So what are your shanghais boosting?
 

As the title says, what boost levels are you fellow shanghaiers (or ppl with comparable turbos, ie. 2554) running?

Street tuned the car today and ended up with 13 psi, this is fun, but I'm curious about if it is safe. I won't have a possibility to dyno tune / dyno the car for a while, so therefore I'm womdering, will I break my gearbox, oem rods and the like?

AFR 11.9-12.4 in boost, pulling 14 degrees of timing between 4000-5000 rpm.
98 RON.

I do realize that this might be noobish of me, but as there is a whole lot of boosted miata knowledge here, I'd like to ask. Will turn boost down for track duty.

I might have to wear my flame suit here, but hell, if the flaming has any usefull info, bring it on!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349899819

Edit: title is supposer to say your, if someone feels like it, please change it or I'll keep sounding like a retard.

Get VirtualDyno, load a log into it, and you'll have a decent idea of where you are power-wise.

0psi because it lasted less than 1000 miles.

I run ALLOFIT

12.4afr @13psi...have fun with your melted pistons

I'd take that as a suggestion to go for 12.0? I suppose I'll go tune some more :)

To clarify, I have a spot where it goes to 12.4, I figured "hell, its under 12.5.

I consider myself educated.

My aim here is to keep my 5-speed alive and still having a setup I can track. Your recommendation then would be to aim at AFR 12? Or should I lower the boost as long as I dont know what rwtq I'm making?

Experience is what counts here.

Shoot for 11.5 - 11.8 at peak boost.

Are you running stock clutch? I found mine slipping at 10 psi on my gt2554

The clutch has been changed by a previous owner. I have no info on whats in there now, have always thought it is a little heavier than other nb's and have not had a look.

It is holding on though, and I do realize that it shouldn't. As long as it does, I'm a happy camper.

I suppose the reasonable thing to do here would be to lower the boost to 12 psi and add some fuel. I dont have enough injector left to be able to tune richer without seeing duty cycles over 80%.

Ah hell, better safe than sorry I suppose.

who cares about that 80% mark as long as the mixture is still richening? What are you running at now? 15 ms total open time?

people whose injectors go static

I have the log at the tuning laptop, so I can't tell youmthe timers. Just concentrated on duty.

But I think the wise thing to do here is what I stated before. 12 psi, more fuel and pistons, rods and hopefully a 5-speed that lasts for a while :)

Thanks for the input!

Forged pistons/rods is going to be overkill on a 12psi 2554 setup IMO

Why not spend the money in the right place. A SIX SPEED NOT RODS AND PISTONS.

A six speed would be nice. It's on the "future"-list. But I'm still in uni and for a year more, I'll really have to plan my expenses.

10psi currently at 11 afr. It has seen 14psi about 2 years ago but that was scary since my budget would not allow a new motor.

Univ obviously not teach ya jack shit cus

YOU DONT NEED RODS AND PISTONS FOR 250hp

BUT

250hp WILL BREAK A FIVE SPEED

SO BUY A SIX SPEED YA DUMB SHIT

I think a poorly tuned 250whp would probably take out the rods before the trans unless you are flatshifting like a dumbass. :naughty:

Enough to know how to remove and reattach you tounge to your anus so that your fu**ing syllable diahrrea would make some sense! Stop doing uppers and learn some manners fu**er!

I could have said that, but you might actually be right about the trans, so I'll let it slide.
My ambition is that it will last one season, that means lowering boost on track, but I'm ok with that.

No shit sherlock. A poor tune breaks rods. Really??? pAnd you are fucking wrong. Five speed trans breaks with stock power.

The damn transmission will break especially on the track.

I hope that when it breaks, it somehow explodes your shortblock at the same time, and that the oil catches fire, your throttle gets stuck wide open, your key breaks off in the ignition, and your injectors spray nonstop WOT fuel quantities everywhere, and that your university car burns to the ground around you. Slowly. And that you are sad. You can walk away unharmed but you dont deserve a turbo miata cus ur so fucking dumb.

:giggle:

Unsubscribed.

There's no need to censor yourself here. Feel free to call Faeflora a fucker.

Also, we encourage creativity when insulting other members here. Personally, I take some inspiration from Erik Cartman of South Park. So, for instance, you might have said "Stop stealing your mom's meth and learn some manners, you testicle-shitting rectal wart!"

Don't feel obligated or constrained by this, I'm just giving you an example. Do what your muse tells you.

I hadn't realized that the auto censoring that came with the change of owners had dissappeared. So I took the safe route in order to avoid having full words censored.

Clear fault on my part, just as in leading Faelflora to misread my statement about the lasting of my pistons, rods and gearbox as "I'll change my pistons and rods, but not my gearbox just to put a huge thorn in your side"

I thank you for your input and will do my best to find unique and inspiring ways to insult my fellow forum members in the future.

Don't forget about the frame rails. They fail at 250 too;)

it *CAN* break a 5-sp.

But it probably won't. There's no need to upgrade to a 6-sp at that power level at all.

But what do we know, after all Fae is the one with a reliable car that's on the road 365/year around here:giggle:

Just to derail the thread a little more...

I'm looking at perhaps buying cjernigan's car. His car should be making significantly more than 250... should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 275 at the 18 psi he was last running.

Is that a power level that I should be concerned about the transmission? I want a car that's ready to DRIVE. Don't wanna be wrenching all the time.

It depends on your definition of DRIVE.

I had a car making 300whp on a 5 speed. I had mechanical empathy because I knew it was on extremely thin ice. It lasted well over a year til the car was sold.
The buyer shattered it within a few months. His definition of DRIVE was different from mine.

Fae's definition of DRIVE is spending boatloads of cash on ultra expensive parts, then effing up installation and generally being completely retarded with them, resulting in a fully built car and a 800hp turbo making 350whp.

My point is there are much less destructive and much less expensive ways of making power;)

Virgin crew sign-in thread?

:laugh: it was only a matter of time

Well that depends how much you saw through them when you do the sideskirts. :fael:

Nope; don't worry about it. It's reaching the limits, but just dont abuse it.

thanks for the replies Vlad and Scott. I'm still working on the wife to go for the Miata.

I didn't have any mechanical sympathy in high school but I've learned it since. I want a wicked daily driver that I can autocross here and there. I won't be drag racing, that's not what a Miata is for (someone might try to get that through Fae's head...). If I get to the point where I can afford track days, I'll drop a 6-speed in there and call it a day.

Can't ride street bikes anymore, I figure a mean turbo miata is the next best thing.

Thanks again.

When you have around 250+whp and the top off on narrow, twisting, country roads it's pretty damn close.;)

I would say if you lay off the burnouts, hard launching, and flatshifting, the 5spd should be just fine.