LunaticDriver

so seems i have a pin hole leak so looks like new rad time... here is the real question go with another OEM replacement or go bigger and better or use the good ol drop an egg in there trick?

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

just get a factory dualcore set up from an AT tranny miata

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I bought my 1" all aluminum for $250 at coolradiator.com. Although it looks like they might have gone under. They sold on ebay under "coolradiator", might be able to still get something.

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Dual-core stock rad (not aluminum) from radiatorbarn.com was something like $125 shipped.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Got my all metal AT radiator from NAPA for around $125. I don't have the part number handy but I think they would have it on the pointy board. I've been pleased with the rad and several people in our club have the same one with no problems.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

+1. very happy with this rad

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Price is now $145 shipped in the US. Us people in Canada always get the shaft

Thanks for the linkage, when it comes time to replace my rad.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...light=radiator

steelrat

Hey Jay....

Call this guy.... Markham Raditor (you can yellow page it if not I'll look it up for you)... I got a "OEM style" AT rad for about 150 CDN in stock.... so he might have a better price on the dual-core metal top....

The OEM one has been working fine for me without an IC though.... and the dual fan mod. Even in the africa hot of the gap. <G>

Dave,

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Post #10 in that linked thread is a DIY mantra. If you don't have any overheating problems now, why spend more money for a heavier radiator. The auto rad is a stock "upgrade". The aluminum ones are shiny and look cool but for the extra money I'll take a new set of rear tires.

I just searched over at m.net for about 15 minutes and there is a resounding solidarity of guys who say "if you're not overheating, just buy stock". The extra money is better spent elsewhere... and the extra weight of an aluminum one way out in front of the wheels can't be good for your understeer.

If you're running 15psi in the summer at the track w/the A/C on, then go w/the dual-fan mod and water wetter to start. If you're still having problems, then homework some more solutions... here are some: http://www.miata.net/garage/cooling_system.html
Notice the last thing it says is buy another radiator... and it caveats that with the auto option.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Why on earth would anyone replace their radiator with a stock radiator???? I'm glad I was forced to replace my rad(turbo install damage). My dual core all metal rad is worth every penny of the 125 dollars I spent. The stock miata radiator is a POS in my opinion and would not trust it with a turbo on a hot day.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Read the page at the link I posted above.

Then consider:
1. Your intercooled intake charge temp is close to ambient temp
2. An intercooled charge with WI (which looks like is going to be very popular) should be at or below ambient temp
3. The stockers are lighter
4. The stockers are cheaper
5. The stockers work
6. The stockers will not have any fitment issues
7. The stockers are known to last 10-15 or more years

I would _theorize_ (meaning I haven't put any effort into validating) that a stock radiator with some sort of undercar airfoil (to direct airflow in) and a plate over the radiator cowl (to prevent escape) would well outperform a typical metal aftermarket radiator--and would cost and weigh less too.

I'm running my 15 year old stock rad with a small airfoil. I have no temp issues in Atlanta rush hour (some of the worst traffic in the country) in the summer with a/c on. I live near Road Atlanta. No temp problems there, either.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Let me back track a little...for a performance mod, I would never replace my radiator with a stock radiator. For 125 dollars, my radiator is just as light, works, fits perfectly and I'm pretty sure it will last 15 years. If you buy a new radiator from Mazda it will cost more than 125 dollars and will not be as efficient as a dual core all metal radiator.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

How many 200hp Begi/FM/DIY kits are running around on the stock radiator? Dare I day thousands? The oem auto rad w/water wetter and the dual fan mod is enough for the majority of applications. If you're running mad boost in a hot climate or on the track, then you've probably already upgraded. But for the average guy, OEM is fine (far from being a POS)... and for 5-spd guys, the auto rad IS an upgrade. I can see the only drawback to the all metal is that it's a little heavier. Will the $125 all metal rad last 12 years like you know a stocker will... looks like we'll all be back here about 2018.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

You can get an aluminum core dual row radiator at coolradiator.com for $161 shipped. I'm sure the OEM replacement one they sell is even cheaper.

VRTSid

+2 I have the same one and its great. no trouble.

I was actually worried about its cooling capacity after I went FI untill I started reading most people had oem rad still

John Carrithers

I've been running an auto radiator for two years now in south FL with a huge front mount and have not had any problems. It was definately an upgrade from stock and was under $150 bucks thru Advanced Auto Parts.