Oil return question
 

Is there any reason not to put the oil return in this location versus putting it in the more standard (per braineac's faq) location? Also, for the 'standard' location, are there any measurements as to where exactly it goes? Distance from pan flange, etc?

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That looks like it should be good. The main thing is that it is higher than the oil level, and does not interfere with anything.

Is there anything that I could hit on the other side of the pan in that area?

I just read through the FM turbo install instructions. If i can't access that higher rearward area, I'll just use their instructions.

Thats a picture of my engine right there. I placed it in that location while the motor was apart (well oil pan was just set on) because it seemed the shortest route possible without causing interference. However, since I had the pan off, i was able to get it perfectly between the two rod mains that go right there and also i do not have AC or power steering, so i dunno how that would play out.

Yeah, I walked outside and took a look. It's impossible to get to with the engine in. I feel a bit silly having asked.

I'm just going to do it the way the FM direction say. 2" below the oil pan flange as far forward in that front section of the pan as possible.

Do you have a link or picture of the FM way?

i have mine done that way right angle air grinders are you freinds it is more direct. I did nick the oil pickup a little but no biggie, just dont go to far in, and you wont puncuture it.

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/faq/oilports.jpg


as per the FM instructions..... tap where I have marked in red. Just do it in the middle of the first two bolts. This is the best and easiest location to do it while the engine is in the car.....Everywhere else, good luck.

Yeah. What Brain said. There is a link to the install instructions on FM's sight. Pretty nice actually.

I still haven't been able to drill the hole. I have the bit, the tap, but my drill chuck is only 3/8ths. I don't want to buy another drill or pay 20 bucks to rent one so I'm in the begging mode right now :) I did find a 1/2 replacement chuck for 3/8ths drills, but it didn't fit my Dewalt. Frustrating stuff.

i used a metal router bit to make the hole from ace 5 bucks, and fit in my normal drill and right angle air tool no problem. the pan is only alluminum guys

I want to drill the oil drain flange as well and put a hose barb pointing straight down. That's not AL, hence the problem. I think I found someone to borrow a drill from though so all is good.

A stepper bit would do the trick as well, providing one of the steps matches the size needed for the tap. Bonus is the bit is really sharp and should be less likely to deposit little bits of metal in the oil pan.

Anyone who isntalls a roll bar needs a right angle drill and a stepper bit :)

Sorry to hi-jack....
Tapping the oilpan and having the return on the same side as the turbo has its obvious benefits. However, has anyone considered that while travling the long return path, the oil would get a chance to cool down? I have no data to prove it, but it seems to make sense...

yeah it could happen but the heat and reversion risks are to great. for me anyway + then i couldn't use teflon inner braided stanless lines and i would be stuck with rubber shit :ugh:

beasty555, yes, the oil traveling the long path around the engine would have a chance to cool down more than just traveling the short length to the pan, but the benefits seem to outweight the risks on this particular vehicle.

I have mine pretty far forward. no issues. pretty easy to get to.

http://www.y8s.com/albums/turbo/DSC00612.sized.jpg

nope just a real long drill bit, makes life so easy

so...since i seem to be the only p*ssy here who doesn't wanna tap his pan while it's on the motor...anybody in VA Beach wanna tap mine in a few weeks?

There's at least 10 members here from VA. So help is nearby, but really, tapping it is straightfoward. Really. Everyone is nervous to do it first time, and nobody wants to do it. Just follow instructions, you'll be fine.

actually tapping isn't a big deal, i'm just afraid of metal getting in the pan.....so if someone else does it, i can look away and then there's no turning back, LOL

I finally got around to doing this tonight. I coated each bit I used and the tap in some moly grease and very little metal (that I could feel anyway) got into the pan.

I still need to finalize my oil return tomorrow after I finish retapping one of my turbo to manifold bolt holes. 2 of the bolts broke off when I tried to remove them. Got the grade 8s ready to go to replace them...

I actually did a test on a sump pan off the engine and there's hardly anything that gets into the pan at all if you drill nice and slowly.
If you go at it with stupid RPM's then there's small bits that will get into the pan, but seeing as most pans have a nice layer of sludge in the bottom it just sticks to that anyway and never goes anywhere.
A lot of scaremongering goes on it seems with the drilling crowd for no real reason at all!

I did the greased bit, slow rpm, and then flushed with 2 quarts of cheap oil. I didnt see any come out with the flush, I didnt feel any when I stuck my fingers in, and the bits were packed with shavings.

its way less drama than it seems like. I was so afraid I taped my bit so it couldnt go deeper with out me pushing. worked fine.

The only 'scary' moment I had was when one of the intermediate bits I was using pulled it's way through more than I was expecting. Luckily it didn't hit anything, but it was one of those 'oh shit' moments.

Talk to SamNavy. or drive up here and like 10 of us can do it. But my drill and tap is in FL right now with the Rican.

If I could find a dam tap that is the right size I'd get mine done, fucking 22mm(-10an size)

My -10AN used a 1/2" NPT. You can buy the correct parts to do it.

All these standard size stuff is so confusing...The physical outter diameter of the fitting is 22mm...The inner diameter is 1/2inch

This site
http://icrank.com/cgi-bin/pageman/pa...rt_npt.htm&t=2

says 1/2''npt size will need a 45/64 tap...Thats only 19.64ish mm...Something ain't right...:vash: (the threads must make up the difference I'm guessing)

but the next biggest tap size is too big...me so confused.

thats where my tape helped i could only pull in till the tape on the bit. enough time for the to let of the trigger and pull... even with the tape it yanked pretty good.