prepping for the greddy
 

So there I am, getting my engine ready for the greddy. I am pretty well mechanically gifted, and I was changing the timing belt and the water pump out. I was making record timing (about 1.5 hrs) and now I cannot get the water pump out.:vash: It will move and jiggle, but will not come out. I have never said so many curse words in my life. Also, I am afraid that the cams might have moved a little bit. I did the wrench on each camshaft and a pair of vise grips to hold the two, but released tension for just a second to get it ready to go back to sleep after a long hard day of working on it. Is there some way to do check for this now while the motor is torn apart. Also, if any of you guys are out here in hawaii, or maybe know someone, can you tell me. Maybe they will have more experience with this and maybe give some advice and the such. Anyways, sorry for just blabbing on and on, but my f-ing back hurts and just want to get some advice. Thanks in advance and aloha, Steve.

Just making sure, did you remove the two bolts on the right side of the water pump attaching it to the tube on the side of the engine and not just the bolts attaching it to the block?

As for the timing belt, you can just make sure that the E mark on the exhaust cam notch lines up with the E mark on the block, the I mark on the intake cam notch lines up with the I mark on the block, and the crank notch is dead center at 12 o clock when you put the TB on. Then after you put the belt on, rotate the engine several revolutions and make sure that everything stays lined up the same way when the crank notch is at 12 o clock again. There should also be 19 teeth between the cams. See pic for reference.

So there should be 19 teeth on the timing belt between the exact 12oclock of the sprockets, is that what you mean. Oh yes, Thank you very much for the help. I was about to go incredible hulk on my car. Also the water pump bolts on the side, you mean the ones that go to the heater core and everything,, I was just trying to slide it out with everything (after it was all unbolted of course. I will give that a try when I get off work today. They don't give enough room on these cars when you have meat hooks.

If you look at the attached picture there are two E/I marks (one lined up witht he marks on the block and one pointing up) on the corresponding cams so when one mark on the cam is aligned with the marks on the block the other is close to 12 o'clock. There should be 19 teeth between the line associated with the E/I marks pointing up (not sure if they are exactly at 12 o clock.)

Just to be clear, the E mark on the block should line up with the notch (valley, whatever you want to call it) associated with the E on the cam, not the tooth (peak), whereas when counting teeth on the belt, you are counting between the marked teeth. I hope that makes sense.

on the 1.6, it's easier to remove the cam pulleys and the backing plate in order to remove the waterpump.

Ok, the thing that is worrying me is that my cam gears were just a little bit off before, so I lined up the exhaust cam when I was putting it at tdc. The intake came gear however was about a tooth off of where it was supposed to be. The question is, should I go ahead and put the cam gears like they sould be for the belt change, or just leave them the way that they were when I found them. If this has happened to you guys, please tell me and give me some feedback so that I do not have to degree my cams in. Thanks, Steve

OK, so I got the water pump off and am getting ready to do the timing belt, and wanted to make sure that I am at tdc on the crank. I saw the little notch in the timing belt pulley, and was wondering if when that is straight up, is that at tdc, or am I going to have to find tdc the other way, sticking something in the #1 cylinder sparkplug hole and find it that way.

I would stick something in the cylinder to verify TDC

Cool Thanx, I will go give it a try and hopefully, crossing fingers.

Hey, it is me again, I was checking if the timing belt pulley on the crank is going to move freely, independant of the crank when the crank pulley is not on there. I am use to pushrod motors that the crank does not move freely like this one just did. Thanx, Steve. So, I guess my real question, since I am an idiot and just went out there took another look, is if the timing belt pulley on the crank actually has some control feature and does it matter which teeth on that pulley I install the timing belt on.

Just an update, always use new and higher quality hardware. I was almost all done with the installation, and when I was refilling the radiator, noticed a leak. So, I got down there and noticed that it was coming from the side of the water pump. So, I got down there and tightened the bolt up and then it sheared. Right in the new water pump. So, now I have to go get a new water pump and hardware and redo it all tommorrow and friday. But I did get to start it up and it purred like a kitten for the few seconds that it was running. The good thing that came out of this is that I can now do this job in about 2 hours. Just goes to show me for trusting old hardware. Anyways, Anybody know the size of the bolts for the water pump, I am going to just use new grade 8 hardware this time.

Good job on getting the job done, even if you have to do it again. I will be doing all that maintanence this winter myself. I'll take your advice and get new hardware. As for the pulley being off a tooth, I think you just found your first gear lug you talked about in your earlier post. Keep at it. It will get done eventually, and you will enjoy every second of it.

Thanks man. Also, I was going to see if you or somebody else knows that bolt size so that I can get it done. Or maybe, you would know if home depot would be able to get the right size. It really sucks because I have to get a new water pump. The job really wasn't all that bad. If you haven't done it yet, just count the # of teeth on the timing belt and you can get it right on the first time, instead of redoing it.