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Accusump + K24 thoughts

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Old Aug 25, 2025 | 10:03 PM
  #21  
rjacobs's Avatar
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Originally Posted by thebeerbaron
I’m a little concerned that the price point from US Solid is too low for a quality part (especially in stainless!), but that’s thinking for another post.
I wont speak for Bronson, but I dont think he has had a single issue with his US Solid valve on his accusump. I dont remember him mentioning it to me and we have had fairly in-depth conversations about various things like this.

Regardless you could keep a spare in your track bag for the 39 bucks they cost. I recently decided on which DBW pedal I am going to use and I plan to buy a second used one to keep in my track spares kit.
Old Oct 3, 2025 | 10:36 AM
  #22  
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For what it's worth, on both KL equiped cars I race in 24 Hours of Lemons and Luckydog, we are required to have the hoses and accusump behind firewalls, so we can't do a manual valve from the seat. With the rapid driver changes, we didn't want to deal with a driver forgetting, and the electric solenoids all failed.

Ours are plumbed in AFTER the oil filter and cooler. No check valve.

We added manual valves, re-calibrated the dipsticks to show what the emptied accusump adds to the volume. we open the valves when we get the cars ready for the race, and they stay open all weekend. I know for a fact these things have prolonged the life of our engines.

All that said, we're moving away from accusumps when I have some time to do oil pan work. The darned things all leak from the pressure relief valves after a short time, and the endcaps all start leaking eventually. I'd never run one in a street car for these reasons... I might consider re-routing the relieve valve to a remote one positioned where a leak isn't a big deal. We put the clamps on the end-caps as they specifically say, and install them exactly per instructions. It doesn't seem to matter. We've also had 7 or 8 of them over the years, so i don't think it's a fluke.

-Nick
Old Oct 3, 2025 | 06:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ncornilsen
For what it's worth, on both KL equiped cars I race in 24 Hours of Lemons and Luckydog, we are required to have the hoses and accusump behind firewalls, so we can't do a manual valve from the seat. With the rapid driver changes, we didn't want to deal with a driver forgetting, and the electric solenoids all failed.
I mounted mine in the boot of the car, ran the lines down the tunnel, and put the manual tap on the inside of the tunnel with handle inside the car beside the driver. Long lines, but worked a treat.
...

All that said, we're moving away from accusumps when I have some time to do oil pan work. The darned things all leak from the pressure relief valves after a short time, and the endcaps all start leaking eventually. I'd never run one in a street car for these reasons... I might consider re-routing the relieve valve to a remote one positioned where a leak isn't a big deal. We put the clamps on the end-caps as they specifically say, and install them exactly per instructions. It doesn't seem to matter. We've also had 7 or 8 of them over the years, so i don't think it's a fluke.

-Nick
I ran that car for about eight years, most with the Accusump. Never leaked. Anywhere. Ever.

Mine was a Canton, very happy with it and the job it did. My sump was baffled, but at one particular track I had an oil pressure problem under brakes, and it fixed that.
Old Oct 3, 2025 | 09:25 PM
  #24  
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I've also definitely ran Accusumps for many many years with zero leaks at the end caps. The relief valve occasionally leaks, but that's been like 1 in 10.

AFAIK, LD allows lines inside the cabin as long as they're SS or hard lines.
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