Torque spec for turbo to manifold?
 

Does any one know the torque spec for the manifold to turbo and the turbo to downpipe? Thanks in advance

tight.

Yes, tight. And then after a few hours of driving, retighten. And after a day or so, retighten again. And after about a week, retighted again.

:bigtu:

Ditto, don't rely on spring lockwashers, they loose their locking abilty quickly so keep an eye on the really all turbo bolts/nuts whenever you drive.

Thanks for the info! BY the way if my oil feed line is touching my downpipe, would that be a problem?

May degrade the inside hose/liner from heat

time to bust out the zip-ties. I think mine is pull out of the way from the ground wire mount near the heater hoses.

You guys are quick! Now does anyone have pics of how they routed the return line? Thanks again

Yes, all turbo-to-manifold and turbo-to-downpipe bolts should be tighted to PFT™ spec.

two pics in my FAQ, in the oil supply & return section.

piss f'n tight?

Pretty F'n Tight?

I am actually using the greddy method for the return line, but I am worried about pooling. Thats why I want pics of other people's routing methods, so I don't end up damaging my turbo.

it's either that or drilling like in my FAQ and 80% of the members here.

Poor oil drainage won't technically damage the turbo, it will just burn up & smoke and sometimes push past the seals. Lots of members here have the standard GReddy return without issue, but like you know, it's not optimal.

duh :slap: FTW.

How the hell do I line up the air filter/ maf to the intake to the turbo with no room?

If there was room, anybody could do it:robert:

bend the brake line out of the way and push really hard. :noes:

Finally got it in, but its not a looker. Do I have to used the heatshield blanket if I have a bowser heatshield?

Just started it up and the its smoking from the engine bay. Which I am assuming its all the gaskets breaking in. Right?

nope, but I'd still wrap the closest heater hose, and the close brake lines.

yeah smoke is normal, got scare your neighbors for half an hour.

Since the vehicle started I am assuming the bipes is hooked up correctly, all display works except for timing retard. Also when I rev up the engine my boost gauge isn't showing boost. Help please!!!!

If you don't use the blanket, I'll buy it for $20, shipped.

The timing retard display on the Bipes is likely working correctly, but there's hardly any load on the engine revving it at idle, so it's not going to pull any timing.

This is also the reason you won't see any boost.

Just test drove it and I have a permanent smile on my face. Boost gauge was going to 6-7 psi even though I didnt tigthen the wastegate. Its that normal?

:D

Glad to have you back!

Dude, go to the vbGarage https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/vbgarage.php?do=list and look through the pictures of engine bays. While you're there, fill one out yourself and post some pics so we can see what you're working with. Also a good idea to ad a little about your car in your sig and fill out your profile (at least with your city so locals can offer to help in person).

There are two ways to route the oil feed line. Up the dipstick and over the top, or back along the firewall and around the brake reservoir hardlines. You'll see the brake hardline route in my vbGarage here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/vb...etimage&id=256

Besides the Greddy way, there's really only one way to do the oil return properly... tap the pan like in Brains faq. It's not hard. Get the proper sized drill and tap and a $3 brass barb. Take about 10 minutes even if you're being really careful.

With a NA car w/MAF, there's really only one place it will go, on the fender on top of the shock mount.

a little high for the base kit, should only be 4-5psi.