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End tanks are polished and curved, this isn't a scenario where the air hits it and bounces back, either way the air is going to be rammed into the intercooler or radiator. Thats cold air that we are talking about. With the full fascia FMIC, sure it is missing that 2" of endtank and is going straight through but, not only is the air slowed and turbulent.. it gets pretty warm. Another reason sprayers got pretty popular in DSMs pretty quick.
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Originally Posted by jwarriner
(Post 115702)
If anyone has a problem with me they should publicly berate me, I'll get the point and I won't cry about it and ask for my posts to be deleted.
easier to save myself from being annoyed later down the road :inout: |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 115712)
easier to save myself from being annoyed later down the road :inout:
you didn't do it right BTW. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 115709)
Sam, I -=>REALLY<=- hope that's not indicative of how y'all spend your free time on-base. :gay:
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Use what ever IC fits and will allow you to route your IC piping the easiest. This is probably one area where you don't really need to over think it. People have gotten good results with both large and small.
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Where do you get stripes pipes????? That seem to be so highly recommended.....
Is that the kit on mxrprojects? seems really expensive for just pipes no fittings, clamps or IC for that matter |
mimic it for less if you can....you'll quickly come to realize the price is quite fair.
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Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 115654)
colder plugs = more heat in the cooling system
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Originally Posted by jwarriner
(Post 115634)
Also, when you're drag racing, which has been my prior interest, your IC acts more as a heatsink than a heat exchanger. People would even cover them up (for aerodynamics) and just throw a bag of ice on them between runs, people like John Shepherd ran 8s with an air/air IC that was covered. There is an argument for a larger IC in this application.
$.02 |
Originally Posted by Danimal
(Post 115811)
Where do you get stripes pipes????? That seem to be so highly recommended.....
Is that the kit on mxrprojects? seems really expensive for just pipes no fittings, clamps or IC for that matter Feel free to DIY if you want. I did, and having been down that road I'd say that $240 is a pretty darn good deal. |
Originally Posted by lazzer408
(Post 115870)
How's that? If your plugs run hot and lead to pre-ignition/detonation then the cylinder pressures are higher and create more heat. I'd rather have the confidence knowing that colder plug may save a piston. That's if I'm not fouling it.
colders plugs remove the heat from the combustion chamber and put it elsewhere. |
Originally Posted by lazzer408
(Post 115873)
The air to water ICs help for the same reason. It's a heatsink sinking the heat right to the water. The volume of water in those systems is the advantage they have. Once the water is soaked with heat it's not as efficiant as air to air. I don't recomend them for track use but on the street and the dragstrip they work well. I considered one for awhile but for the cost, air to air seemed more reasonable. Although the water to air IC makes for a clean install and a big "radiator" for the IC's water.
$.02 |
yeah when you run one of these in cabin, you shouldn't worry about heat soak....
http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/d...dynoday006.jpg http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/d...dynoday008.jpg |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 116048)
colders plugs remove the heat from the combustion chamber and put it elsewhere.
Out of curiosity, I heard some BMW used the AC to cool the charge air. It produced more power with the colder air then it took to run the AC compressor. I bet the 'gains' were minimal and a good FMIC would out perform it easily. But you know them germans over engineering everything. Nice cooler btw brain! lol |
Originally Posted by Philip
(Post 116236)
I've got buddies running water/air setups on supercharged cars and the water has never even gotten close to "warm"
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Originally Posted by lazzer408
(Post 116321)
Could that even be measured? If the plug temp even shows up on a gauge there's other issues with the cooling system.
The second job of a spark plug other than igniting the cumbustion is to work as a heat exchanger by pulling heat energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring that heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is a plug's ability to dissipate heat. A colder plug will have a shorter insulatlor nose. This is why it is recommended to go one step "colder" when FI, because of the added pre-ignition surpression. But you don't want to go too crazy with it, because 1. you'll go too cold and cannot burn off carbon deposits and foul the plugs & 2. that heat has to go somewhere. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 116366)
Possibly, something like 70-100°C is removed from the cumbustion chamber with each heat range step.
Maybe the tip of the spark plug goes down by 70-100°C, but not the whole combustion chamber. And even that doesn't mean squat unless we know how much heat is actually being transferred. Degrees is a measure of temperature. Joules, calories and BTU are measures of heat. I'd wager that the thermal mass of the spark plug is so small as to be meaningless relative to the cooling system. |
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1 Attachment(s)
I would get this one but maybe i am biased Attachment 216464
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I read it off NGK's FAQ a while back
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C. yeah Joe I think you are correct, it's the tip of plug....they do such a good job of transfering the heat, they dont operate as warm...I guess this is why it pays to re-read on the subject before mouthing off... |
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