So what else b4 I finally go turbo?
 

Well, a miata FI newbie here finally getting close to be ready for Greddy turbo.

So far I've done

plug/wire/coil pack
valva cover/cas o ring gasket
KYB AGX with junk springs
home made butterfly brace
RB F/R sways
(also got a/f, egt/water temp/oil temp/oil pressure/boost gauge from my other car)

on my '90 classic red.

motor was rebuilt at 205K (currently 209K) with new water pump/thermostat/radiator/head gasket.

This car will mainly be used for pleasure driving on country roads and such.

The question is... with 209K miles on body, should I first get the roll bar/cage if I'm putting just a basic greddy kit w/ ic and fuel/ECU upgrade? My goal is to get around 150rwhp. I was thinking about changing the bushing but rubber seems to be in excellent condition.

Any advise/criticism is welcomed:) Thanks!

a nice clutch and rear end

Shouldent need a clutch or rear end with 150WHP.
Maby a spec stage II to be safe.

Just make sure you do the basic prep for the greddy kit!
-Mani relief cuts
-Upgrade your mani and DP bolts NOW! Or suffer later! Trust me.
-Its always nice to tap your oil pan.

What are you planing for fuel/ecu for 150WHP?
Have you looked into the MegasquirtPNP?

I was thinking of a new clutch but figured might as give it a try and if it starts to slip, I can always get a new one.

As of mani and dp bolts upgrade, I wasn't thinking about it.... I'll start the research. Oh.. and oil pan, I'm just going to take it to a shop to get it tapped for maybe $10 at most.

Fuel management, I was planning to use emanage since I have experience w/ em but megasquirt sounds interesting.

BTW I like your Hogan pic! Try looking for Socko energy drink! They got Hulk Hogan can and it taste damn good!

HAHA, Thanks BROOOOTHER!!!

Sounds like your on the right track.
Goodluck with your build!

you WILL pay more than $10 to tap it trust me

Yea. For sure.

What? All they have to do is run a tap through it. If it's going to cost that much, just go to a tool store and buy a drill bit (if you don't have one) and a tap. Where do you live? Most of us have a tap or tap set...

Is it easy to drill and tap the pan ben?

Most people do it at home with a cordless drill. Grease the bit up good and put a ring of tape around it so that the drill can't go to far into the pan and hit your oil pickup.
Read the FAQ, the how to is in there.

It is easy esp if you have a 90 degree drill tool. I used a metal router bit to make the hole on mine so it was even easier to get close in.

I used a 14.4v drill. The bit was $23 at OSH, the tap was $20 at a specialty tool store. I'd sell you both of mine for $35 shipped, but I want to keep them since my IAC/BOV fittings are 1/2NPT too.

[QUOTE=nooneisperfect;125302]Oh.. and oil pan, I'm just going to take it to a shop to get it tapped for maybe $10 at most.

QUOTE]

When they screw it up make sure they pull the engine and give you a rental car! I think I would do it myself instead of trusting someone else.

I didn't do it. It's one of those "round-to-its" with my car. In general, yes it should be very easy. Essentially all you do is drill a hole then run a tap in the hole. It's also a good idea to run a tap into the head for the mani studs before you put them in.

Drilling and tapping the pan is more of a leap of faith than anything else it is scarier than it seems trust me.

wont shavings get in the pan

If you grease up the bit real good, the shavings will get trapped in the grooves of the bit and shouldn't fall into the pan.
I drilled a little bit at a time, and removed/cleaned/regreased several times. Just in case you do get small shaving or two, the filter should trap anything.
I didn't remove my filter when I drained the pan to tap.
Also, when I filled it up with oil, I used some cheap Kragen brand for about 50 miles, then swapped in a new filter and Mobil1 synth. After you tap the pan, place a bottle under the oil drain and run some mineral spirits into the hole and any shavings should come out.

Also, dual-feed-fuel-rail and fuel pressure gauge are easy/cheap and good insurance.

It's a helluva lot easier to swap the clutch when you've got all the shit off the car during the turbo install. Guys saying you won't need a new clutch with 150whp are walking a fine line. You will have to baby it. No drag launches, no drifting, basically babying it. People should say "you CAN get away" with the stock clutch at that power, but probably won't.

And there's no reason you can't install some of the peripheral equipment prior to the turbo. If you're thinking about injectors, fuel pump, Bipes, boost gauge, AFPR, and a few other things, NO REASON TO WAIT for the install on those. The car will run just fine with them installed and no boost, which will save you time in the long run.

wich is why we flush the pan.