Differential? Maybe a torsen type 2? Coolant system reroute? Just a couple upgrades I've read could help..

Meanwhile, back at the ranch house, the original poster has done more research and has decided to use the original PCV setup with an upgraded PCV
valve and a check valve as long as I don't go over 10psi of boost. I'll also add a higher psi radiator cap. No oil cooler or coolant reroute considered at this time. When warmer weather arrives, that could change if warranted by temps (hopefully not since I don't track the car and significant boost is usually applied only in short bursts). I am doing my front end airflow work before then. We'll see.

To Dustin, I'd say you should listen to the guys' advice. For your car, I think the MS is the best choice. FIC/6 is a reasonable option for certain cars, but it is far from plug and play. The support for them is only fair at best. I am envious of the massive amount of folks who love to help with MS. Add the MS before you boost your car and learn to use it. You can then switch out to your factory computer when you hit the wall on any issue. By the time you add boost, you'll have that part under control and will never be limited by the computer your car uses. I may still do one myself someday...

Regular coolant flow fail does not show up on your coolant gauge until after the damage is done. The coolant temp isn't what gets too hot. Its simply that the rearmost cylinder doesn't get the cooling it needs. The coolant temp can be normal and you still screw up that rear cylinder if you are running higher than stock power. Reroutes aren't super expensive. Lump the cost in with your other upgrades.

Turbofan..Thanks for the info. You're right, the reroute is certainly worth the additional cost if it prevents hosing up the rear cylinder. I have read that when you see the gauge show hot is actually a >hey! it is too late< indicator.

When I'm doing my test runs I have OBDII pulled up along with my tuning software so I can monitor the exact temp the sensor is seeing rather than trusting the idiot psuedo-gauge. My car still has AC/PS, and at this point I have not added my radiator ducting so I am keeping a close eye on this. So far 205F is my max after repeated runs, although that was on days when outside temps were under 65F.

Generally, I expect to start getting concerned when temps approach 215-220. Would you say that is reasonable or as I infer from your post, reasonable is to do the reroute regardless of my tested temps?

You're not getting it: just because your overall temp doesn't shoot up past a certain temp, doesn't mean that your cyl#4 isn't way way hotter than the rest from lack of flow.

But you're not tracking the car so I guess you should be ok even without.

This. It's really just a good idea no matter what. I haven't personally had a failure due to no reroute, but in the research that I've done on the matter it really should be done even on a stock car. The standard coolant routing is absolutely idiotic.

Ok guys, thanks for the clarification, and guidance. I appreciate each of you taking the time to make sure I understood fully...

I have.

On YOUR car lol.

I toasted Cyl#4 on the original engine and no re-route.
All the rods were bent from too much boost too, but that's a different story. None of them snapped or vented the block.

But cyl#4 ringland was toast

Its a small world after all....:eek::eek:

hks2535r + stock 00 block + 12.5psi + pump gas = you're done son