Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

The title says it all. Since I live in CA, the need for that priceless little sticker pretty much forces me to start with a "pre-made" kit and work from there. And since the Greddy sticker only costs $1,300 (as opposed to $3,500) it looks like an attractive base platform

I'm just starting to research the Greddy turbo kit, downloaded the images of the install manual from this site (many thanks to White Roadster for that) and from what I've read I am puzzled by two points...

First, there doesn't seem to be any mention of water lines being run. Am I correct in that the Mitsu TDO4H-15 is entirely oil / air cooled? The version of the instructions posted references the 15C, but I assume that the core section of the newer 15G is the same.

Second, with regard to the oil return line, the instructions reference a capped fitting which appears to be on the right side of the block near the oil filter. I'll have to try and find that tonight when I get home... Apart from the cumbersome hose routing involved, is this method acceptable as compared to the more common tap-the-pan method? Is this fitting on the suction side of the pump or does it drain into the pan?

Thanks in advance, all. I never realized there was such a thriving Greddy / DIY community around!

kung fu jesus

iTrader: (1)

tap the pan.

welcome aboard.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

No water.

Tapping the pan is easy and worth the 20 feet of extra oil plumbing you remove. I suggest the jgstools.com kit, comes with everything you need, minus the tap and drillbit.

I also suggest using a new filter adapter and K&N part RU-5111, you can order from my site in my sig. The GReddy filter bolts are retarded and known to come undone and get sucked into the turbo, which is not fun. Locktite is another option, but I prefer K&N filters to foam filters anyways.

You have to retard the engine to 6* which causes a major loss in low-end power. The Bipes ACU is a proven timing device to help gain back low-end power loss. It allows you to run advanced timing and retards your timing back in boost.

Other than that you should be set untill you get your bug to start upgrading.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Tapping the pan makes for neater and less maintenance. That being said, I routed the hose in the kit fashion. I put a coupling elbow 4 inches out from the turbo and have replaced the short piece now two or three times in 25K miles, as it gets brittle.

firedog25

Road Race Engineering sells upgraded turbos, it looks to me like they'd fit our manifolds and they sell watercooled center sections. Anyone care to guinea pig?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the replies, all.

I'm familiar with the Bipes unit, but I'd prefer to keep my options a little more open. I'm thinking of building the system in such a way that it can be easily upgraded, yet quickly and easily downgraded to the "stock" Greddy configuration for the annual probing. I've actually got my eye on the EMU right now, since it seems to fit better into the grand scheme of things- for one, I can easily dial the ignition back to 6* for the purposes of the smog test- they actually do drag out the timing light and check it.

To keep things simple and easy to manage, I've been thinking about a build timeline that allows me to make small, incremental changes, testing at each phase. Right now, I'm thinking along the following lines:

1- Install WBO2 and boost/vac gauge. Drive car and verify operation.

2- Install EMU w/ MAP, all settings at zero. Drive car and test operation.

3- Install larger injectors (440?) and make appropriate correction in EMU. Drive and test.

4- Install Greddy turbo and intercooler. Omit AFPR. Configure EMU baseline settings appropriately. Drive, test, refine fuel and ignition settings.

5- Install MBC. Test and tune, making small incremental increases in boost.

6- Once system is working properly, disassemble AFPR, remove innards, and install in car for CARB visual.

Assuming all this works, then all I'd really have to do for a smog test is to remove the MBC, intercooler, and bypass valve, and set the EMU for a static 4* retard. Or so goes theory…

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

AFPR is part of GReddy kit and crucial to run in boost.

330cc is max with EMB. 30% larger than stock is max it can handle.

4* is way low with intercooler, 8* would still most likely be safe.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Eh?

From what I have been able to glean thus far, it seems that the EMU (not EMB) can easily deal with injectors in the 400-500 cc/min range. As this constitutes more than a doubling of the stock 1.6 injector capacity, it should be more than adequate for boost of around 10 PSI (0.69 bar) without the use of an AFPR, assuming the stock pump can supply sufficient volume. The only reason I mention the APFR at all is that it is necessary for the visual portion of the inspection. It should be a relatively simple matter to disassemble it, remove the innards, plug the vacuum port, and install it in the car configured so as to pass fuel straight through with no restriction. Paint the new injectors blue / grey and smear 'em with grease, and no tech would ever notice.

As to the ignition timing, I was referring to a 4 degree retard (from 10) resulting in 6* BTDC total. And again, that's purely for the purposes of inspection. Around here, the techs do indeed verify your timing as part of the visual inspection, and since the Greddy EO paperwork says 6*, you gotta run 6*. As soon as you get back home again, back to normal goes the timing.

The idea here is to create a system which can be converted from fun to legal and back again in a short time, and with a minimum of fuss and spilled fluids.

Or am I missing something?

firedog25

Most of the test only stations I've been to just say,"Hey, what's that?" and I tell them and they shrug and go on with the test. I don't have to smog this year, so I have an entire year to get my bugger down on emissions and what not.