Vortech Recalibration Disk?
12:1 comes with the kit right?
I am running really rich, so rich that everything bogs down at WOT. My question is would a 10:1 Vortech Recalibration Disk do the trick? OR sould I get the 8:1 & 10:1 and see what works best? :bowdown: |
with your pump you'll probably want to go as far as a 8:1 disc. Speaking of I need to pick one up soon. Or you can spend the $5-10 extra bucks and get the complete set of discs and see what works best.
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thanks!
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Does anybody have the specs on JR Pump?
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I believe the JR pump is just a re-badged walbro. The big question is which walbro. With the 255 walbro I could not get the base pressure down enough to keep the car from running pig rich. With the 190hp walbro my fuel pressure is perfect. FWIW, I'm using a BEGI AFPR, not the vortech.
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Originally Posted by Snowsurfer03
12:1 comes with the kit right?
I am running really rich, so rich that everything bogs down at WOT. My question is would a 10:1 Vortech Recalibration Disk do the trick? OR sould I get the 8:1 & 10:1 and see what works best? :bowdown: |
Originally Posted by olderguy
Does anybody have the specs on JR Pump?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=20858 |
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Hummm okay? So it's a 255. I am running 8psi right now because at 9-10psi it boogs down because its too rich.
Soo 8:1? Anybody got one they want to sell me? |
8:1 with a 255 at 8psi is gonna fry your injectors. I was on the limit with the 8:1 when I was running 7psi. As soon as I upped my boost to 8psi, one of my injectors failed closed (leaned out one cylinder). My fuel was 100+ psi with the Pierburg and the 8:1 disk (I have a fuel pressure guage with sender). I would go for the 6:1 disk until you can muster some cash for an emanage and some injectors, or go with an adjustable Begi FPR.
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:eek: What in the world?
I have 1.8 injectors. Older guy....help me out. Isn't 6:1 going to run way to lean? :confused: Should I just give up and get a BEGi AFPR? |
i have a slightly used 8:1 disk.
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I would go for the 8:1 and install a fuel pressure gauge. Stop cranking up your boost when you get to 100psi(of fuel).
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thanks!
drftem - PM sent! |
Ok from what I understand -
To calculate your needed fuel: PR²x(idle_psi) + Boost = Fuel Needed PR= 14.7 (atm. pressure) + boost / 14.7 So lets calculate 9psi 9psi = 1.61 PR (1.61*1.61)x36+9=101.7psi of fuel needed To calculate to amout of fuel given by your FMU: Ratio x boost + idle_psi = Fuel Pressure 9psi with a 12:1 on the stock pump would supply 12 x 9 + 36 = 144psi about 30 more psi than required so 9psi with a 8:1 disc would be 8 x 9 + 36 = 108 psi - 6 more psi than required, Corky recommends around 10, so this is close. Checking Pump Pressures:
Originally Posted by Corky Bell
A brief check of the maximum fuel pressure available should also be done at idle. This is essentially determining the pump’s pressure capability. None of the regulators can force a pump past it maximum pressure potential. With a pair of pliers, squeeze the fuel line shut that connects the FPR to the original fuel pressure regulator. When squeezed shut, the pump will be forced to maximum output. Make sure the pressure available is consistent with your intentions. In all cases, the pressure must show, in this idle test, to be about 10 psi higher than the desired fuel pressure, as the available pressure under real load conditions will be less than that measured at idle. This test does not actually prove the pump to be adequate under boost, but if it doesn’t pass this test, it is certainly a waste of time to continue with the same pump.
As far as figuring at when the injectors reach 85-90% duty and what the oem fuel pump can deliver is where I'm stuck. And make sure you calculate using your base idle pressure, I'm sure the 255 lb/h idles with more base pressure. |
With these calculations there is no mention of injectors. I would think that 25cc more per injector (about 12% larger) would change the amount of fuel pressure needed at specific level of boost.
Would 1.8 injectors @ 90PSI be the same as 1.6 injectors @ 100PSI? Or I'm I talking out of my ass? :) |
From what I understand injectors just supply the fuel and can reach 100% duty cycle. You want them to run at 80% or so. But if they can only flow to a certain point. So 90psi of fuel on 1.8 injectors would be 90psi of fuel on 1.6 injectors. The reason you go to larger injectors is to supply more fuel for the higher boost levels. Where 1.6 injecotrs could supply enough fuel for 5-6psi 1.8 injectors can supply enough fuel for 7-8psi....I'm still trying to read and learn more about fueling, but so far this is what I understand.
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Are you saying that at 100PSI the 1.6 and the 1.8 are flowing the same amount of fuel?
When I said: Would 1.8 injectors @ 90PSI be the same as 1.6 injectors @ 100PSI? I wasn't saying that changing from a 1.6 injector to a 1.8 injector would lower fuel pressure. I think we are saying the same thing :) Going back to my original point. Which injector is being used with the calculation you posted? I assume that it is stock injectors on a stock motor, and that it is a pretty safe calculation, even more so if the injectors are larger. Jay |
Originally Posted by braineack
From what I understand injectors just supply the fuel and can reach 100% duty cycle. You want them to run at 80% or so. But if they can only flow to a certain point. So 90psi of fuel on 1.8 injectors would be 90psi of fuel on 1.6 injectors. The reason you go to larger injectors is to supply more fuel for the higher boost levels. Where 1.6 injecotrs could supply enough fuel for 5-6psi 1.8 injectors can supply enough fuel for 7-8psi....I'm still trying to read and learn more about fueling, but so far this is what I understand.
8:1 disc in my setup is just a little lean in some spots and rich in others when I bypass the Emanage. I'm running a 190lph HP. With the slightly larger pump I would expect the 8:1 disc will compensate for the lean spots based on a higher flow at specific pressures. If it's too rich, I have a 7:1 disc available |
Exactly why I spent the extra few bucks and bought the full set of calibration discs. I got the calculations from Corky Bell and I'm trying my best to understand it all.
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When I was running the Pierburg and my 1.6 injectors at 8psi with the 8:1 disk, I was running 100psi+. If the disk actually ran on ratio, this would mean 8psi of fuel pressure per pound of boost above 0 VAC pressure (50psi). 8 pounds of boost (x) 8 psi of fuel pressure= 64psi of additional fuel pressure + 50 psi of 0 Vac pressure= too much fuel pressure!!! Since my fuel pressure guage was only accurate to 100psi, there was no telling how high I actually went. All I know is that one of my injectors failed several days later when I was pinging, and couldn't stop it- even with emanage tuning. Upon checking my plugs, I found 3 orange tipped, and one white snowman. After replacing, and changing my vortech disk with a lower ratio, all was ok.
Your going to be lean in spots no matter what with a pressure setup mainly because of the lean tip in and the fact that the Vortech ratio fluctuates. It doesn't matter if you have 1.6 injectors, or 1.8...pressure will still be too high. I would do what braineack suggested and buy the calibration disk kit with different sizes, and invest in a fuel pressure guage with sender, so you can keep tabs on your pressures. You can use oil pressure guages with senders, but they react quicker because they're meant for a higher viscosity fluid, aka oil. I guess your at the point where you have to decide wether you wanna go with a pressure setup, or a flow setup. Must of us Emanage blue guys, do a combination of the 2.....but flow setups are far more accurate, and support higher boost levels. If you can live with 6-9psi, I would invest my money in a Begi AFPR and a fuel pressure guage. If you wanna go 10-15psi, I would invest in a used Link and a wideband. |
cheapest price was at summit, but they charge a $9 handling fee
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Pop's page says he reached around 140psi with the Peirburg on a 12:1 disc at 7psi, which is twice the fuel you acutally need. But at what point can you tell if the injectors are maxed out? I'm looking for around 9-10psi, which I need around 110psi of fuel. When I drop my Peirburg (thanks Miatanut, that thing should have gotten stopped in Customs with all the fuel left in it and the smell!) in I'll be able to reach that, but when will the injectors be maxed out (I know this is why piggybacks are so desirable...in due time...in due time).
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(thanks Miatanut, that thing should have gotten stopped in Customs with all the fuel left in it and the smell!) That's why I called it a water pump :ugh2: .....I wrapped it in a garbage bag, and I thought I had emptied the rest of the Ultra 94 out of it, but I guess not. Sorry man. Glad it got to ya. But at what point can you tell if the injectors are maxed out? |
:eek: why you guys gata get so flippin' technical on me!
Thanks for the help! |
I have 290cc injectors on the way I'm going to try to idle with.
btw, when I got the package it smelled so bad I laughed out loud. |
Originally Posted by braineack
Pop's page says he reached around 140psi with the Peirburg on a 12:1 disc at 7psi, which is twice the fuel you acutally need. But at what point can you tell if the injectors are maxed out? I'm looking for around 9-10psi, which I need around 110psi of fuel. When I drop my Peirburg (thanks Miatanut, that thing should have gotten stopped in Customs with all the fuel left in it and the smell!) in I'll be able to reach that, but when will the injectors be maxed out (I know this is why piggybacks are so desirable...in due time...in due time).
When I ran the smaller 1.6 injectors at 8-9psi, Pierburg (tested to 120+psi), and BEGI afpr, on the dyno I could not get my AFR below ~14.5 at a certain point despite adjusting the begi unit. I did about six runs each time raising the base pressure and rate of rise until the base pressure was above 60psi and the rate of rise was maxed out, and every run at the same spot on the chart (IIRC around 4.5k rpm), the afr would not budge. At this point the car is in open loop so the duty cycles should be about the same run to run and with no change despite ever increasing fuel pressure led me to believe the injectors were maxed out, and indeed switching over to larger injectors solved that problem. Another big lesson for me was that the car did not ping at all on the dyno despite an AFR in the 15s at one point. In fact, it made the most power and felt great on the road running a bit leaner. It made me realize that even though I was not pinging, I was running dangerously lean without even knowing it :eek: so just b/c something technically "works" doesn't mean it works well. |
I'm going to schedule dyno time and mess around with it. I'll have my trusty pack of ratio discs with me, but an 8:1 disc pushing 9psi should push me to just over 100psi of fuel....we'll see. I'm assuming the reason people go with a piggyback at this point is to keep to pressures down while fiddling with the pulses and this and that to acheive the same results at higher boost levels.
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As a comparison of emanage vs. begi afpr/pierburg/bipes, I'd say two biggest improvements:
1) Better timing control, especially for higher boost since bipes can only pull so much. 2) Much prettier (which also leads to more power) AFR graph. Using the first setup, your AFRs still mirror the stock ECU graph and you can't fine tune fueling. You'll get one area perfect only to be rich in another. Much flatter AFR curve with emanage. I think Bruce had a pic of his that looked like a flat line across 12.5 or so. Sorry for the thread drift. |
1 Attachment(s)
I think this is the one Tom is referring to:
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Yeah I've seen it, very pretty. I've always had a goal to try to squeeze as much power as possible out of it without the need of additional management. Allthough I know full well I'll be upgrading to the Emanage eventually, probably this winter when I have more down time.
I acutally emailed Corky about his calculations I gave earlier: • Needed fuel pressure = ( PR2 x 36) + boost One his site in the instructions for his APFR he does not square PR although in reading some of his posts on M.net he does, It makes a big difference in how much fuel is needed at 8psi. 63psi vs. 93psi. Snowsurfer: Sorry I kinda stole your post, but this is all good info and learning is fun. Phillip: That bullet was for you ;) :dancegay: |
Just ordered the whole set from Summit.
Braineack: Knowledge is power! In this case it really is! Olderguy: NICE map! |
real quick, howcome everyone reccomends the begi afpr over the JR model?
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The BEGi is fully adjustable. I'm pretty sure the JR unit is a static ratio unit. So the BEGi can be a 1:1 or 12:1 FMU, where the JR has to be a 10:1 ratio (or whatever the ratio is). Plus Corky Bell (owner of BEGi) pretty much invented the AFPR and everything else is a mimic of his unit.
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why you guys gata get so flippin' technical on me! |
Alrighty then...I took a few runs with each disk. I even tryed the 4:1 disk but I am still running really rich according to my narrowband but it did make a big difference in responsiveness compared to the 12:1!
I want to be able to "stomp" on it and no bogging down! I can only give it 25% throttle before it starts sputtering and bogs down :vash: Should I just get a 190 hp fuel pump? Or change back to my stock pump? Could my spark be blowing out??? I have Bosch platinum twin-tip plugs. Should I try "cold" NGK plugs? |
Have you checked the voltage on your O2 clamp? Is it set too low? With that pump you might want to run with it closer to Stoich (.47 volts)
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Originally Posted by olderguy
Have you checked the voltage on your O2 clamp? Is it set too low? With that pump you might want to run with it closer to Stoich (.47 volts)
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Originally Posted by Snowsurfer03
Alrighty then...I took a few runs with each disk. I even tryed the 4:1 disk but I am still running really rich according to my narrowband but it did make a big difference in responsiveness compared to the 12:1!
The sensor cannot indicate what exactly the A/F ratio is in the rich or lean areas due to the fact that oxygen sensor output changes with temperature and wear. When the oxygen sensor temperature increases the voltage output will decrease in the rich area, and it will increase in the lean area |
Hummm... I just checked my o2 clamp and i set it to.50 with no luck.
Could colder spark plugs work? |
Originally Posted by MiataNuTca
Where just tryin too keep ya from grenading .......that and keeping a positive image for the Greddy forum people. If too many people brake their shit, word will get back to the Mnetters........damn Mnetters!!! :robert:
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