Tdr Fmic
 

http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit.../TDR-90MGR.htm
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...ers_greedy.jpg

EXPENSIVE at $1200, but could be cool to duplicate. Uses a 16x8x3 intercooler with pipes facing up.

I'm surprised that the hood closes w/o issue. Also curious as to where the a/c dryer is...

The kit uses fabbed radiator brackets that both lowers and tilts the radiator back toward the engine to get the clearance for the IC piping.

Wow...Thats expensive.....

Because they tilt the radiator back the ac dryer is in the stock location. Look at the base the headlights and where the radiator is in relation. Then look at a Miata that hasn't had the radiator tilted. It would make it hard to change the belts.

Spoke with Gary @ TDR about the kit...
The price includes everything including 3 new diverter panels and the radiator top panel. The a/c dryer bracket is cut and the dryer is moved to clearance the throttle side pipe. The radiator itself is lowered 1/2" by hogging out its brackets, and is also tilted towards the motor some. In stock form the radiator is slightly tilted forward, with this mod the radiator is vertical. The kit also includes the intake pipes.

It's actually a great solution... just wish it was half price...

Eh I was completely wrong. It really looks further back then being vertical though.

Other than moving the rad and the AC bracketry there are no modifications to the hood or the car? With out AC this should be pretty easy to duplicate I would think. Especially with a Starion I/C.

no mods to body. neat solution.
Wish I still had that starion intercooler. ohs wells.

Even though this is for greddy folks, i have a bookmark to a guy who did pretty much this exact mod for his NB with no mods to the body besides hogging out the rad brackets.

Link please.

I don't think it would be difficult. There's a lot of space under the rad for lowering it.

The DIY over the top setups I've seen have lowered the rad and either made notches in the hood or the body. Maybe they were using larger pipe, I think the TDR setup uses 2".

Ben lowered then tilted his radiator way on back. I don't think he made any modifications to his body at all. But he did loose the holder for the hood prop.

I'll have to get on my home computer to get that link, it was a pretty good looking setup though. I'll try to get it tonight.

I've heard two arguments on radiator (heat exchangers) tilting in reference to oncoming air flow. One says it improves efficiency if it puts more of the surface area in the face of oncoming air. The other says it's worse because the air can't flow through the rad since the air has to be diverted to meet the angle of passage, and cause a greater turbulence at the surface.

Thats nice, too bad its so much money

Yea...Way too much...But I mean...If you supply it, someone will buy it.

Dude you have to stop posting while hitting the pipe.

lol

http://www.trackdogracing.com/inst/9...percharger.htm

There is some cutting of the radiator crossmember.

Here you go niggaz.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/124055/3

I'm sure it's been seen by a few people.

or just use a Civic half size race radiator and go around the sides.

Wonder if you could just drop a stock sized rad down 2-1/2" and avoid the tilting?

I don't like hitting end tanks on road hazards and speed bumps...

I spent lots of time putting the rad in a bunch of positions to do my diy over-the-top IC setup, and it seemed like lowering the rad more than about an inch made for some interesting bellypan problems. Besides, you don't have to lower it very much to get it to the same level as the front support, and you can fit 2" pipes over the front support.

Ben is right about my ghetto setup: I lowered the rad as much as possible while keeping the stock bellypan, and then tilted it way back. I can't say much about the cooling efficiency yet, as I haven't gotten around to blocking the flow area between the rad support and the rad, but I haven't overheated yet. I did see 216° while stuck in low-speed traffic on a 95° humid day with both fans running though.

Understandable. But the subframe will hit before anything up front being the lowest, and that never happens. There's at least 1-1/2" from the bottom of the stock rad to the belly pan from the factory. I used to run brake ducting under it for racing Miatas. Another inch would still put it far above the front lip. Pic below shows aftermarket rad (crossflow). Base is just above front lip (not spoiler) bottom- about 1" above the bottom of the subframe.
Attachment 216282

Hey, with your skill in making shrouds, no sweat. With mine? Well...

That stuff is REALLY easy to work with. The mockup phase just takes a bunch of cardboard, scissors and tape.

I wonder what it'd take to get 2.5" pipes in there, at least on the TB side.

The TDR is a lovely solution. I would have had one by now for my SC, except the price.

The M2's require a small amount of triming of the upper rad support area, to clear the pipes. However, I haven't seen a good view of the instructions yet... for M1's -- EDIT Yeah, it does.... after going through the posted instructions.... archived for later reference.

The one thing the kit gets though, its all the plastics/metal for the ducting to the rad, and making sure you don't loose an efficiency.

It still makes me drool though.....

If you guys want to make one, sweet.... I'll just have to fab something from the inlet on the SC. <G>

Dave,

Looks like a really nice setup but 1200 is alot of cash for an intercooler...