Old IHI BEGI kit (system 3)
 

Currently installing a beautiful used intercooled kit I bought for my 91.
It looks like an early Corky Bell IHI s3. This has been confirmed by Stephanie at BEGi by looking a pictures and appears to also be the same kit as the very early flyin miata kits.
Going to tune it with a used AEM standalone because the FMU and MSD freak me out a bit.
Anyone have experience with this kit?
Got any maps I could use as a starting point to save some dyno time?
Any tips, dos and dont's, advice on what to expect from the kit etc?
Also, is it worth the effort of swapping out the 1.8 injectors from my other car for the 1.6 injectors?
Bigger injectors are not in the cards right now unless I find a seriously killer deal on some.

1.6 injectors will tap out before you hit full boost. You need larger injectors, that's not an option. If you want to install the AEM and leave the FMU in place to boost fuel pressure, that's a viable option for now, but I would suggest getting a set of Rx7 injectors and having them cleaned/flowtested for a cheap injector option.

Standalones are not magic - you can't just slap a turbo in with the stock injectors and expect it all to work.

Do you have a wideband?

I realize they are not magic . I had planned to keep boost down only to what my injectors could handle initially which I figured was about 6 psi.
Can RX7 injectors be had pretty cheaply? What years would you suggest?
Yes. Have a Wideband.
Kind of ran out of financial gas and trying to save what I have for enough dyne to map a safe setup.

460's/550's can be had for 60-200 depending on your deal finding skills and whether they've been cleaned/flowtested or not


Throw everything on, throw on 1.8 injectors, bump up fuel with fmu to squeeze a bit more fuel out of em, probably get to 200whp and start saving up for injectors.

Boost is addicting.
Only old men and girls stay at 5psi for any significant period of time:)

I needz man turbo so I can run 25psizzzz. Really, PM this guy, he says he has 440's. https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/garrett-gt28-begi-cast-coated-manifold-begi-seperated-gases-downpipe-54529/

Get big injectors and be done. Since you sprung for an AEM instead of a megasquirt you must be loaded, so you can throw a few bills at injectors. Seriously though, 10 psi is my minimum now.

About 8psi intercooled is where I want be at this point. What's the cheapest injector I can get that will do this reliably without FPR? Already installed a walbro.
I can probably get something back money wise by selling the BEGi FMU and MSD that came with the kit.

I actually got the AEM used with the Wideband for 500 which I thought was a decent deal albeit not smoking.
Wish I were loaded though.
I'll pm the guy. Thanks.

:facepalm:


Go get supra 305's.
Go ahead.
Do it the stupid way.
Its your car.

That is a really good deal.

Sweet. Dude wants to sell the 440cc injectors for $80. Good deal?

Here comes the airplane....MRRRRRRRRRRRAHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAHHHHHHHHHH HHH THPPPTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTHTPPPPPOOOOOPPPPPPPPPP .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/315cc...Q5fAccessories

Those should be good for 8-10 psi.

I'm not really sure what to look for though.
Never bought injectors before.

What is the impedance. I just sold supra 440's and resistor pack for 85 or 90. I forget ask gospeed. If they are low impedance you need resistors or to adjust pulsewidth modulation,

Just txt him. He says they are rx7 low impedance pnp 440cc.
$80. Is this what I need? Good price?

You would need resistors. 10 ohm resistors on each injectors or a honda resistor pack for which i have a super awesome diagram. There may also be a setting or something in your aem (I dont know crap about those, search) where you can run low impedance injectors straight up.

Edit: Even though I am feeling mighty nice, you could post in the AEM forum and ask, or read the directions. I wont go that far for you.

I appreciate the help.
Where might I find this super awesome diagram?

In your pm box in a few minutes.

Thanks for the help.
Good diagram.

Head over to the Rx7 forums and ask for naturally-aspirated S5 NA FC injectors - they were in Rx7s from 89-91. You should be able to get a set for about $50. Send them to Witchhunter or InjectorRehab or someone like that - you should be able to have them cleaned and flowed for $16-18/injector. You end up with a fresh, clean set of 460cc injectors for right around $120 - I ran my first setup with an MSPNP, Rx7 460s and a Walbro 190 for quite a while (sold them for RC750s, then swapped the 750s for ID1000s). At stock fuel pressure, 460s and a Walbro will support fuel for ~240whp. 550s and a Walbro will do just under 300whp. Beyond that you should be doing ID725s or ID1000s.

If you don't run too much boost you can get stock 1.6 injectors to support up to 165ish whp. My friends 92 miata with a greddy kit, stock injectors, and an e-manage was running just fine at 168whp (dyno dynamics).

How does boost have anything to do with it?

Not sure what he meant but imagine that less boost = less demand for fuel.
It's still possible to keep the car from a lean condition on stock injectors running higher pressure up to a certain level right?

Boost is an arbitrary measurement of intake manifold restriction. It has absolutely nothing to do with how much fuel you need - if you make more power, you need more fuel.

1.6 injectors are marginal, and you'll run lean without the FPR. If you're pinched for cash, leave the FPR in place to raise the fuel pressure - increased fuel pressure is a perfectly legitimate way to add additional fuel. I use a Fuelabs FPR to raise base pressure to ~70psi in my own car.

Sorry sir, I was using boost thinking that the more boost you run the more power, therefore if he keeps the boost low and makes less power, he will not need larger injectors. Seemed simple to me. But clearly I am wrong and the amount of boost you run should have no bearing at all on what size injectors and fuelling you need.

Makes sense.
I have given this a lot of thought. I want to do this as "right" as possible and could use some input. Financially, I don't want to hit the wall and not have enough for "problems". Here is what I'm thinking;
I may just install the FMU, MSD and mehanical boost gauge that came with the kit and tune as per BEGi's instructions albeit quite conservatively. (retard base about 6 deg?)
I'll shelf the AEM (good deal) and drive around a few months at about 5psi to revaluate my drivetrain for possible work that needs to happen before bigger boost. I'll also take the time to change out my rear end which I have not yet done.
In the interim, I'll also be able to buy nice injectors, a COP setup and maybe one of those fancy AEM multi gauges with custom alarms for just about everything. Thoughts on a knock sensor anyone?
This way I can do the management installation and dyno tune all at once and milk maximum benefit out of the tune time.
How unsafe is this kind of scheme? Can the FMU and MSD be trusted in your experience?

Ditch the MSD and install your AEM - you can leave the FPR in place to bump the pressure on the 1.6 injectors, but the AEM will give you control over the curves as well as much more timing map control.

If you're using the FMU with a stock ECU to boost fuel, it's a bit of a bandaid, but the ECU will let you fine-tune the setup so that you get the most out of it - like I said, I run an FPR with my AEM. Ideally you would just use a larger injector, but there's nothing wrong with using small injectors and more fuel pressure - you won't leave any power or safety on the table going that route.

That does seem like a sensible solution. Trouble is, I'm not savvy enough to street tune an AEM myself. I'll turn wrenches all day long but computer tuning is out of my comfort zone.
If I pay what the shops in my area have asked to tune it on their dyno, I'll be tapping out my budget right now.
Cheapest offer I got was $380 if I bring a base map from BEGI.
They don't even have a base map for AEM, only MS.
I'm a little afraid of emptying my wallet because its my daily driver and a rear end catastrophe I cant afford to fix would really suck.
You still think the AEM should go in?

If the car runs safely for now, there's no harm in waiting a little bit.

Ladies and gentlemen!
 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56569483@N07/5450728349/
For whatever reason I can't get the pic to embed but here is a link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/56569483@N07/5450728349/
In the end, I had to lose the cartech FMU and stock injectors and replace them with RX8 injectors.
Its currently making 168 horses at the rear wheels and about 178 ft lbs of torque. this may sound quite wimpy to many of you 250 folks but the limiting factor in the tune is the point where the clutch starts to slip.
I can't really afford to do the clutch and 1.6 rear end right now so I'm staying right where I am and am quite content (for a while).
The car is SO much more fun and there is hardly any useable RPM beneath the point where boost is instantly available. All of my Super vs. Turbo woes were completely unfounded. I LOVE THIS THING and don't really understand why it did not come from the factory this way.

One question, is it normal to have a pretty pervasive gas smell when idling a turbo car at a stoplight? Does this mean I am running too rich even though the wideband says otherwise?

cool man i cant wait to get my r package turbo'd!

Tuning yourself is a hairy thing. Some can do it som can't. If you do try. start rich and low timing. Better to fry plugs than pistons.