Over heating when boosting
 

I installed the begi s kit on my car over the weekend, the car ran alittle hot when i was testing it but i didnt boost it very much. On my way home from work lastnight i boosted for a few seconds in 3rd gear and some coolant seemed to spray on my windshield i pulled over and it seems to be leaking/ or spraying under boost from the cap. Could i have the coolant lines to the turbo backwards? it seems to consume alittle coolant too i had to top the radiator off lastnight. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks Greg

no such thing as backwards water lines. they can be hooked up whichever way you want.


Sounds like a blown headgasket or something along those lines.

If you're pressurising your cooling system to the point of it overwhelming your cap (assuming cap is not broken) and consuming coolant, then I hate to say it, but you have bigger problems to worry about.

What he ^^ said, but I would start with replacing the cap.
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Stop boosting

this

Could i possibly need a coolant reroute? could it be from removing the hose going to the heater core to waterpump exit housing (i'm not sure what it is called its on the drivers side of the block and one of the coolant hoses for the turbo connect to it)? it was removed by a "friend" of mine when we were installing saturday night how claim it would be fine without it it wont have heat, i justified it by the fact i dont drive the car anytime but nice weather.

What?!
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If coolant is spraying onto your windshield then you obviously have a leak some where. There is no way anyone can tell you where over the internet. Idle the car in your driveway until its at operating temp, then look around the engine bay for a leak. Have some one rev the engine while you look around.

P.S. I am not responsible if you burn yourself.
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I believe its leaking from the cap it only does so when i boost. It does not leak at all at idle it runs perfect in the middle of the operating temp zone.When i boost the temp rises fast and sometimes it purges coolant on to the windshield. I have no idea, could that hose being taking out cause that problem?

Two words:

Pressure test.

/\This.
Compression test and inspecting the plugs will tell you a LOT about your engines health.

Unless its a very unique weird leak I just don't see it NOT leaking at all out of boost and leaking ONLY in boost.

I replaced the plugs lastnight i gapped the the stock NGks to .035 and i compression tested the motor before the turbo the were from the bumper back 210 200 205 and 205 so the motor is def health im serious ive looked at it running at idle up on a lift i have no idea why its over heating or where its coming from

Are you sure it's overheating, because it sounds more like it's getting pressurized. What's your water temp gauge doing when this is happening?

C

My temp gauge spikes fast when i boost but if i let off the throttle it comes right back down to normal temp its weird. What do you mean by pressurized im very interested?

I'm thinking combustion gas pressurizing the cooling system, as in a leaking headgasket.

C

How is coolant making it from your engine bay to your windshield first? what massive hole is it exiting from to get to your windshield? (Hint: unless it is a hood vent directly behind the radiator, you've got another cooling issue to worry about)

Read the noob stickies, noob. There are a few tips in and among them that you can follow to VASTLY IMPROVE our ability to help you. What I'm saying is "help us help you". What the hell is "Tri-State Area" anyways? Do you realize that whenever two states share a border, and that border hits another '3rd' state, there is a "Tri-State Area"? You didn't really think your "Tri-State Area" was unique, did you? If you put something down like "Newport, Kentucky", you might have a knowledgeable expert that's 10 minutes away offer to come help you diagnose your issue.

Finally, with regards to your heater core:

1. You make it sound like your friend just randomly pulled the hoses without rerouting anything.
2. We know that '1' above isnt true, otherwise you wouldn't have a motor. Was the hose rerouted from the rear of the block to the hard line that runs underneath the exhaust manifold to the coolant mixing manifold?
3. Without the heater core in that loop, there's little to no restriction on that coolant passage. This can be BAD. This means that when the engine is hot, less coolant will travel through the radiator because it's easier just to go through your akward reroute.
4. If you haven't been experiencing any problems with your heater core (I'd be almost willing to bet that your buddy rerouted because you crushed the copper tubes when you tried to take the hoses off in the first place), restore the hose routing to the previous configuration.

<It's not coolant thats getting onto your windshield, it's the nitrous intercooler spray that your buddy installed and didnt tell you about, but it's ending up on your windshield and not on your intercooler because he neglected to put the black plastic undertray back on after installation>

It is the stock head gasket with 146 k on it makes sense i guess i got to tear it down again im have to do a pressure test on the cooing system first. I thought it was the head gasket but i really was hoping it wasnt. ugh going to be another fun weekend.

Heed Fooger's advice about the coolant hoses, it's important.

And if it turns out you did blow the headgasket in such short order, how much boost are you running?

C

The coolant hose that was removed was a hard metal line that travels underneath the turbo manifold, do you know the name of this piece so i can purchase it? Im Poughkeepsie NY, your right i shouldnt assume that everyone know what the tristate area mean.... its not like when you type it in to google the first thing to come up is "The Tri-State Region is commonly used in the area surrounding New York City to refer to the greater metropolitan area, including satellite cities. Roughly speaking, the New York Tri-State area encompasses the populated areas in the states of New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut" But im changing my profile now. And im guessing its not the most functional reroute for the coolant but he works for toyota so what can you expect lol.
-Greg

Im running 5 psi but i havent boost til redline yet because of this problem i think the boost creeps up to 10 but ill deal with that problem once i figure out this cooling issue.

:facepalm:
I'm going to now tell you to undo all the stupid shit your "friend" did first, before diagnosing any other problems.

NOT a compression test, a PRESSURE test. Testings the cooling system...

^^ This is your problem, and this is why you are loosing coolant. You have completely taken the radiator bypass out of the coolant system. Your engine coolant stays cold, your thermostat stays closed. At high RPM, your water pump is trying to push A LOT of fluid through the 2mm hole in the thermostat. Your coolant is pressurizing something extreme. (And definitely unsafe for your head gasket) Look for where your friend capped off the heater line. That is where you are losing water. Drain the oil and make sure it's not milky.

Parts:
E301-15-287 O-Ring (For metal pipe to mixing manifold connection)
BPE8-15-290 Pipe, Bypass (Metal Pipe)
NA75-61-211 Hose No.1, Water (Head to heater core)
NA75-61-212 Hose No.2, Water (Heater core to metal pipe)

I'm not sure I've ever seen a Toyota Miata, usually they're Mazdas ;) He doesn't work in throttle pedal design, does he?


Edit: P.S., for posterity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tri-state_area

Looks like fooger just won this thread:D

you're right, but a compression test wouldn't hurt either.
(just trying to cover up the fail:D)

Fooger thats what it is the pressure broke the radiator cap i ordered the parts from Mazda they will be here thursday! I appreciate the help dudes, i really hope i didn't blow my head gasket i only drove maybe 10 miles while i was testing it.

How many g's are you boosting?

Well done on ordering parts. I still have a concern though, because your radiator cap shouldn't be under any unusual pressure if I'm correct...If your radiator IS indeed under unusually high pressure, then you have something blocking coolant passage between your lower radiator hose and your water pump. I would suspecting your mixing manifold in this situation. How exactly did your Toyota friend go about capping the mixing manifold when he removed the metal heater core return pipe?

im boosting 5 psi he capped the the hose coming out of the heater core return at the end of the rubber section.Then we put a cap on the coolant inlet tube

After looking at the cooling diagram it is not good im glad i didnt drive it to far.

How about how many gs ($$$) do you have in your boost?

The kit was 1500 i had the ms that was 550 so alittle over 2gs and a act clutch i got second hand for 200.

Cryswht93N/A,

Dude, I can't read your posts. The lack of punctuation is driving me insane. One more thing, when you use I when referring to yourself, it needs to be capitalized.

Pressure testing your radiator with a possible head gasket issue is a good way to hydrolock your engine.

Do a leakdown test with the rad cap off and see if you get any bubbles. No need to go crazy with the psi, regulate your feed down to about 20 psi and go from there.

Or...pull the cap off and start the engine. Watch the radiator opening and rev it up. If you get coolant flowing out like a bitch, you've got a bad headgasket.

On another note, you got your kit already?:fawk:

I received the kit a week ago, the only thing missing was the tap I order. Im happy with it, I had the hose replaced today and the dealership said its fine. It runs good, does NOT overheat anymore. I still have to get it tuned better....

The Mazda dealer is fixing your turbo Miata? Any comments from them?

C