Pop my cherry
 

So after test driving a mazda miata I'm thinking about getting one. One of the first things I would like to do is the chinacharger base kit from bell. I'm new to turbos(more of a n/a guy) and my understanding after researching is that with a kit that has 5-6 psi there is almost no tuning involved. I understand that bell supplies a fpr for the return line. Now do I have to raise the pressure at the rails also or is the fpr on the return line self adjusting. I KNOW it's recommended to get some type of management system but that will be later on in the future. Basically what I'm asking is that is this kit bolt on and go with maybe some tuning with the fpr to get a 14.7 a/f ratio. I do plan on getting the o2 signal modifier just not sure I need anything else. And after looking through a lot of your posts I already know somehow you smart asses are going to get on me lmao but that's ok. Thanks in advance.

Popped.
FPR should always be tuned. You won't be at 14.7 in boost, that would be asking to blow a motor. You'll be tuning closer to 12:1 or richer most likely with the FPR's adjustability for safety. Especially without an intercooler to cool charge temps on the base kit.
I personally recommend saving a little more dough and going intercooled with proper engine management right off the bat as it will save you a lot of headache but you probably won't listen.

Welcome to the Thunderdome.

haha, you did your homework.

I have a feeling this site can answer some of your questions:

Miata Turbo FAQ: Welcome to the Miata Turbo FAQ

cjernigan your probably right I don't want to settle. Just a little confused on the megasquirt because it is the first time hearing about it. Is it a map program? If you are familiar with the power commanders for bikes is it similar to that? Are there set maps for certain combination of mods that can be downloaded or is it 100% custom tuning? Lastly, is it easy to use because it doesn't look that way lol (little intimidated). Thanks for the site cardriverx.

The Megasquirt is a completely standalone EMS (electronic management system) . It allows you full control of all of your car's functions. It can also be hooked up as a piggyback controlling some aspects of your car's operation and leaving others (such as A/C control, etc) up to the car's own computer. If your car is a 96 or older, I would suggest you install it as a standalone.

There are a few threads on tuning with a Megasquirt here.

I suggest you read the FAQs. It will give you a much better idea about your future path.

The name "Megasquirt" can be confusing, people read too much into the name because it's kind of funny... but it's just an engine computer with a funny name. Power Commanders typically splice into the stock ECU, right... a piggyback. MS can do this, but is more commonly used as a full standalone. Unplug stock ECU, plug in MS, turn key.

An important fact we're missing is which year Miata you are looking at. There are a lot of things to consider in your purchase because you've got an immense amount of used for sale and finding good condition vehicles more than 10yrs old is getting tougher.

I'll assume you want one of the first generations with the pop-up headlights, 90-97? If so, reseach the hundreds of threads around here titled "Which Miata" or "What year" or with the words "Choice" or "question"... and get a feel for the differences in the years. Basically, the 90-93 have a 1.6 motor with a weak differential and small'ish brakes. 94-95 uses a 1.8 OBD1 motor with strong dif and bigger brakes. 96-97 steps up to OBDII. If you're looking for the best platform to start out with from a performance standpoint, and will be the "easiest" to modify... look for a 94-95 with Torsen differential, good maintenance records, and your favorite color.

Turbocharging the 90-97's are almost identical processes, so from a "making power" standpoint, it's all the same.

Get the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell and read it cover to cover to bring yourself up to speed on turbo theory... if you're going to be running bandaids for awhile, it's gold.

A stock 94-95 makes about 105-110whp in good shape... maybe a little more if your setup is strong. Making 150-160whp is brainless with a basic non-intercooled turbo setup.

Ok well I think I understand the megasquirt a little easier now. The car I was looking at is a 1996. You said that the better platform to start out with are the years 94-95. Is the 1996 not ideal because of the ODBII or are there others factors?

Just odb2 if you need it to get a tag in your locale. Otherwise they are equivalent.

fag

just buy my car :)