Recent Turbo Purchase, advice
 

hi guys, ive been reading up quite a bit since i just purchased a turbo kit from someone over on cr.net. heres a list of the stuff that came with it.

Greddy Turbo with manifold, downpipe, and oil lines
Heatshield (which just got re-welded)
Starion Intercooler with Jim's Pipes (HKS flange) and all rubber couplings
HKS SSQ BOV
Autometer Boost Guage
Autometer Air/fuel Guage
RC 440cc Injectors
Turbo XS " dual stage" manual boost controller with switch(to turn from hi-->low boost)
AEM Dry Air Filter(NEW)

ive been consulting with someonel on this forum via pms, and he recommended bring these questions up on miataturbo.net in order to get more input.

so the only things i needed in order to complete it are engine management and a bigger fuel pump to handle the 440 injectors.

i don't exactly have that much of a budget to pick up an emanage right now, so i was thinking i might just run the setup with everythign listed except the fuel upgrade components.

my main questions would b, what is going to be a safe boost to run with just the intercooler and everything else in the kit and what would be a worthy upgrade while im just running this set up ? just bipes ? or should i just save the $225 from the bipes and put it toward an emanage ? turbo kit should b coming in near the end of the week.

Scott

good now that you're here read my faq.

first off like I said the injectors will be a bit too large to idle with without a piggyback or replacement ecu.

however you should have no trouble running on stock injectors with low boost (5psi). You still want to get yourself a larger fuel pump to ensure you can reach desired fuel pressure levels. A walbro 190hp is only around $85.

now one thing you could think about doing is buying Tom's (Brgracer) rx7 afm and 305cc injectors. Coupling this with a 6:1 FMU disc and you should be able to run 9-10psi no problem (with the 190HP FP of course).

Or buy his EMB unit for a piggyback and you might be able to idle those 440cc injectors.

Anyways, yes, you have the basis of a nice kit, now you need to worry about fuel/spark.

Save the money and get the emange. You'll be much, much happier in the long run. With everything you have now, - the injectors you could probitily run the car at 6psi, maybe 7 but thats pushing it for no timing. Even if you did get the bipes, you still could only run the car at a max of mybe 8psi because the stock computer cant handle the 440cc injectors. Unless maybe you got an RX-7 AFM.

i think i might go with a similar setup to brain's. i really like the idea of not fooling with a ecu and just doing most the tunning with the bipes and rx7 maf.

so what kind of injectors shoud i be on the lookout for ? instead of using the 440cc ones ?

so my new shopping list would b:
-smaller then 440cc injectors but larger then stock
- bipes acu
- rx7 maf ($50 at local pick and pull)
- walbro 195 or 225 ?

and i should b set ? another question concerning exhaust... im running stock with a straight pipe. recommendations ? 2.5" or 3" ? tonydp ? and 2.5" all the way ? what kinda catback ? i really like the apexi n1....

thanks again guys.

I would be on the look out for some 305cc off the supra. You can pick a set up no problem for under $100. And I would go with the Walbro 195. My personal choice for an exhaust (what I'm curently running) is a 2.5 downpipe, 2.5 test pipe, and a 2.5 turbo Enthuza catback. Now, my car is registered in Michigan and we have no emissions which is why I can run an open 2.5 back. I'm not shure where your from so I really cant tell you what you should run and what you shouldnt. Regardless, I really love my Enthuza and so do many others. Here is a link to their site:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/dealoftheday/index.php

which year supra ? and what size are the supra injectors ? can i find them at the junkyard?

Read Braineack's FAQ... It's all in there and very helpful.

I have to say though, plenty of people "Down Under" run the stock 1.6L fuel pump up to about 10psi of boost, without problems. It does have to be working well, but with stock pressure and larger injectors you are fine. I'm going to run the 305cc supra injectors that I found on eBay for US$50 delivered to Australia.

megasquirt if u want the most functionality for the least price. takes a bit of reading but its rather straight forward once you do it

Like most newbs around here, you're far too focused on how much boost you can run. First, pick a horsepower goal. If the goal is to make as much as possible on the least amount of money, that only helps a little. But if you say, I want to see 170rwhp, what do I need?... then we can tell you what to buy to get there.

A base Greddy will see you about 145rwhp... with the intecooler and the stock Greddy FPR (which I don't see listed) you should be able to "safely" push 6psi without a Bipes and keep running the stock injectors for about 150-155rwhp. You wouldn't even need a Bipes at that point, just retard your base timing.

The next upgrade to 7psi and 160rwhp level would be a Bipes.
The next upgrade to 8psi and 170rwhp would probably be a new fuel disc for the Greddy FPR and 1.8 injectors (no need to go bigger cc's yet and you can still run the stock MAF so no dealing with idle issues.)

To push past that and not be playing with yourself, you'll need to think about ditching the stock Greddy DP and going with something else. A more efficient DP will probably see you a 5-10rwhp gain with no change in Boost. Past that upgrade, of course the stock exhaust is the next thing holding you back. You can source exhausts pretty cheap in the classifieds here and at m.net.

I'd ditch that turboXS "dual stage" boost controller. You won't be running anywhere near the amount of boost to need it. Sell it off and build youself a $15 Home Depot model.

Oh yah, and have you read Brains FAQ and my build thread here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4455

PS, I caveat all this info with "I'm don't have a Greddy."
But the point about choosing a "HP goal" and not a boost goal should be key to your upgrade path.

hey guys, thanks a bunch for all the useful post
esp. samnavy, i think you pretty much pinned me on my newbie ambitions and i understand your concept of setting a goal then obtaining it with the helpful guidance of you guys = )

i think in the next week or so ill try to acess my financial status and figure how exactly how much hp im looking for in this car before talking about boost numbers.

once again thanks alot guys, and thanks for sending me here brain ! its been very helpful.

ps. i have read your faq.... i feel like i dork now. didn't really need to ask all those questions that i did.

hmm,, i just noticed that in the list too.... maybe he forgot to list it... im goign to msg him today about it.

Scott

turbo is in ! advice needed..
 

hey guys, looks like i got the turbo in today. but it seems im already running into problems before i even installed it ! -_-

the setup looks great with a few exceptions, the previous owner used a standalone ecu it seems. so when he was running his intake it appears that he didn't have to use the stock MAF.... heres the photo..

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...cc_048_439.jpg

this is how i mocked it up in the kitchen.. same set up i think

Attachment 217270

very short and compact, i like it alot...but i think i will be needing the stock maf....any ideas for mounting it ? i just threw it on there with an cone filter adapter plate...but it looks like a freaking harpoon and i don't think it will fit under the hood....

Attachment 217271

i noticed other peoples setups along with the greddy one that pulls air from the stock location behind the wheel and in front of the brake master cylinder...but i don't have the piping to do that... can i jus pick some generic 45 or 90 degree pipes to adjust for that ?

one more question concerning the oil drain...im not too keen on tapping the oil pan right now, and i was thinking about just running the oil return to the location noted in the greddy installation on the passenger side ? anything major to worry about ? besides not enough downhill flow, kinks, etc etc ?

thanks ahead for the input.

Scott

:rly: Oh wow, your the guy that bought my friends turbo kit

heh, yea. any advice buddy ? = ) wanna tell me whats wrong with it now ? lol j/k

did you ever ride in his car before he pulled it ?

Set it up the way greddy does it with an elbow.

Nope, it ran good and healthy. Yes i've ridden in his car before, it had a link ECU.


This what your asking for?

why who cares?

Scott, nobody is keen on tapping it. Is there anything else to worry about other than poor drainage? No, that's it. Just easily avoided poor drainage.

No worries, most (myself included) go through this stage of avoidance.

Tap it.

;)

This Scott is keen on it.

I love doing it! I've done 4 now.

yea i guess, i actually don't like that setup too much -_-. i liked the straight filter on the turbo, but i guess it can't be avoided unless i spend more money on a standalone...

if i decide to setup the turbo that way, where can i find piping like that one.

oh and scott will you be visiting lovely Reno, Nevada anytime soon ? swing by and tap my oil pan = P

Scott

no, but i would like to hang out in the casinos.

Such good info from you guys! I learn more and more each time I'm on this site (obviously). Thanks!

Maybe I should look for an RX7 AFM...

my friend works for the silver legacy, ill have him comp you a flight out here. lol

well, looks like i begin work on this bad boy today. ill keep you guys posted when i screw everything up and came back inside crying.

Scott

ahaha i just started laughing outloud... this is sooo wrong on so many levels... lol

reminds me of the time i was at "a club" in reno and one of the employees took off her furry bra and put it on my head.

strange things happen when a buddy dates a stripper.

like random rashes developing?

FWIW, you can run a filter and AFM straight off the turbo, but you have to keep everything as short as possible and it's a tight fit. Furthermore, you'll have to put a small bung on the AFM for the crankcase breather as there will be no other place for it. It's tight as hell and I had to remove the hood lift stick b/c it smashed the filter. Here's a link to one pic when I was messing around with a heat shield: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1154025987

I just uploaded a side view of a short intake to my vb garage set

hey, thanks alot guys. i was shopping for some silicone tube today and decided to make something similar to that setup u posted brgracer. i think i might get a smaller filter or a mushroom style one, where it won't stick foreward too much.

i think i got everything mostly mocked up today, pulled the headers, afm and all that jazz. i'd keep working but, im outside without a garage in fall in Reno. -_-

oh, another question... does ne1 have a photo of the stock greddy oil return nipple ? i can't seem to find it... (i decided to go with the greddy oil return, until i get back to california where ill hopefully tap the pan)

one more question ! the starion intercooler...there are some brackets on it, but i don't think ill b able to fit that bad boy up in there with ac condenser and dryer.....

you guys think i should remove the AC ? when i bought the car it wasn't working... i was looking at all the pipes i have to remove if i decided on taking it out... and it looks like it will make alot of room for the intercooler and the piping going to the turbo. one question on removing the Ac is the 2 tubes that go into the firewall... do i cut and cap them ? and will ac coolant come spewing out if i start removing the ac stuff ?

Scott

it'll fit, just not centered.

oil return port is just below the oil filter to the right.

thanks scott, guess ill jus mount it off-center. and i found the oil nipple thing, mine was camoflauged in oil and dirt so i couldn't see it.


Scott

For the A/C. You need to have the system bled at a shop prior to taking anything off. Check on a sticker under the hood to see if you have R134 or Freon. Most A/C shops will empty your system for free. It takes about 5 minutes. Go down to Joe's Tune-Up Shop or some dive local auto-repair, don't bother with a name brand place like Pep-Boys, they charge $40. DON'T DO IT YOURSELF. Take it to pro's.

PM me your email and I'll send you the A/C removal PDF document. It's pretty easy, just start unbolting shit until it's all out. Those tubes going through the firewall on the passenger side are to the evaporator unit that actually does the cooling. It's in the passenger footwell. Might as well take it out too... but when you do, you need to replace the Evaporator Unit Box with a tube that connects the blower motor also in the passenger footwell with the rest of the vents. It's a $40 dealer part. There's no harm in leaving the evaporator in there... but then just get some rubber plugs avail at any autoparts store.

more problems arise as i play with this thing... what do u guys think i should do ? i bought it from Brad over on the Cr.net forums... NA3Turbo.

Attachment 217251

Attachment 217252

he didn't mention this at all... let alone the sheared bolts that i had to get pulled out.

btw, i paid 1,250 dollars for this kit as listed above without the hks bov which i bought later...for this much heart ache i rather have just bought a stock greddy kit or pieced one together myself with miataturbo.net's advice.

Scott

almost done !
 

alright guys ! huge update. i went and got the manifold rewelded and repaired, and figured out that i pretty much had all the parts i needed to install everything now. so i worked on it tonight.

heres some photos of my progress. any advice or critiques are rgeatly appreciated. I havn't started it up yet, i plan on it tomorrow afternoon.

Attachment 217245

Attachment 217246

Attachment 217247

Attachment 217248


ok so my questions.

1. I have an HKS bov, it has a little nipple on the back of it for maybe a vaccum line or something ? where can i T it to? or what do i T it to? it came with 2 T fittings and a little hose clamp.

2. I obviously can't use the Turbo XS MBC that came with my kit, so unless the previous owner messed with the wastegate thing i should be set at the sotck greddy boost ?

3. My boost gauge and a/f gauge that came with the kit are sitting inside. The boost needs a hot and a ground and a little hose fitting to somewhere, where should i tap in for boost readings ? Also the a/f gauge, has a hot and ground and a purple wire. where do i tap in for the a/f readings ? (i read somewhere about a red/blue stripped wire off the ecu, can i tap that ?)

4. My o2 sensor wire is wayy too short, can i simply splice it ? and add wire to it ? (14 gauge ok ?)

5. After i finish all these things up, what should i do before i start up the car and drive it around ? (i changed the oil and checked my coolant, both are fine)

Thanks again,
Scott