Turbos in!
 

It kicks way more than expected, and he bov sounds like a turkey.

I shifted into second and just got the rear completely loose.

Wow, thanks a ton for everyone guidence, like seriously.


Im going to get the BIPES in next weekend, and play with upping the boost to about 7, im running an intercooler, 91 octane gas, and its cold as fuck here so i tihnk ill be ok on stock 10 deg timing with 5 psi for a week.


Thanks again, gonna go drive for a while haha.

Damn, all these people with greddy kits at 6-7psi breakin 'em loose in second and third... I can't do that at 12psi with a standalone. I must be doin something wrong! ;)

+1. I think we just don't wail on it enough.

Listen for knock, and get out of it if you hear any. My clutch lasted only 6k miles with boost (3k at 5-6 psi, next 3k progressing to 10 psi), so go ahead and leave some room in your budget for a clutch.

Al, my car would bust em loose at the very top of 3rd. If you compare my dyno graph with say BRG's, I think you'll see how the greddy kit with some management and a downpipe rolls power on nice and linearly, while a more "stock" kit acts like a lightswitch.

yeah at 7 psi with BFG Gforce KDWs mine breaks loose in second, haven't messed with third much. Damn thing has bene taking too long to get the bugs worked out to mess with it all much.
Soon though, very soon. Learning to Tig aluminum this week, that is key in me having the car back on the road.

BOV shouldn't sound like a turkey gobble, that's what compressor surge sounds like. Make sure your BOV is actually working.

if you overtighten your BOV it can sound like a turkey, or squirrel... its totally fine if it is that way

Al, im runnin at 5psi right now as well with 8* and the thing goes like a bat out of hell (compared to stock). Ive got azenis and it frequently spins in first gear a little bit with pure accelleration and second can spin with a hard shift. This is with an open 1.6 diff though, so its apples to oranges compared to a lower ratio 1.8 torsen rear end. Ive got a 1.8 torsen ready to swap, im sick of spinning my tires on corners :p

Not exactly. Turkey Gobble describes compressor surge. As the compressor blade spins violently out of control and the opposite direction.

Overtightened BOVs would be described as "fluttering". Imagine swinging a flag through the air really fast.

The word overtighten should descirbe the results as not being "totally fine". What is happening is the the bov is opening and closing very rapidly as the spring overpowers the pressure change. The result can still allow pressure to make it back to the compressor. If anything just adjust the BOV to make a proper dump of pressure.

+1 on overtightening the bypass valve to the point of "gobble" as not being totally fine ;)

Some pictures of the installation?

gobble? gobble, gobble. gobble!

could anything else cause this on a type s? like plumb to the wrong port or somthing? bad gasket?

My tial won't blow off if I "T" it in to multiple vac lines. I removed my upper intake mani, drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT and devoted the Tial it's own vac line. Now it blows off easy at low (3) boost psi. Might want to try just giving it it's own vac line to see if that helps.

A GReddy Type-S? Remove the soft spring inside and leave the heavy one. That's what I did.

i like my turkey calling 16g i doubt it effects your turbo anytime soon eventualy you migth get some excess wear on the bearings and maybe untorque the shaft to some extent but that would be a long time down the raod, in my opinion BOV is just extra. Glad you got the results you where looking for with patience and abit more work you will see this is only the begining.

I dunno braineack ive been rocking the stock rubber to limit the strain on my drivetrain through the motor breack in and i get it loos in 4th at 4 psi depending on what i am doing i love going into corners and power sliding it around at the apex F&F redneck drift people.

Hmm i havent driven it much at all, just a few nice runs. My tires breaking lose is deff. because its cold as hell, and they are stock rubber on there, not original, but stock. And it deffinately sounds like a blow off valve, i cant tell for sure, but is there any way to tell if it is working? I have the bov setting all the way on "hard", ill play with that today.

Also is there anyway to make sure my vortec is hooked up right and working? Ill be putting up some pictures later, im at school right now.

Thanks for all the insight.

Oem Fpr -> Offset Fitting On Fmu -> Center Fitting On Fmu -> Fuel Rail

Anyone have pics of a correctly installed one?

Edit: ill have pics of my install later, so you guys can look it over. I just dont wanna fuck up anything, haha.

Thanks a ton, im going to check it as soon as i can.

Ill have pics up later, thanks.

http://a124.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...1e78581853.jpg

whole thing.

http://a240.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...0e50fc75d7.jpg

http://a254.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...888beb0395.jpg

the fmu(please someone tell me if thats right.)

http://a372.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...fda1290883.jpg

Oh, and in that one you can see the bov, and how its set up.

Please tell me if thats right also, haha.

Thanks!

um the fuel line looks to be wrong, is the afpr after the stock fpr is so then you are right in the way it is hooked up if not then you are clamping your feed line and this is not good. dunno with the bov looks good to me.

Thats the thing, i have no idea if its before or after the stock one, as i dont know what the stock one is. i pretty much just hooked it up to the rails, is the stock fpr after or before the rails?

ahh fuck, im afraid to drive it if i have it wrong haha... Hopefully someone can help me out.

i was kind of in your shoes a couple of weeks ago. good luck with it.

ok calm down dude, breath in ---------out ok now you have a fuel rail and towards the rear of the rail where the vacuum line attaches is the stock fpr the line running from this is what should go into the afpr. Wiggle this line or trace it other wise and report back and above all this is very important breath you gotta calm down dude this is totally simple but you need to be calm enough to listen to us. we are here to help.

lol, thanks i was kind if freaking out.


I just would kill myself if i were to blow my engine now, boost is way too much fun.

...checking now

For set-up pictures you can always check out the vBGarage for underhood pics. That's what I do for a quick visual confirmation.

I think Mag-5 has you covered. Do what he says, lol. Theres a pic here too:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/vb...do=view&id=308

no, reverse the lines on the fmu. from the fuel rail to the FMU offset, from the center fitting back to the return hard line.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1170127047


remove the vacuum plug on your bov too.

you FUCKING ROCK.


Thanks, im going to do all that.

That's about as helpful as you can get :bigtu:

Dang 13 hour days, I coulda been all over that answer.

Shes running amazingly, im really impressed.

I honestly didnt expect that kind of power at 5psi, im hanging right with my friends civic hatch w/ a prelude swap (H22A1), my friends eclipse gsx, and i smoked a few domestics.

Few quick questions still.

1. The bov still sounds kind of... i wouldent call it a turkey at all anymore. You can hear air escaping kind of high pitch like, about 4 times. Like chh chh chh chh. Ive adjusted it to no avail, and i flipped the bov around so the line isnt getting pinched by the hood. I dont mind the sound at all, its kind of cool- but is this bad? What can i do to fix it?

2. What psi do you guys think is safe to be running at with only 1.6l injectors, and a vortec? Can i go to 7? Either way what should be my next step for more psi's, my setup is in my sig... I have a Bipes, and when i install that id like to be seeing 10 psi soon, just trying to go down the right path.

Thanks again guys, you have no idea how much you have helped me out through this whole process.

Do you still have that vacuum plug on the lower port? If so take it off. Then just try to let out the adjustment screw all the way and see if that doesn't help. If it does then tighten it back up to the point where it just starts to flutter and back it off a tad.

Do the math for yourself. the max your FP can output is 75psi, so figure that 203cc injectors can handle maybe 130rwhp. And you're probably close to that.

Alright, im going to try that with the BOV, i already did take off the vaccum plug.

Well, in that case what should i do next... Walbro fuel pump, or bigger injectors?

Bigger injectors for sure. The stock fuel pump will flow enough fuel for 10PSI on the greddy kit. Slap some 1.8 injectors or 305cc supra injectors in and up zee boost, befvor ze chermans get 'ere! :bigtu:

60AGS

You might as well start with the 1.8s cause you can always sell them again. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check the strengh of your stock fuel pump?

Get a wideband too, like an LC-1. Your going to get one eventually anyways and this way you can safely up the boost.

AHh, all very valid points.

I think yeah im going to go with 1.8 injectors- but the dreaded clutch slip is happening now. The clutch has like 8k miles on it, and cant even fucking handle 5 psi. It slips in 3rd and fourth right when it hits boost. Oh well, gonna tackle that first i guess, and i think im going to have to go with an ebay clutch since im so poor, and i didnt get the jump on that act one in the for sale place- haha.

Wish me luck, lots of it.

(no i dont have a fuel pressure gauge, and i do want a wideband!)

The pump is relatively inexpensive. Might as well do both at the same time. :bigtu:

Do your homework on the clutch first. Lots of good discussion here recently.

Good luck!

Yes it is... It is also useless if you want to run anywhere up to 10PSI. Don't spend money on shit you don't need. Spend the extra on a second hand NB clutch and flywheel.

He's also got a 17- or 18-year-old fuel pump currently in his car. Given that, I wouldn't say a new pump is totally useless. At the very least, it provides cheap insurance one less thing to worry about down the road.

I'll second that by saying my pump just died. The shit I need anyway. :)

Hmm, very good information..

If i get a second hand NB clutch and flywheel, how much hp can i safely hold with it?

Ill do a search, but im guessing its a straight swap for the clutch?

I might just do that, because when i need to upgrade the clutch from that i can get a stronger 1.8 one.

yeah it's a good idea to do it if you can. As far as the ACT HD kit goes, the 1.6 is rated at 200tq while the 1.8 rates at 233tq.

I'm not sure that he was suggesting you get a second-hand stock clutch from an NB. BTW, clutches hold torque, not horsepower. A stock 1.8L clutch might hold ~170-180lb-ft at the flywheel, tops.