Ahhh OK yes I forgot about the thermostat being integrated into the sandwich plate.

I found this while googling. FWIW this is a nice Accusump install in an LS1 Miata.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/road-r...tall-pics.html

EDIT: Another thought, assuming this is a 90%+ track car... If you can, what if you just take the oil thermostat out completely? For a track car you should be able to get the oil up to temperature pretty quickly (to prevent sludge). I am about to take out my Mocal remote thermostat in fact. If it is a cold day and the oil does not heat up I can always partially block off the oil cooler with something.

Bob,

The thermostat/sandwich plate should still flow a bit to the filter, even when the oil is cold. That said, it probably doesn't flow much. I don't know for sure. You might want to call BAT (importer of Mocal in the US). They have been very informative when I've spoken with them in the past. You can also order direct from them.

Stacking the sandwich plates sounds like a good idea. Actually, I'm running a similar setup now. I have a sensor adapter/sandwich plate right on the block, and then a Mocal sandwich plate on top of it. The Mocal sandwich plate I have is not thermostatically controlled - I use a remote Mocal thermostat that sits in-line between the sandwich plate and cooler.

My sensor adapter/filter sandwich plate is from Moss Motors. It came with 3 sensor ports on it. A 4th port was recently tapped into it. The port is -8AN, and I use it to feed my external oil pressure relief valve. Works great!

An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.

Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm

If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.

Cheers,

Will

I got a Canton sandwich plate with a single 1/2" pipe port on its way for hooking up the accusump. It will sandwich under the mocal sandwich/thermostat for the oil cooler and under the oil filter in basically its stock placement.

If I decide later that having the check valve is really necessary I will probably get a Canton adapter plate to replace the mocal sandwich thermostat and ad a remote filter mount and remote thermostat into the system to do it. I don't really like that solution because of the number of added fittings and bulky oil lines that need to be added to do it just becomes a mess is all and not to mention adds a large amount of cost. I just don't see a better way to include the check valve in the system however.

I’m using all -10 AN lines.

Bob

Here are the Accusump install pics in a Honda S2000 from Modified magazine:

http://image.modified.com/f/29956519...ump_system.jpg
http://image.modified.com/f/29956468...tric_valve.jpg
http://image.modified.com/f/29956471...+under_sk2.jpg
http://image.modified.com/f/29956522...e_distance.jpg
http://image.modified.com/f/29956528..._component.jpg
http://image.modified.com/f/29956525...p+accusump.jpg

Also don't forget this if choosing the big unit:

Picked the spot for the accumulator on my Accusump install. It’s going in the area by where the fuel filter is mounted. Small brackets off my home built subframe brace will secure it nicely. Hose will get routed along the PPF using clamps.

Bob

Bob, not to be a dick or anything. but with it that far back, why not mount it in the trunk? I'm guessing you have something else in there, or you are keeping the weight down low and/or centralized.

BTW I like that home made brace. I need to do the same thing with mine.

1) It is actually not as far back as the trunk.
2) The weight is low and towards the light corner of the car.
3) it is a very stelthy location. You would have to look for it and it actually seemed less dificult than other places no hoses trough pannels or anything.
4) I regularly drive my car long distances with my Wife. I need to keep all the trunk space I can.
5) It is easyly removable, I am thinking of doing some autocrossing at national level, which means for a couple weekends I will convert the car to autocross mode and make it as legal as possible. That means removing a bunch of bracing, the roll bar, etc for a just for national autocross weekends.

Bob

Oy. And have to you go through the hassle of unbolting the FM frame rails for the autocross events? Lots of bolts there ...

Just for national tour. I’m legal for regional stuff. If I win another national tour event there might be somebody who will want to protest me though especially if it means contingency money or sets of Hoosiers.

I’m not willing to make my car an autocross only car though. I drive it on the street and do lots of track days. It meets the spirit of the rules for a SSM car, not so much an XP car.

The good thing is taking off all the track stuff and stuff that makes it nicer to drive will take a good bit of weight out. I think it will get down to the minimum weight. It might actually be faster in full autocross trim.

Bob

I have 14' of #10 hose and a few fittings...maybe its time to pull the trigger and do the Accusump this winter.

It's on my winter list. So far I am getting away with the proven 1 qt over full approach but I would still like the insurance. I'll be watching my oil pressure gauge at TWS.

I will either take a Valium or be ultra-paranoid over turn-1 oil pressure this Friday.

Bump for more accusump info!

2qt accusump here.
35-45psi EFC valve.

Feeding the oil gallery through a mocal sandwich plate on the oil filter housing.

Me brain usaubg and i think for

Starting:

As soon as tgeb motor crabks there is oil pressure. So sterting wear is bullshi

Thrns:

Theres still oil flying around everywhere. Its not the oil pressure, its the presence of oil.

So accusunl poip.

Do you mean:
How are people supposed to read your posts? Are you perma drunk?

Although there is oil pressure soon after starting the engine, it's not immediate, and that's the wear people are worried about. If you've ever been in a NA with lifter noise, you'll notice after start up it'll take a few seconds for the oil to get from the pan, picked up by the pump, through the block, through the head, and into the lifters.

On your average street car, lack of start up oil pressure is a major contributor to engine wear. If we all had pre-oiling systems, many street cars would be looking at significantly increased lifespan mileage. This would cost more money and result in longer average vehicle lifespans, neither of which vehicle manufacturers like.

Trunk mounted 3-qt accusump with a line running to the front via the transmission tunnel. I shielded the line with conduit for extra protection. Works great. Caveat, this is with an LS1, not a Miata engine, but it is in a Miata.