YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Admittedly my miata is just a miata engine.
I have no heater core. Would not miss the throttle body getting bypassed (unless there is something I dont know?)

Going to add a megasquirt and blower soon but my real reason is I need the space on the front and hotside of my engine bay!

Does anyone have a diagram that eliminates the heater core and gets the engine bay cleaned up ?

I have no problem getting to the back of my motor.

Thanks
~J

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

I'm no expert, but this should get you started:



You should be reading THIS STICKY:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

I took a look at that.
Few things I didnt see:
1. no heater core option
2. no throttle body coolant delete.
Are there any issues with deleting #2?

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

You didn't read very well.

POST #21 of STICKY THREAD ON COOLING:

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Yep.
Was just reading thru and noticed that. Was planning to come back after and edit that.. Busted

Didnt see heater core (yet..) and wondering about the oil filter part too.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The answer to your heater core question is at the bottom of his diagram.

curly

iTrader: (25)

You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't the thermostat have a small flow opening even when it's closed? Maybe that could be drilled out a little to compensate for a lack of heater line passageway? (If the OP wanted to completely delete the heater lines)

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Would water flow through turbo lines be enough?

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yes to both, although if youre eliminating the heater core, you might as well just loop them. Otherwise the "proper" way would be to weld the mixing manifold and rear cover, both are kind of a pain

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a picture or reference of that? My main driver is getting rid of hoses and freeing up space under the hood

brainzata

iTrader: (4)

Man, just look at your heater hoses, disconnect the ends opposite of the heater/firewall.
-Then disconnect the ends attached to the heater tubes.
-Buy a 12" piece of 5/8" heater/coolant hose, connect one end to the connection at the rear of the head, the other end connects to the long metal tube that you disconnected from under the exhaust manifold.
-Cut hose to length and connect
-Now go remove your heater core and crap.

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Im a bit list on half the comments. Part of me thinks it's attitude and the other half thinks it's me doing a bad job of explaining. Here is my current setup


So what I need is less coolant hoses so I can get that supercharger to mount under the hood . Think the $16 reroute thread may be the ticket!!

curly

iTrader: (25)

What's the long line over the header? If that's the old heater core return line, you'll wanna loop that to behind the head, which is looks like you already have? I can't tell.

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Correct. And that's that's primarily what needs to move

YeboGoGo

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know of an alternate to the lower coolant neck?
I am looking for one that goes the other direction

Thanks
~J

Preluding

iTrader: (10)

plug the hole and flip if around if you aren't running AC i believe.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah it's common to flip them. But it almost looks like it is in your pic. Can you light up the lower part of the engine and actually take a picture that shows us something? Take the stupidcharger out of the picture too.

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Yep, I drilled mine out to 1/4", no alternate water pathways for recirculation before Tstat opens other than that small hole. Works great, On a street car I would probably even step down to 3/16".

-Ryan

comradefks

iTrader: (3)

I drilled a hole in my thermostat as well. Also ran my heater core inlet directly to the water pump inlet but put a reducer inline to simulate the pressure drop through the heater core. Don't know if the second part is really needed but was simple and seemed to work.