull one extra, but it shouldn't be much.

From what I've been reading, the supplied FMU sucks. I think it's on Pop's page it says that it does nothing until 1 1/4 psi, then shoots up, then levels off at about 5psi, creating a lean/rich/stoich scenario as you make the transition into boost. Would it benefit me to get a Begi or Vortech S-FMU at this point then? Or do they do the same thing?

Cool, thanks!

Do you know how to set up the switches to accomplish that?