One more oil drain line question...
 

So I rebuilt the head, got her running sweet in NA form and finally passed emissions, now I really want to get the Greddy installed in the next few weeks.

Here is what I have so far:

Stock Greddy kit (complete)
upgraded hardware for Greddy
manual boost controller
boost/vac gauge
aem wb 02
1.8 inj (installed)
Bipes (installed)
New fuel filter(installed)
New Plugs(installed)
FM heatshield
2.5 intercooler piping
VTA BOV
intercooler
K&N filter with adapter

I think thats it.

Am I missing anything for a basic 5psi install for now?

The final step is to get the oil drain line.

I would like to use hi temp silicone and use the stock fitting on the TD04

Can some one tell me what size to buy and what length.
Also what size barb for the oil pan and what size drill bit and tap.
Anything else needed for the drain line install?

Thanks for the help:bigtu:

I'd go with a half inch or more drain plug. You can get the heater bungs from Napa and other auto parts stores, or you can go to a hydraulic hose place and get fittings from them. Either way, you'll be able to find the correct thread pitch from the package or the retailer. From there, you can find the correct tap and that package will tell you what the correct drill bit size is.

Or you can call Flyin Miata and get the fitting, drill bit, and tap all in one shot.

The VTA bov will need to be plumbed back into the intake pipe, downstream of the AFM.

Thanks for the help. Do you know what size hose would slip onto the fitting on the td04? And what size fitting for the oil pan? Thanks again

The VTA bov might not need to be recirculated depending on what one it is. If it's a dual piston type - Bailey, Forge motorsport, then it shouldn't leak at idle. If it's not the dual piston type it will leak at idle unless you put a good quality check valve on it.

Either way if you run VTA on the stock ecu you will run rich in between shifts, some people report problems and hesitation others have no problem at all.

I used a 5/8" hose and a 1/2" fitting on the pan. If I were to do it again, I'd do a 5/8" fitting on the pan as well.

the fitting on the pan is 1/2", however the slip-on part is for a 5/8" hose......

Hey Bryce, I know I may have a problem with this VTA BOV, I just want to get everything up and running then if needed get a recirc BOV, this one is a a single piston, I had it on my blue 89 supra turbo before and had no problems on that car...

Thanks, so if i buy a length of 5/8" I.D. hose and a 5/8 fitting i should be ok?

Thanks Braineack, I should probably just measure it myself, but you are saying that the stock drain fitting is 5/8"?

you need a 1/2"NPT to 5/8" Slip-on fitting........................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................it can be found for $4-5 at advance auto.

You can't really use the stock greddy drain pipe to connect a hose to the oil pan. It curves too sharply towards the driver side fender to bend a hose downward without it kinking, believe me I tried. The reason it does this is because it's supposed to be route around the front of the engine to the other side where there’s a plugged oil port you connect to.

You can get one of these:

http://www.projectzum.com/images/F7T16D-5.jpg

(That’s just an example; it has nothing to do with the Miata or the greddy turbo)

Then screw in another 1/2" NPT fitting, and connect a length of 5/8" hose to either one.

your other option is to cut off the curved pipe on the stock greddy oil drain flange, and either weld on a small piece of 5/8" straight pipe, or drill and tap the hole to accept the same 1/2" NPT fitting as the oil pan. This is probably the easiest since you'll already have the right drill and tap from tapping the pan. However I've never done this, and its possible it won't work because the hole might be too big. Although its taper thread, so it might not matter. I'd have to measure.

Ok, because you’re a newb and you don’t know any better, I did you a favor and just went out and measured. The hole in the stock Greddy turbo oil drain flange is .593”, and a ½” NPT tap calls for a 45/64 drill, which is around .703” so you could just cut off the pipe, drill it out with a 45/64 drill, and then tap it with the ½” NPT tap. Although, the flange is only 1.006” wide, so you’d only have .1515” on either side once you drilled, which wouldn’t be a whole lot. It could work but it might be too weak, especially once you tried to tighten the fitting into it.

I just have the Greddy flange sitting in my tool box, someday when I’m lazy I might try this, it’d be a free replacement, should anything go wrong with the one I have.

You could use this http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

and this
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

If you wanna go with a nice flange up at the turbo
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

I went and bought some 3/4 ID heater hose ran it to my 1/2" tap in the oil pan. That sharp curve that you speak of went to home depo got some liquid coper weld and 2 1/2" coper bends that they use for plumping. Liquid coper welded them together and made a nice downward bend with no Kink it it. Grabbed two screw clamps and bam insta curve with no kink.



Kinda like Pops did on his webpage... cant find it anymore but yeah it works great and the 1/2" coper bend can flow a ton of water from my sink so i figure it can flow plenty of oil.

Thanks for the help guys.

I am trying to decide on the hose and flange that Wideopen is suggesting, is there any way to reuse the oil drain flange on the greddy as is or maybe heat it up and bent it a bit?

How about this link

http://www.jgsturbo.com/index2.html

part number TA005 under "turbo accessories and adapters" is for a T04, is that compatible with the TD04H?

If not I will probably go with the silicone hose and slip on fittings

I have heard that silicone with oil will break down after time, how long are we talking? Is it anything to worry about?

Thanks

stop typing and read what we've posted.

I listed two possible ways to reuse the greddy flange, and then Lunatic posted a third.

(great idea btw Lunatic, I did the same for a week or two with a small piece of rubber hose connecting the brass 90* elbow, never trusted it so I got an adaptor plate, wish I woulda thought of liquid copper welding)

yeah i took two 45's and made them a big turn then pointed it downward and worm clamped the shit out of both ends =D

that JGS one works too. Rubber or Silicone will break down after a bit but you are looking at years. also if it does fail it takes like 5 minutes to replace the hose.

dont buy the T04 unit...it wont fit your greddy turbo, get the TD05 one.

So, reading this I'm getting the impression that if I tap the pan to use the different oil return location then I will need to modify the outlet from the turbo itself? Ugh. I hadn't seen that mentioned anywhere in here before. I bought the 1/2 NPT to 5/8 fitting for the pan and some hose to connect it up, but nothing to modify the drain off the turbo.