BoostCreep

iTrader: (1)

Savington told me in so many words that I was a moron and was going to pop a perfectly good engine with the way I was boosting so unsafely with high egt’s and leaning at 10psi. Even with mid-high 90s octane and retarded timing. I’ve been reading and know the consequences for being a non-researching ******** on this forum but cannot be sure I have added the necessary band-aids.
My last event I locked the boost at 5psi as it was hot and was still told they could hear it detonating on the long pulls by the course workers... I couldn’t hear it through my helmet. I decided at that point that Savington was right and I better spend some money.



Now, am I missing anything to keep me from harm with this Greddy kit to 10psi on mid 90’s octane? This isn’t a wish list, it’s stuff I’ve already ordered and am installing.

.
-FMIC with 2” piping w/ xspower RFL BOV (got a great deal on it)
-Bipes (cant wait to add a bit more timing finally.)
-olderguy O2 clamp
-Walbro 190lph HP
-Mazdaspeed 265cc - Thin Lt. Prple #195500-4060
-Radiator cover to aid cooling
-coolant bypass
-Vortech FPR with 12:1 disk (assume it came with that)
-Manual boost controller to increase boost. This is a decent one that is pretty consistent.
-Ordered maximum boost from Corky.
-narrow band F/A gauge


I'm on the fence with the BEGI FPR and may make that move.

I am trying to find a used Turbotony DP as I’m 2.25” exhaust except for the DP. I have a new EMSpro but don’t want to install it on this vehicle.
My budget is just about done as I have about 250ish off to the side for the DP. I just bought the FMIC w/ pipes/couplers/t-bolt clamps (paying to have it installed so I can keep the AC) and BOV, Bipes, walbro, O2 clamp and slicks. It’s been an expensive month.

Thanks for any tips.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Did you actually buy all that **** new?

The BOV is going to give you hell on an AutoX course. You spend a lot of time at part throttle venting. Each time you vent, the car runs PIG ******* RICH, killing power and exhaust flow, slowing the turbo, makes getting back on boost a real bitch. It will buck and stumble and you'll hate it.

IT'S A TERRIBLE IDEA TO RUN A VTA BOV ON A 1.6 W/STOCK ECU.

Forget the narrowband gauge, it won't tell you anything useful. Splice a fuel-pressure gauge inline with the fuel rail somewhere and use that as a tool to tune your fuel. At some point, you'll need to get it on a dyno w/wideband... or just spring for an AEM or LC1... they pop up used in the classifieds all the time.

paul

iTrader: (21)

So as you are flying by the course workers they can hear detonation? That's pretty impressive. Do you have one of those aluminum horns connected to the intake manifold and pointing out the side of the car?

AlexO35

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a lot of money in bandaids when you could have picked up an MS and LC-1. That's just me though....
--Alex

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I was going to say the same thing until I re-read and saw he'd already purchased every bandaid under the sun.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (1)

-Atleast the flange will be there and if I find it having too many issues I can put a recirc in. I have a lot of surge from throttle modulation and really dont want to kill the little 15g so I wanted to do something. Hopefully it wont be too bad. I only paid 125 for the FMIC, couplers, pipes, t-bolt clamps and BOV. Reinvesting in a recirculating valve wont be that hard to swallow. I ran a t3 on a Ranger a few years ago at 15psi (xr4ti 2.3t) and no BOV and it didnt seem so bad in that... but I used that for daily driving and occaisional drag racing.

-I too found it odd that they heard the ping and I didnt, but it didnt surprise me much at all.

-Yes, it's a **** ton of money for band-aids, but all things considered... should I be looking for anything else? I do have a stand alone system and harness already, but I'm using it for a different vehicle.

-the only new things are the bipes, walbro and radiator cover. Everything else was used or bought through 3rd party.


Thanks for atleast looking, and your comments are respected and appreaciated.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I agree with Sam, the BOV is going to be a pain in your ***. Sell it (or save it) and get a recirculating BOV like the OE VW/Audi that a lot of people have used.

I'd rate the importance of a wideband higher than a new DP. Spend the money on an Lc-1 or AEM unit. After the WB02, the next purchase would be an ECU and big injectors.

I'd rather be down on power/spool while having good reliability and drivbility. The other thing you should do is slap yourself in the head for running 10psi with out an I/C.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

so ur gonna run 265's at 10 psi???? this sounds like a really bad idea

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

With fuel pressure at 100psi, the 265's will likely be fine at that level. I ran 330cc injectors at 10psi and my car was off the scale rich most of the time (thanks to the POS BEGI FPR)

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^Agreed, 305's at 100psi was perfect in the midrange, leading to slight rich on top running 12-13psi.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (1)

thanks. Appears I'll be okay for a while.

Will the fact that I'm using the Greddy supplied vortech make any difference from what you are/were doing ?

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Probably not. BUT why take a chance? Buy that wideband and KNOW for yourself. You are taking the word of a bunch of internet hooligans.

BoostCreep

iTrader: (1)

Understood, but collectively, you guys are the source for this ****. Hooligans or not.

I'll get the wideband instead of a good downpipe. I'll probably buy it new to avoid a snaggled wire mess and not get somebody's scratched up gauge. BEGI here I come /sigh.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

The Vortech with the supplied disc (12:1) and a 190lph HP pump will take your pressure too high.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

its hard to **** up a wideband...AEM is like 220ish new on ebay last time I checked.