Takin Head off!
07-05-2007, 12:29 AM
#44
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Pai, I had thought about this on the way home and nearly kicked myself in the head for not thinking about it earlier, what you need to do is loosen those three bolts that hold the motor mounts on and they will have a bit of wiggle room. With that little bit of extra slack it should be able to find its way home. Oh and I left my glasses at your house, so if you see em hold on to em for me and Ill send you a few bucks to ship em to my house.
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07-07-2007, 07:57 PM
#45
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Well, I went to go put my greddy manifold on, and I couldnt...No room at all. It would hit the brake hard lines. So I remembered that on the passenger motor mount there was like a "slot" where the stud can slide up and down and it was all the way up and needs to be slid down to level out the motor. I was wondering why I had so much room on the intake manifold side : /. I loosened ALL the motor mount bolts and was pushing as hard as i can on the intake manifold and didnt budge. Even stood on it, and nothing then either. Any Suggestions? Ryan said to just pick up the driver side with a cherry picker, that sounds good to me, what do you guys think?
Pics of manifold and how close it is to the hard lines, how unleveled it is becuase of motor mount, and the slot on the motor mount im takling about.
MMTWO.jpg
MMTHREE.jpg
MM.jpg
Pics of manifold and how close it is to the hard lines, how unleveled it is becuase of motor mount, and the slot on the motor mount im takling about.
MMTWO.jpg
MMTHREE.jpg
MM.jpg
Last edited by Braineack; 07-09-2007 at 08:30 AM.
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07-07-2007, 11:15 PM
#46
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Quick update. I Had the cherry picker lifting up the driver side and the motor moved to the passenger side, but the motor mount did not even budge at all! so i left al lthe bolts loose for now so they dont get stressed. Its super weird, I even tried baning on the dam mount! lol. Any suggestions will be tried out and appreciated.
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07-07-2007, 11:34 PM
#47
take off your CHRA and compressorto get acces to the driver side motor mount unbolt it fit the pass side motor mount and get the nut started to hold it there then install the driverside mount last time i did mine me and my dad just twisted the engin on its acces with me underneath and him up top essentialy you will need to be able to lift and orient the motor with little to no influence from the cherry picker on this so if you are puny or by yourself then this will not work still the motor mount trick works 2scoops and i just did it on his can and i was surprised how easy it was in comparison.
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07-08-2007, 11:10 AM
#54
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Its all good man! Good news. I just got home from work and said **** it, ill just take all th ebolts off and do it all over again..well...it all went in like CAKE! So now its good to go.
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07-09-2007, 08:04 AM
#55
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oh you can clean the outside of it.
running seafoam or even just water in the intake while idling will clean the pistons and valves right up.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s004_93.html
running seafoam or even just water in the intake while idling will clean the pistons and valves right up.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s004_93.html
How much water and how fast? I'm guessing the engine should be at operating temp?
Precautions?
Cheers.
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07-09-2007, 08:22 AM
#56
just dangle a peice of vac hose into a bucket of clean preferably distilled water and let it suck abit in there, try this for 3-5 minutes and then drive the car noting the improvements of your now clean combustion chambers or buy a Devils own WI kit and feel the difference while boosting
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07-10-2007, 07:42 AM
#57
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just dangle a peice of vac hose into a bucket of clean preferably distilled water and let it suck abit in there, try this for 3-5 minutes and then drive the car noting the improvements of your now clean combustion chambers or buy a Devils own WI kit and feel the difference while boosting
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07-11-2007, 03:53 AM
#58
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Well, Ryan came back over today, and we got alot of stuff done. Everything is done except the IC Routing, Radiator, and Timing belt/belts. Guess why I had to hold those off......Worn down Woodruff Key, and crank pully. Hopefully after a new key and pulley everything will be good and motor will have good compression. I have a couple questions.
What gap should I have on my plugs for the turbo? I know they have to be smaller but exactly what should be the gap?
Also, if anyone in the sac area has a crank pulley for a LNC 1.6 and/or a key, Please...Let me know ASAP. Thank you guys!
What gap should I have on my plugs for the turbo? I know they have to be smaller but exactly what should be the gap?
Also, if anyone in the sac area has a crank pulley for a LNC 1.6 and/or a key, Please...Let me know ASAP. Thank you guys!
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07-18-2007, 07:12 AM
#59
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just dangle a peice of vac hose into a bucket of clean preferably distilled water and let it suck abit in there, try this for 3-5 minutes and then drive the car noting the improvements of your now clean combustion chambers or buy a Devils own WI kit and feel the difference while boosting
All plugs out - engine not turning at all.....
Engine go bye bye.
Do not try this.
Last edited by Uncle Arthur; 07-18-2007 at 08:01 AM.
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07-18-2007, 08:40 AM
#60
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did you regulate the amount of water you were sucking at all?! Or just let the engine guzzle whatever it wanted?
just wanna point out:
just wanna point out:
CAUTION: The Mazda Top Engine Cleaner must be fed into the engine through the correct vacuum line and at a feed rate not less than 1.5 minutes per half container with an orifice in the feeding hose. A faster feed rate may result in liquid accumulation in a cylinder resulting in hydraulic lock-up and engine damage.
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