Tubular Exhaust Manifold Options for NC
Moderator Edit: This thread has been split from the other. Please keep separate topics separate if at all possible. I have a 2013 PRHT myself and have been researching the FI route. I'm a turbo "whore'" myself from my good old SE-R days so I know what route I want to go. I won't make excuses, so to make a long story short I need to pay someone to fabricate a manifold for me. Can anyone here recommend a legit vendor where I can get something like this done? I'm not looking for a crazy equal length blah blah. I'd like to fit a T3/T4 type turbo with an external wastegate, right now the only pre-fab option I see is a log manifold which I'd like to avoid if possible. I live in North Central FL, so removing AC/PS is not an option. |
Are you wanting to avoid a log for any actual reason or just so your buddies with zero knowledge about turbocharger systems dont give you a hard time?
Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1064129)
Are you wanting to avoid a log for any actual reason or just so your buddies with zero knowledge about turbocharger systems dont give you a hard time?
Dann It's mostly from personal experience. My previous car started with a log manifold, made good power for what it was, but it made more at the same boost when I went with a "tubular" manifold. I don't know a ton about the MZR motor, but if I'm starting off with 10.8:1 compression, I'd like to stack the deck in my favor backpressure and flow wise. |
Of course it made more power at the same boost, but do you really think that boost pressure has any significant bearing on anything when within the realms of realistic?
Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1064136)
Of course it made more power at the same boost, but do you really think that boost pressure has any significant bearing on anything when within the realms of realistic?
Dann |
Your time and money. Go ahead.
|
Originally Posted by Luissr20
(Post 1064128)
I have a 2013 PRHT myself and have been researching the FI route. I'm a turbo "whore'" myself from my good old SE-R days
|
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1064142)
Your time and money. Go ahead.
|
Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R
(Post 1064143)
Its funny how many of us former SE-R/SR20 guys are driving Miatas and turbo Foresters these days lol. Sending you a PM Luis.
|
>2013: 10:1 high compression.
Right. Spend money making it as complicated as possible and then try to impress people with your old guy antics. Whatever man. The thing will be intercooled, the extra 1psi of boost required to have the log keep up with the tubular will come with worse spool, less reliability, and install and maintenance headaches. There is a time and place for tubular manifolds, and it isnt a car with fuck all space to work with, heat affected components inches away in almost every direction and with a low power goal, in a street car that needs good response and a lot boost threshold. Im currently building an equal length genuine twinscroll (fully split, twin external wastegate, no cheating) GTX3076r manifold for a Suzuki samurai that already has a supercharger, I know all about making shit too complicated. I pointed all of this out to that customer also, and he is doing it because he wanted to do it. Where as you are giving bro science answers with a condescending tone and answering with the same answers as everyone else who comes on and wants to run stuff that is more complicated than their goal requires. Whatever. |
Condescending? Re-read your initial response. I asked a question, I can understand your negative props now.
|
You've still given no reason for wanting a tubular setup except that, "you are older now" and " It's not a 2000 dollar car with a "disposable" engine for me anymore". Sounds like an attempt at being condescending to me.
Whatever. Im out. Gotta go finish a manifold. |
Dann, I know you've been a bit tense lately but try to keep it light. This guy is not the source of your troubles. He didn't do anything.
|
Luis what is your time frame? Most of the fabricators here are (at least a month ago they were) really busy and backlogged with work.
I will be building a custom tubular mani to fit an EFR 6758 in the next few months hopefully. If you haven't looked into the EFR turbos you should check them out. The integrated recirc valve and internal wastegate design outperform any external option, and make packaging much simpler. Only problem is the EFR is a bit bigger in size than a gt turbo, but I'm pretty optimistic it will still fit. Hopefully once I get mine done the other tuners and fabricators in the NC game will realize the EFR is doable. Until I get mine going though, I'm all talk :). |
LOL as I said in the other thread, this guy right here ^^^
T3/T4 = old ass 80s/90s tech EFR = Brand new fancy race designed turbo When you factor in $300 for an EWG and $150 for a BOV, suddenly a new EFR is a similar price to a new T3/T4. |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1064360)
LOL as I said in the other thread, this guy right here ^^^
T3/T4 = old ass 80s/90s tech EFR = Brand new fancy race designed turbo When you factor in $300 for an EWG and $150 for a BOV, suddenly a new EFR is a similar price to a new T3/T4. |
Originally Posted by wittyworks
(Post 1064355)
Luis what is your time frame? Most of the fabricators here are (at least a month ago they were) really busy and backlogged with work.
I will be building a custom tubular mani to fit an EFR 6758 in the next few months hopefully. If you haven't looked into the EFR turbos you should check them out. The integrated recirc valve and internal wastegate design outperform any external option, and make packaging much simpler. Only problem is the EFR is a bit bigger in size than a gt turbo, but I'm pretty optimistic it will still fit. Hopefully once I get mine done the other tuners and fabricators in the NC game will realize the EFR is doable. Until I get mine going though, I'm all talk :). |
On a less aggressive note than before... And I apologise for my bluntness.
Just putting parts on because you are familiar with them is not the recipe for success, the devil is on the details and you ALWAYS want to put on the bare minimum parts to suit your goals otherwise its just a waste of money and adding failure points and complication. An efr6258 on a log or shorty semi tubular is the way to go, there is just too much that is easily heat affected on a road going NC and no advantage at all whatsoever doing to a tubular on an NC that is keeping its stock internals. What the tubular will give you is a lower peak boost figure for the same HP(completely irrelevant to anything, there is no real world advantage in having this), it will be much more expensive and difficult to work on, more prone to cracking, radiate more heat off its much larger surface area onto your alternator and ABS and all of the lines in the area, and spool at a higher RPM in the vast majority of cases. Just use conventional parts. Dann |
Thanks for the input Dann. In the end it may come down to packaging restrictions, especially since I'm definitely looking at a EFR setup.
|
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1064799)
and spool at a higher RPM in the vast majority of cases.
Dann |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:48 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands