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I am seconds away from ordering this kit. This was a lot to read thru, but well worth it. I have a brand new fm2 kit minus turbo and may pull the plug, start over. Any specific suggestions as I have a fully built 95 block, big valved and cammed bp4w head skunk2 intake manifold in a 901 chasis any 93octane everywhere. running a MSPNP2 no vvt. Feel free to pm Sav as my CC is on standby. power goals are the best power curve while staying under 350whp. I am pretty sure I want 6258 not sure about waste gate and if I need to get rid of my intercooler.
I made 309hp on my 6258 at 17psi. With spool that's better than a gt2560r on FM manifold.
greg made over 400hp with a 6258 and e85 at 23psi I believe, so this turbo is plenty big for most setups. No need to go with a 6758 unless going for over 400hp.
You want the medium spring for 15-18ish psi setup.
Color me curious....while the 6258 easily achieves power goals I am curious of the power curve of the 6758. When playing with GT2860’s, GT2868’s (FP hybrids) and GT3071’s I was surprised to see less mid range “hit” and smoother power delivery of the larger turbos. The GT30’s were softer but had real legs. The 2868’s were the best overall and the 2860’ hit the hardest.
I am seconds away from ordering this kit. This was a lot to read thru, but well worth it. I have a brand new fm2 kit minus turbo and may pull the plug, start over. Any specific suggestions as I have a fully built 95 block, big valved and cammed bp4w head skunk2 intake manifold in a 901 chasis any 93octane everywhere. running a MSPNP2 no vvt. Feel free to pm Sav as my CC is on standby. power goals are the best power curve while staying under 350whp. I am pretty sure I want 6258 not sure about waste gate and if I need to get rid of my intercooler.
6258 for that power goal. At 400whp I shift to the 6758.
Spool difference is minimal between the two, maybe 200rpm between them at most. It's more of a feel thing. The 6258 feels totally smooth and linear, the 6758 "hits" a tiny bit harder. The 67 is still buttery smooth when compared to any GT28 Garrett, though.
Not that unusual. It takes probably 1 to 6 weeks for the foundry to cast the manifolds. Then another 1 to 4 weeks for the machine shop to do all the machine work. I am assuming that Savington is getting 15-25 at a time. More then that and it becomes really expensive to put money up front. It can also be hard to predict order rates. What might seem like a good amount may turn out to be not enough, and over ordering can be just as bad.
The downside of being a small business and catering to a niche market is that there can be a ton of things completely out of your control. Especially when it comes getting things made, quickly, and not in humongous quantities.
Not that unusual. It takes probably 1 to 6 weeks for the foundry to cast the manifolds. Then another 1 to 4 weeks for the machine shop to do all the machine work. I am assuming that Savington is getting 15-25 at a time. More then that and it becomes really expensive to put money up front. It can also be hard to predict order rates. What might seem like a good amount may turn out to be not enough, and over ordering can be just as bad.
The downside of being a small business and catering to a niche market is that there can be a ton of things completely out of your control. Especially when it comes getting things made, quickly, and not in humongous quantities.
Yea I get it. I have managed several automotive businesses from small to large. It just sucks because this is the set up I want but time has limited me. My builder has a 2 year back log and my car is up and than my turbo set up isnt gonna work.
Do we have a rough ETA for the IC piping kit? It seems to have been promised since 2016 lol. I ask this as I live in Australia and do not wish to pay additional shipping fees for IC pipes later down the road.
Also, what is the ordering process? I can't seem to find a link to the entire kit inclusive of the intercooler itself.
I really don't know how Andrew is going to be able to come up with a single-solution intercooler plumbing kit given that there are so many configuration options.
eg.
Do you have A/C?
Do you have P/S?
What intercooler do you have and where are its barbs? (obviously this will work with the TSE intercooler but you can't assume the same position with other intercoolers).
Do you want to route the hotside plumbing down or over the top like the MSM? (over the top will compromise cool-air intake since the pipe will radiate heat)
How much room to you have around the TB? (You may need a different radiator hose)
Will the radiator hoses dictate routing?
What TB do you have? (OEM or Skunk2 - they differ in size).
Do you have front brake ducting? (takes up space that the pipes may need)
What size is your sway bar (it's surprising how much more space is available with a Racing Beat 1.125" sway bar vs the 1.25" bar)
Intercooler plumbing is best done based on YOUR configuration and it's not hard.
Just buy a few 2" and 2.5" aluminium pipes with the bends you'll need, silicone hoses with the bends you need, and mock them up.
Once you're happy with them, if they require too many hose clamps for you, get some equivalent aluminium bends to the silicone bends and get someone to weld them.
For my hot-side, I had enough aluminium pipe to copy the aluminium+silicone hose hot-side I mocked up so took both to a welder and he used my original as the template.
I eliminated my P/S which permits routing the plumbing under the car but still have A/C so needed the 135* silicone coupler to the turbo to clear the A/C ports.
I didn't like that extra silicone hose in the middle since it requires 2 clamps in a tight space so I took some extra pipes to a welder and he made the 2nd one for me. I shortened and re-beaded the ends, that I CAN do, and it only cost me A$100 for the welding.
Plenty of clearance everywhere (after routing the lower radiator hose behind and under the A/C compressor - this required modifying the water inlet so that the barb angles downward 45*):
I needed to bend the A/C's hardline outward so that the A/C hose cleared the intercooler pipe.
For the coldside, I started with a 2.75"-2.5" reducing elbow (I have a Skunk2 TB), 2.5" aluminium J-pipe (BOV barb welded onto it), 45* silicone elbow, 30* aluminium elbow and connecting 2.5" hose.
This required way too many clamps so I bought the FM cold-side silicone hose and cut it to size and now only have 2 silicone hoses on it (to intercooler and to TB):
I call this "The Cobra!"
Here's the original multi-silicone hose version installed (forgot to take pictures of the updated version):
I wouldn't consider it THAT hard assuming the following. TSE guarantees IC piping will fit with their specific set-up. You'll have to use their intercooler obviously. Since you're using their turbo (6258/6758),manifold, and intercooler, the entire hot side will be the same no matter what. The kit could be made assuming the car is completely stock and any deviations would require the purchaser to improvise. The main issue would be (imo), is this profitable enough.
^
With P/S and A/C and the lower radiator hose in the way, there's very little room for routing the hot-side straight down - I doubt that any vendor would produce this type of kit since everything is so tight and would create rubbing in multiple places that they would not want to be liable for.
This means that the routing would need to be over the top.
In an NB, there is room for this, MSM-style, but you're compromising intake temperatures and placement of the air filter.
In an NA I don't think there's much room at all for this.
^
With P/S and A/C and the lower radiator hose in the way, there's very little room for routing the hot-side straight down - I doubt that any vendor would produce this type of kit since everything is so tight and would create rubbing in multiple places that they would not want to be liable for.
This means that the routing would need to be over the top.
In an NB, there is room for this, MSM-style, but you're compromising intake temperatures and placement of the air filter.
In an NA I don't think there's much room at all for this.
If it "wasn't THAT hard", it would exist already!
FM makes complete intercooler and piping kits that route down, and work for all year miatas and ps and ac compatible.
^
Good point - would be interesting to hear from owners if the FM silicone hose hot-side has any fitment issues because it's REALLY tight with everything installed.
The FM manifold+turbo is closer to the block so can be clocked straight down.
The TSE manifold+EFR6258 hangs the turbo slightly over the shelf so cannot be clocked straight down (needs an elbow joiner vs straight joiner) required more routing real-estate+creativity.
Pipes are configured for AC/PS*, so they'll fit with/without those
What intercooler do you have and where are its barbs? (obviously this will work with the TSE intercooler but you can't assume the same position with other intercoolers).
Pipes will fit with the intercooler that it comes with, if you have another intercooler I suggest selling it or feeding it to your cat or something
What TB do you have? (OEM or Skunk2 - they differ in size).
k, one coupler that is 2.5 or 2.75
Do you have front brake ducting? (takes up space that the pipes may need)
Tough ****, move your brake ducting
What size is your sway bar (it's surprising how much more space is available with a Racing Beat 1.125" sway bar vs the 1.25" bar)
Rest assured that Mazda's tolerance stacking is not good enough for me to build an IC pipe kit that fits so tightly to the sway bar that a 0.125" size difference will change things
* = initial pipes may not be 100% PS compatible but it can be done with a little legwork
01-15-2019, 05:30 PM
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