Question about Greddy kit with I/C and full exhaust.
 

Guys,

Just wondering, if I install the base Greddy system with the Bipes and add an I/C and full exhaust, would I need to change anything else?

Thanks

Would you "need" to? No, assuming you don't up the boost. Although, to take full advantage of the exhaust and IC, you'd need to change the fueling system for sure. Could be as simple as a lower ratio disk for the Vortech, a fuel pump, and some tan-top 1.8 injectors.

Get you some 1.8 injectors and a better fuel pump and up the boost to around 10psi, and enjoy smoking many a car that you shouldn't be smoking in a Miata.

Thanks,

Won't the boost go up just by changing the exhaust and adding an I/C?
I am thinking of running 10 psi. I have the 1.8 inj but maybe i'll need to find a fuel pump and change the vortech. How would i know if i need all 3?
Would a WB tell me or a fuel pressure gauge?

THanks

Throw the fuel equations in the diy faq into excel and play aorund with it to see what sorts of fuel pressures you'd need with the 1.8 injectors for various levels of boost. Get an idea of the disc you'd need for the Vortech, and whether you'd need a pump. Unfortunately, with a Vortech you have a very discretized tuning range via the different discs, so a wideband will show you that you're having problems, but you won't have the ability to fix it very well. 10 psi is pretty high for guess-work.

The boost is still running off the wastegate, so it will vent at 5.5psi, but you'll hit boost faster with the exhaust. The IC will cause a loss of boost at the manifold, but increased air due to the cooling, so you should actually make more power cause of the denser charge. You need to upgrade to a AFPR or re-disc the Vortech and get a better fuel pump to up the boost and/or change to 18 injectors. Reason: the Vortech has the 12:1 ratio disks in it, so upping to 10psi will raise the fuel pressure 120psi from the base (48 I believe). Not good on ANY pump, and the stock one will take a crap long before you hit that. So you need to keep the fuel pressure within reasonable limts, I consider 90psi the max I want to run. So changing the disks will change that ratio, keeping the fuel pressure down, but you still need more fuel. You need either an injector controller, so you can lengthen the pulse, and/or larger injectors to get more fuel on less pressure. I chose to go with an AFPR and Injector Controller so I can run 8-10psi on the stock injectors, and still keep it close to 90psi max fuel pressure. So using a fuel pressure guage will ensure you are not exceeding your limit.

It's always a good idea to have a WB, so you can make sure you aren't gonna blow your motor, and do some tuning without having to pay for it.

Did I forget anything?