Is anyone putting wheel weights on the outboard lip?
 

I'm about to put on the TSE kit in the coming weeks and I can't run weights inside the wheel because the caliper sticks out so far. Is anyone putting the wheel weights on the outside lip? I'm worried about doing this and it looking so bad that I cry. Is it easy to clean-off the adhesive? Am I going to regret this?

Also, are you guys balancing your track wheels? I've heard some people say it's not required on track rubber, but all the $$$ blang blang teams on TV balance them. Thoughts?

I've asked the same question to experienced drivers about balancing, seems most do but not all. I balance mine, but that's were it pays to have a 'buddy' who works at an express lube who does a set for beer. I'd say start off with a balanced set, then when you start feeling something funky in the steering throughout a track day, you start to investigate as whether it's marbles plastered throughout the rim, or perhaps a bearing going out, etc...

Will placing the weight more center line of the rim help? Just out of reach of the caliper? Might not be perfect, but it'd look like ass if you put it on the outside the the rim - plus you won't possibly screw the finish up getting the gum off...

Why wouldn't you balance them? The vibration ought to be uncomfortable, and having balanced wheels can't hurt.

You can always tell the shop to do a static balance, that'll only take one piece of weights per wheel and would be better than nothing.

Are you talking about regular "hammer on" weights or sticky weights?

I've balanced wheels with both types and can see the regular lip style weights having clearance issues with the caliper, but would the sticky weights have them same issue?

You never know, you could be ultra lucky and have all 4 balance out just fine, but that's highly unlikely. I've only had maybe 1 or 2 wheels come up 0 on the machine before.

IMO, if your tracking the car then appearance should always come second.

Shit dude for a track whore you sometimes ask some really silly questions.

You remove most any adhesive with "GOOF OFF" sold at Lowes Racing Supply. That or WD-40. Worst case, goof off plus some mild heat gunning will get the goo off.

Hey idiot, I have street and track wheels. I also have a woman sitting next to me right now, you should try it some time.
Sticky weight don't clear
I have 11.75" rotors
I have one "square" NT-01 right now with a 10" strip of weights. You could see it wobble on the balancer. I called Nitto about and it and they said that since I've driven on it, they won't replace it, lol. I guess they expected me to cancel my race weekend so I could exchange the tire.

I'm not the one who doesn't know if glue can be removed from metal.

I haven't balanced any of my track or ax wheelsets in a couple of years. No problems for me. Car is either accelerating or decellerating hard, pulling high G's when cornering, so perhaps that's why I never notice any vibrations?

But then again, I've never seen 10" inches of lead anywhere but in my shorts either.

BRG duct tape, stick on outside lip, flossin' commence.

hammer the wheel weights on the inside lip of the rim only.

it'll stay on better then the stick weights and unless you rim is bent...should balance and feel fine.

If you find a shop that is worth a damn, they should be able to get two rows of sticky weights on the wheel regardless of your brakes. Is there any clearance at all right behind the spokes? You only need a half inch or less. Or am I greatly underestimating the size of these calipers? I'm assuming the inside won't be an issue, but even if it is, clip ons can be used and nobody will ever see them.

11.75" rotors in a 15" wheel with a lug mount caliper.

These 4 weights survived the tse 11.75" kit for two sessions at LS. They were real close, though. I was thinking of pulling them off before mounting the wheel, but decided to live dangerously.

Attachment 189447

did they try turning the tire on the rim to see if it would balance out with less weight? maybe the bead wasn't seated if the tire was seen bouncing as it spun. did they try hammering the sidewalls with a rubber mallett as the tire was inflating? what kind of balancer did they use? they do know that the wheel weights can be stuck all the way to the rear of the barrell in the middle, or all the way up behind the spokes right? sounds like they don't know what they're doing. if the strip is too long it'll never balance out. the machine will ask you to add more weight on one end and remove weight from the other. good luck. i hate vibrations, i would get them balanced right. i highly doubt nitto shipped an out of round tire.

Should be able to turn the tyre to rid at least half of the balance weights, this can only make life easier. And no reason not to use hammer ons on the inside.

Dann

Why not mount them in board of the caliper? Better than not balancing at all. Although I understand the theory. I don't even have sticky tires and I end up with a crap load of rubber in my wheels.

An interesting discussion on the NASA forum on the pros and cons of balancing.
http://nasaforums.com/viewtopic.php?...ncing&start=50

Quan did the work. You could see the tire wobble, the bead looked good, and he hammered the tire trying to fix it.

Well I guess the offset is the difference... My P-car and track rims on the Miata have the sticky weights inboard of the calipers covered with aluminum tape.

Any idiot with a decent set of eyes will be able to see if the bead isn't seated. It is incredibly obvious. I have seen tires that wobble around on the balancer when they are perfectly seated. I've seen it often too.

Also, I've seen tires balance perfectly with a long strip of weights. And no vibration issues to speak of. As long as its not on half of the wheel, then you probably have bigger issues.