Prefabbed Turbo Kits A place to discuss prefabricated turbo kits on the market

Tightening begi upper and lower downpipes - Leaking - Loosening

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-27-2009, 09:55 AM
  #21  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

yeah yeah yeah. like 3 years later for no apparent reason but to **** me off when i need to drop my tranny.
Braineack is offline  
Old 10-27-2009, 11:15 AM
  #22  
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Jeff_Ciesielski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,770
Total Cats: 31
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
did you weld it out of the car and then put it in the car or what?
He welded it off the car and we reinstalled from underneath. I have the advantage of my turbo-> downpipe flange NOT being attached to the actual downpipe, therefor I'm able to worm that bastard back in there. I don't think that would be possible with a solid flange.
Jeff_Ciesielski is offline  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:41 PM
  #23  
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
seraph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Springfield, Mass
Posts: 363
Total Cats: 0
Default

I ran mine with just the elbow coming from the turbo once the bolt snapped. I must say it was pretty cool hearing the turbo spool, but it sounded like a farm tractor or a small biplane coming in for a landing.
seraph is offline  
Old 10-27-2009, 03:01 PM
  #24  
Junior Member
 
avante43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparta, NJ
Posts: 92
Total Cats: 0
Default

Trying to put that bolt in was extremely annoying.

Solution that we came up with was to use a spring from a drum brake that we had lying around. Its been on the car for a while now, and no leaks.
avante43 is offline  
Old 10-27-2009, 03:04 PM
  #25  
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Jeff_Ciesielski's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,770
Total Cats: 31
Default

Originally Posted by avante43
Trying to put that bolt in was extremely annoying.

Solution that we came up with was to use a spring from a drum brake that we had lying around. Its been on the car for a while now, and no leaks.
Thats clever...
Jeff_Ciesielski is offline  
Old 10-27-2009, 06:13 PM
  #26  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

Well i tighten the hell out of it last night, as it warmed up on my way to work this mourning, ppprrrrrrr ppprrrrr pprrrrr > bbbrrrrraaaaaappppppp... rattle.... bbbrrraaaappp... rattle....

Got it welded as much as they could it still leaks a tiny bit on top but i have some magic potion that i will spread all over it once it cools down and hope it seals the damn thing. I'll also toss the clamp on there if it fits between the pipe and the cradle.
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:12 PM
  #27  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

where is the air vent for the heater and the ac and so forth? when i'm at a stop light it smells like exhaust in the cab.. i honestly feel dizzy right now.
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:15 PM
  #28  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

do you have your gasket between the firewall and hood?

but it shouldn't smell, fix your leaks.
Braineack is offline  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:19 PM
  #29  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

yup that gasket is there, i looked around and could not smell exhaust in the engine bay. Its leaking at the crappy slip joint.
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:23 PM
  #30  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

It shouldn't leak, like i said I never used any securing device there. Teh design on the joint should prevent leaks. since top portion fits into the bottom section with about a 4" overlap, it's going to be damn hard for the exhaust to leak out. Plus once it gets warm it should expand and get mad tight dawg.

your best be is a slip-joint band clamp and permatex muffler wrap as a sealant beneath it to really solve the issue.
Braineack is offline  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:31 PM
  #31  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

4" wtf? mine barely has an inch, maybe an inch and a half. I ripped the bolt when i tried to tighten it more.


When i talked to Stephanie she did say they changed the design so now they are using a 4" bolt instead of the 6" bolt i'm using.
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:31 AM
  #32  
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
SKMetalworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Renton Washington
Posts: 1,731
Total Cats: 4
Default

The problem i have with mine is my slip joint keeps slipping down. So far it hasnt come off but would make a big problem if it did. Either im going to weld it solid (then i have to take off the manifold every time i want to remove the exhaust) or vband. To me, a weld tack would eventually give way.

If your gonna tack it, just weld it. No leaks garanteed (unless you welded without gas [not flux core])
SKMetalworks is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:33 AM
  #33  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

mine is not tacked, mine is welded however its not welded all around since they couldnt get to it from the top. You think i can take it off from the bottom of the car or do i have to pull the turbo to remove it?
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:57 AM
  #34  
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
SKMetalworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Renton Washington
Posts: 1,731
Total Cats: 4
Default

You may be able too. Try it. You may be able to get the joint low enough to where you can get a full weld around it.
SKMetalworks is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 12:59 AM
  #35  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

i'd do that but i gotta get it to the shop so they can weld it :(
triple88a is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:29 PM
  #36  
Former Vendor
 
Stephanie Turner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bell Tuning & Performance
Posts: 1,337
Total Cats: -99
Default

Originally Posted by AbeFM
I have the older FM kit, which is a begi design. It had a flange and four welded in bolt "studs" around it. IT gave me no end of problems...
Can't blame us for that one sorry. Not Corky's design idea. Better get back with someone else on that.....

BTW - that is the only downpipe I have seen break like that. Chances are you have something pulling on it.
Stephanie
Stephanie Turner is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:33 PM
  #37  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Full_Tilt_Boogie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 5,155
Total Cats: 406
Default

My begi downpipe didnt hve enough clearance for me to thread the nut on the bolt more than about a few threads, its still hanging on there but it not tight, Im going to put a spring on it pretty soon
Full_Tilt_Boogie is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:34 PM
  #38  
Former Vendor
 
Stephanie Turner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bell Tuning & Performance
Posts: 1,337
Total Cats: -99
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
4" wtf? mine barely has an inch, maybe an inch and a half. I ripped the bolt when i tried to tighten it more.


When i talked to Stephanie she did say they changed the design so now they are using a 4" bolt instead of the 6" bolt i'm using.
I am sorry I confused you. We use the 6" now. We used to use a 4" bolt, but it is not long enough.

It sounds like the previous owner chopped off part of the downpipe. That explains most of your problems. There is a minimum of 2" on a slip joint. Usually it much longer though.
Stephanie
Stephanie Turner is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:45 PM
  #39  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

I guess mine's closer to 2", but yeah, that's how mine was installed. i didnt bother with the bolt.

Braineack is offline  
Old 10-29-2009, 02:49 PM
  #40  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

try this:



2 1/2 " STAINLESS STEEL BAND CLAMP for slip on Y pipes:eBay Motors (item 380112453669 end time Nov-17-09 05:38:38 PST)

with this wrapped around the seem:

http://permatex.com/products/Automot...pe_Bandage.htm
Braineack is offline  


Quick Reply: Tightening begi upper and lower downpipes - Leaking - Loosening



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:17 PM.