pazernaker

OK. There are PLENTY of threads that I've found in this site about BEGi and their kits, but none of them answer a REALLY important question for me. Exactly how much boost can a Miata take with stock internals before I make my engine turn into a shrapnel grenade?

I've seen people talking about 9-12 pounds boost without any mentions what-so-ever to internal upgrades. Can you really go to 9 lbs on stock.

Oh yeah, this may be a little important. I'm driving a 97 1.8L and dropping a BEGi S3 turbo kit (Haven't decided if I doing the MS yet) with a high flow cat and a dual exhaust (Both Flyin' Miata).

Any help would be awesome. Thanks guys!

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

This question has been answered, you apparently suck at searching.

Hint: Go to the dyno section.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

And its a wonder our site group doesn't grow...

But seriously... check out the dyno section and other posts on here.

I know I'm running 10-11psi on a stock 1.6 with a gt28rs and it seems to be a happy motor. At least when I give it to it... it screams really loudly...

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

First read this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21406

Then this:
http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting

Then this:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/search.php?searchid=2205294

Then this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sea...earchid=477770

Then go outside and see if you can kick yourself in the nutz. About 1 in 15 men can do it... I'll bet you can. Try hard. Let us know.

monicaof9

Yes.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

20psi from a gt5554 =! 20psi from a gt2860rs

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

You know, a year from now, some newb is going to come onto the site and seach... and all he's going to find this thread w/ everyone being jackasses, and find no answers. He's going to ask the same damn question again b/c he can't legitimately find the answer and you're all gonna be jackassess, all over again. It's a vicious circle. Why don't you just save the time and effort it takes to be a jackass and you may just be able to prevent this exact question in the future.

I only say this b/c I'm new here, I've searched the exact damn question and I'm honestly still not sure of the answer. Maybe I do "suck at searching", but telling me that isn't going to solve the problem, nor is it going to prevent someone from asking the same question again in the future. It takes less effort for someone to say "x psi and xxx whp" than it does to be a complete jackass, so save the effort, and maybe, just maybe... save yourself from having to do it all over again, and again, and again...

But that's just my pov... go ahead being jackasses if you must.

PS: OP, I believe the 90-97 stock motors are good to ~15psi. Although, like I said, I'm a noob too so take that w/ a grain of salt.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

okay, fine. It depends on a number of things. Different turbos will produce different ammounts of power at a given PSI. The bigger the turbo is the more hp per psi you will get. The accepted reliable limit of the stock miata internals is 250hp at the wheels. Whatever it takes to get you there depends on a lot of things.

I am 100% positive this information could have been found by searching and to be completely honest, we dont care if you dont come back. We are jackasses and a pretty close knit group. If you bitch and moan, we dont want you here. So chill the **** out and people will be a lot nicer to you.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

Wes, I'm not a guru but I'm pretty sure that 10 psi is 10 psi whether the turbo is a 3071, T3, GT25 or a TD04. It's the plumbing, mani, IC, exhaust, tune, etc. that makes the difference in HP per PSI. Different turbo's spool differently and are very different in how efficient they are but 10psi after the turbo is 10 psi after the turbo.

Stock internals can easily take 12psi with a good tune and fuel. Stock internals can easily fail at 8psi with poor tune and no fuel.

Best answer is depends.

And yeah. you suck at searching.

jasonrobo02

iTrader: (13)

Your statement is wrong. You forgot that in the middle of your big list of restriction **** is the turbine section of the turbo.

So it should read something like this:
"It's the plumbing, mani, IC,TURBINE SECTION, exhaust, tune, etc. that makes the difference in HP per PSI.

The fact that the turbine section poses a restriction to the engine is a huge point.

Also as many people say, the engine is just a big airpump. HP is directly related to air flow (cfm). The design of each turbocharger will provide different cfm at different wheel speeds.

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

I'm chilled man. While my post was meant to convey a point, it wasn't meant to be taken all that literally. I certainly wasn't pissed or upset at all. I guess it's just one of my pet peeves to go searching for something and the only thing I can find is people saying "go search!" No harm meant at all, hope you understand what I was trying to get at. I haven't been here long, but it seems the jackassedness is part of what makes this site great.

Good to know that 250whp is around the limit of the stock motor, I honestly wasn't sure and I have searched, and I do suck at searching.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

300whp is around the limit of the stock motor

Corky Bell

Searching clearly sucks. This morning I went searching for my glasses and couldn't find them since I couldn't search very well without my glasses. One of those damn chicken and egg deals.

Power and boost? Damnit, what does it take to get the point across?.... if it knocks at one psi it is going to blow...... if it doesn't knock at 10/11/12.... until power overloads it, it ain't gonna blow.

Power is in part revs. Revs do damage in the long run. Knock does damage yesterday.
Keep the revs sane ( 6500/7000) and tune out the knock. (that is easier said than done, and can get expensive at higher levels of boost)

With all that in order, you can drive happily everafter,,,,, as long as you keep on top of it.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

Well, we all know that if you cant or dont tune, you will blow something up. I think what he was looking for is where the power overloads the internals. It is my understanding that 250hp is attainable and the motor will still be reliable (as long as you dont knock)

edit: 300hp is attainable but you better be damn sure its not going to knock. At that power level, a hint of knock and you will snap a rod.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

i like the idiots in this thread saying 15 psi from a gt2554 is the same as compressor map as 15 psi from a t-120. You're all rocket surgeons. Quit polluting our forum with your ------ry. /yourself. Corky is your dad.

think of it like blowing up a balloon, to say 15psi. You get one of those gay ossilating fans, and a shop fan. Which one is going to fill up the balloon the fastest...thats right, the big one, however it takes more work to spin the fan. Now shut up, I'm drunk...again. Now I have to go tend to this brunette who has no name. If you're lucky, I'll post some pics later, so there's hope...you just might get to see a naked woman for the first time in your life.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

knock and pre-ignition are 2 different things. Knock blasts pistons, pre-ignition bends rods.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

Good point! That is something that a lot of people miss. Knock/detonation/preignition are often used interchangeably.

Knock/detonation are when the mixture burns and then explodes causing a rapid increase in cylinder pressure.

Preignition is when the mixture ignites before 42* btdc

jasonrobo02

iTrader: (13)

Why/How can you assign a number to the definition?