Autocross Class Unknown - An exercise in not caring
 

In attempting to keep with my catch phrase "The best things come out of Iowa," I have begun building my Miata without any regard for SCCA classing. If you don't already believe the best things come out of Iowa, then just take a look at Ron VerMulm's E mod Camaro.

Starting from the beginning.

It's December 2014, I had a big fat insurance check from somebody totaling my daily driver a month earlier. I find myself contemplating the purchase of a Miata almost two times a day. At that point, I did what any general car enthusiast does and I hit the forums for information and the local craigslist to see what I could dig up. After some research, I had decided that I wanted something with the Torsen and a 1.8, preferably on the NB platform.

After a couple weeks I found this "gem" on craigslist. It was a price I could easily afford, and it checked the box on every single one of my requirements.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/93...=w1168-h657-no

Throughout the summer, I campaigned the car locally in E Street with a set of BFG Rivals and some Carbotech brake pads (1521 front and ax6 rear). I was always on the pointy end of the class, even with old and worn out suspension. I even won a local series quite handily (though, the classing is a bit...easy to cheat... more on that later). Things were great, I was getting used to driving the car, but I just kept on wanting more.

At the end of the season, I decided it was time to step up a class or five... into D Prepared. At the time, I saw this as the set of rules that would best allow me to achieve my goal of a modest power - super lightweight car. So, I put the car up on jack stands and started tearing it down, getting rid of everything that isn't necessary for race car things.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7w...=w1168-h657-no

A few hours into the tear down process, I had some not so pleasant findings...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R9...=w1168-h657-no

After finding all this rust (on both sides of the car), I decided it was a good idea to check the strength of said rails. This is the result.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mk...=w1168-h657-no

As you can imagine, I was completely devastated. I spent weeks trying to come up with a plan to fix the rust. Should I try to cut it out and weld some new metal in? Oh wait, I have zero welding skills. Maybe I can afford to have somebody else fix it. But then on second thought, that's probably going cost more than the car is worth.

After discussing some possibilities with a friend that lives in Arkansas, I had come to the conclusion that it was most economical to just start over with a new (to me) chassis. Fortunately for me, he had a friend who had just tested the strength of a concrete barrier with the driver side fender of his NA6 and was looking to offload it for a very low price. After pouring over the literally dozens of pictures he took of nearly every square inch of the car, I decided to pull the trigger on it. We met half way in Warsaw, MO (which is kind of funny since he is German born). After viewing what is quite easily the cleanest Miata I have ever seen in my lifetime (aside from the light body damage), I handed my cash over, and it was time to start the 5 hour trek back to Iowa.

Here it is the day after I brought it home (with my TRM C1s on it).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2n...=w1168-h657-no

At this point, I had done enough reading to know that I had just procured the lightest Miata and already owned the Miata that has a powertrain that would support my modest goals. It was like a match made in Miata heaven, but one thing was missing. Racecar parts. In order to remedy this, I called Emilio at 949 up and discussed my short and long term build goals. A couple weeks later, I placed my order, and all this showed up at my doorstep. Ignore the second swaybar, that belongs to a friend that added his order on top of mine to save on shipping.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ht...=w1168-h657-no

So far, a pretty standard "I'm building an autocross car" thread.

This next part requires a little bit of background information about myself. I work as a technology specialist in a middle school. Part of my required duties is teaching 7th and 8th grade level engineering/technology classes. We spent a month working with Autodesk's Fusion 360 3D modeling software. In order for me to effectively teach that software, I first had to learn how to use it myself. What better way to do that than to design race car parts? I started with something fairly simple: a front splitter. After that was done, I decided to tackle rear wing design.

This opened up a whole can of worms for me. What air foil should I use? How wide should this thing be? How long should my cord length be? And lastly, the question that would determine the answers to the previous questions... Do I care about breaking any rules about aero? If you can see where this is going, the answer to that last question is positively a "NO".

After arriving at this conclusion, I started doing research. Most specifically on how to make lots of down force at relatively low speeds. After several failed ideas, and some brainstorming with an engineering buddy of mine, a light bulb came on. That lightbulb was Formula SAE. They know how to make downforce at low speeds.

After reading some dissertations written by some graduate students, I finally settled on an airfoil profile that I wanted to try for iteration #1. After choosing the profile, I did some math. Theoretically, with the cord lengths I chose, the wing should make ~70 pounds of downforce at 27 miles an hour. ~280 pounds at 54 MPH. ~1,120 pounds at 108 MPH. All at maximum angle of attack before it starts to stall.

The second best part about it is that it looks completely ridiculous when attached to the car.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cs...=w1120-h657-no

After getting everything the way I wanted it, I sent the profile to a CNC foam cutting company. A few weeks later, I had some foam cores that will soon be fiberglassed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wa...=w1168-h657-no

Yes, it's massive... and it looks smaller than at that angle...than it does at this angle:

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...pslcqimq7m.jpg

Next on the to do list was to install all my parts from 949 and the torsen out of my 99.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Od...p=w370-h657-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YH...=w1168-h657-no

All suspension parts installed! Let's not forget to put the giant MAZDA stickers on the sides.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2o...=w1168-h657-no

Next on the agenda was to get wheels and tires. Now, before I divulge any more, I'm going to note that I know this is not the optimal setup for the tire/wheel size.

I ordered a set of Konig Dial-In 15x9s (which will become my street wheel after this year) and Hoosier R25Bs in 23x9.5R15. This is another point where I decided that I was going to run what I want and not care about what class I'm going to get thrown into.

Here, have some more pics:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IM...=w1168-h657-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7l...=w1168-h657-no

Assuming that you are also going to do some sort of forced induction since you are on this forum. Not sure why you want to build an autocross car with no concern for classing. You are probably going to end up in XP or some mod class if you get too wild with it. That aero already looks like it takes you out of SSM, but you may be able to trim it to class size. There are some of the fastest SSM cars in the nation on this forum if you're interested.

If you haven't found these already, check out Oregon State's thesis archive. Their aero thesis' are top notch.

Yes, forced in induction is planned, eventually. The reason I'm not concerned about classing is pretty simple. I'm not a good enough driver to compete at the pointy end of the national level, and I have no plans to ever take it to nationals. Having read the rule book over and over, XP has the exact same aero rules as SSM. Also, the tires, being non DOT put me straight into a prepared class. Maybe some day if I change my mind, I'll make a smaller wing. I've read through a couple of the SSM threads, and I'll definitely be taking a page from their book.

I have not found those yet! Looks like I have more reading material for today (since it's raining and the NB is still occupying the garage).

Quick update on what happened yesterday.

Got my alumalite from the local sign shop. It will be used to build my front splitter.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118575

I also pulled the driver side headlight assembly out. It doesn't look too bad.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118575

If you ever make it over to the Eastern Iowa SCCA autocrosses, I'll make sure to say hi!

https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/x...dle/1957/48034
Aerodynamic undertray design for formula SAE

I feel like there's more, but I couldn't find them. Check the Honors Archive.

That aero is not legal in xp or any prepared class. I don't know the mod rule set for aero.

For sure. Usually the farthest East I make it is Osky, but there may be an exception to that.

Thanks! Looks like there's some good stuff in there.

Nope, it's not. If I were concerned about it being legal, I would make it smaller. I guess I should have worded that post "the tires put me in at least a prepared class."


Another update from today. It stopped raining long enough for me to get out and do some body work.

This is what I had to start with. Some metal blocking the headlight assembly from going down.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118849

So I did a little finessing with my 4 pound deadblow and a 4 ton capacity come along hooked up to a tree. This is the end result. It's not pretty, but it doesn't really need to be either.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118849

Next up was fitting the semi-straight fender that I obtained.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118849

Lastly, I threw the hood on for a test fit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459118849

Then it started raining again. At least the day wasn't a total waste. It's supposed to sleet tomorrow, so I doubt I'll be able to get a whole lot done. I do hope to have the hood and headlight assembly all buttoned up by then.

Looks like A Mod aero to me. Can't go above the windshield by more than 6" and can't be wider than the car. The mirrors on the doors don't count, more would door handles, rub strips, or any of that.

EMod aero is no wings. Just a spoiler.

Also..... go buy a welder. Go get a decent 110V gas MIG setup and a bunch of drop angle iron. Go to town building picture frames and such. Do destructive testing on anything you think you did well.

You'll find having the ability to weld is pretty awesome when it comes to making a car lighter.

Except that he doesn't have the required rollbar for AM, so he's not legal for any SCCA class.

You are both correct. I will be running in XP locally, and since I don't plan on taking the car to nats, it doesn't really matter. Knowing some of the other cars that run in XP in this area, I don't really stand a chance at winning the class (purely based on power). If I start winning and they bump me to AM (because catchall), so be it. This year is really just a development year anyhow. If I decide to conform to a ruleset, I'll do it in the future.



Update from today:


Got some temporary bodywork on until I can find some suitable red replacements.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459119070

The only reason my driver side headlight is cocked is because the bracket got tweaked when the PO decided to test the strength of a concrete barrier.

And got my HF tire trailer mostly put together, and started mounting my hitch today (but didn't take pics).

Ride height finally adjusted to 4.25" in the front and 4.5" in the rear. I have yet to check with the Hoosiers, but it should be close.



To do list:

Get seat mounted
Alignment
Final tire clearance
Paint fenders / bumper to match
Mount trailer hitch
Finish up sway bar end links
Brake pads/rotors/calipers/fluid
Clutch master/slave
Radiator
Other stuff I'm forgetting at the moment.

This is precisely the reason I'll be running in XP with the local SCCA group. I don't stand a chance in winning, but I have friends that can win contingency money... and their cars *are* competitive in the class. Really, XP is sort of the catch-all for non formula cars that don't really fit into any other category/class in our region. We even have a guy that runs an electric powered miata in XP (max torque at 0RPM, yes please!).

I have lots of things to get done before even starting on that wing, though. It might be mid season before I get it on the car.

In for pics and details of the electric Miata.

Some of your pics seem to not be working.

I like the idea of just building the car you want though. Too often people build a car that will fit a class, but it's not really the car they want. If you're just planning to run on the local level it is far less important because you're just out there with your buds having fun.

Yes. Build the car you want. It's crazy to think someone would build anything else, but I've seen in.

What a stupid idea. Don't be so disrespectful. You might hurt someone's feeling by not following the rules.

Yeah we get quite a few calls each week from guys new to the sport not yet familiar with all the rules who assume Stock class is where they should go just based on ease of entry. The conversation usually plays out that they realize that a car built for stock class is a car that nobody wants to have, which they would never choose to build if rules weren't the determining factor. I always try to point them to STR which may have a higher cost to build in the end but allows the full range of basic wheel/tire, suspension and I/H/E options that most enthusiasts would naturally choose.

Thanks! I'll fix that in a bit... Evidently Google Photo doesn't like being linked externally.

I agree, STS/STR is a pretty good option for people that want to do "the basics" with their Miata. It's just the crazies like me that have additional needs.

On a semi-related note, I have some question's about how you cut your front fenders on the car that's in your sig. I'll PM you about that, though.


That's why I'm doing it!


Update from today:


Got the hitch mounted... What a pain. I found out that my driver side "frame rail" is tweaked a little bit. The hitch still fits, but it definitely made me re-think my goal of making it quickly detach for racing. Oh well, it's extra weight, but at least it's in a better spot than up front and way high.

Here are the passenger side nuts on a schtick
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459117448

And the driver side
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459117448

And here it is all buttoned up on the ground.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459117448

Yes, I do have a sticker that says slowcarfast in a Mazda-esque font.

Today was the first event I ran on the slicks, and all I can say is holy crap. I placed 10th overall in raw time in a field of 55. I haven't really done anything to the car since my last post other than get it aligned.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463362008

In other developments, I think I've decided to go ecotec with this car. Not because it makes the most power, or is way lighter than the BP, but because it fits my power goals, is easy to source if (when?) a rod decides it wants to meet the outside world, and is fairly inexpensive. Quick note that the Lotus Elan that placed 6th is one of the factory built race cars from the 60s. I don't feel so bad about being a half second slower than him considering his car weighs close to 800 pounds less than mine (including driver) and he probably makes 50 - 60 more powers and torques than I do.

On an even more positive note, I placed higher than the infamous jeep (which placed 24th). Though, I'm pretty sure it wasn't running quite right.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463362008

Awesome. Hope you go with the ecotech. Want to see someone do it and track it all. Sounds dirt cheap as advertised.

That is the second version of the infamous jeep. The "fast" one was V1 and lives in the south. I'm not sure if Del has the 1.4 Turbo running at full tilt yet or this was one of the shake downs. He just had the motor (re)built over the winter.

Please keep us posted on the ecotec swap. I'm putting the LNF version in my XP car and it barely fits. Still have to fab up a custom oil pan. I put my motor lower and farther back than they did. Good news is the crank throws don't go past the griddle so it shouldn't be to bad.

You are correct, this is V2 of the infamous Jeep. I thought about going LNF, but I don't have the resources to do the swap without the kit, and don't want to have to pony up for a custom billet flywheel.

I'm super excited for the ecotec swap, and am hoping I can get started on it by the end of the month.

I'm using the Aisin AR5 transmission from the Solsitce. No need for custom flywheel headaches. The Miata's trans was on borrowed time with my old motor. Transmission mount is probably the easiest part of the swap to fab so far. The oil pan......... We'll see. I'm getting slightly better than a blind guy TIG'g so there is hope.

We were going to do the echotech thinking it was going to be lighter. Even bought one. Then after discovering it was only, IIRC, 6lbs lighter, we decided not to hastle with it and just stick with the BP.

Yeah, I have 2 Miata transmissions, so I'll use those up before I decide I need something better.


It's not even really about the weight for me, it's the torque and availability. Yeah, I could build a BP for the same price as the swap that would make similar numbers, but if (when?) I blow that motor up, I have to go spend another sum of money on a new BP. With the ecotec, I can (hypothetically) run to the junkyard and buy a new motor for $500.

New update, with some more back story/racecar therapy. Today is my Dad's birthday. He passed away almost a year ago now from a number of ailments. In the 90's, he was into dirt circle track racing (which is by far the most prominent form in Iowa). Here's some pics:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465263002

In honor of his memory, I finished stripping my interior today, and installed my new steering wheel.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465263002


That's all I have for today.

Oops.

Now the MZR on the other hand, thats an actual weight savings.

Respect for not caring about classing. The Miata I have now was built for some stock or prepared class (don't remember, don't know anything about that stuff) and it drove like shit. I could only stand about 2 weeks of that before I bought parts.

Been a while since the last update.... I did some things. Got some 15 x 10 6ULs and did some body work (Totally ripped off Ryan's front fenders) fender flares to be added to the rear very soon. Oh, and I 3D printed some vortex generators.




https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8f4391ea10.jpg

And I got a new License Plate.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...76490bf9fd.jpg

Well you know I heart the fenders ;)

Some of the pics of your dad look like a younger Gordon Murray

Indeed, thanks for your help with those, they turned out pretty well. You know, I never really noticed that, but now that you mention it, he does.

Anyway, new year, new update! I finally got my old NB cleared out of the garage, and it's motor swap time! I picked this sucker up today. It's the LEA variant gen 2 motor (direct injection, more compression). With a canned tune, it should make 220ish HP and TQ to the wheels (on e85) with that oh so sweet ruler flat torque curve. The motor has 31k miles on it and compression tested 220 - 235 across the board. There should be some more updates coming in the next few days.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...72dc5f99b7.jpg

Love mongrel race car builds like this. Interested to see how the GM motor pans out. Lucky for you that you can find ways to turn your hobby into classroom projects.

So many new things! Where to start...

With a B6 exiting stage right of course!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a201493b63.jpg

After this old lump was out, I did some cleaning (no pics of that...sorry not sorry).
Then it was time to get the new motor all dressed up. Not pictured is the Flyin Miata stage 1 Happymeal, dipstick or alternator.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...34c41d3c17.jpg

And lets not forget the picture that I obligatorily sent my brother after he told me my car was slow. He responded with "What's an echotech?"
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...81cd087708.jpg


I bought an Asus Nexus 7 for my gauge cluster. Here's the working concept receiving information from both my 10hz GPS and OBD2 reader via bluetooth in my Lexus:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f11d13ae6.jpg


Moving on to the actually semi-innovative stuff that you guys probably haven't seen a million times before (unless you're an engineer... in which case, scoff away). Here's a little ditty that I started designing yesterday. It's the housing/mounting apparatus for the above Nexus 7. As you can see, it attaches using a GoPro style mounting system. It's comprised of two separate pieces (a box and a lid, so to speak).Currently, I'm still working on some features for the "lid" portion, but the "box" is printing as I type this post.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc7d7d1f16.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50f1593f14.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48f3306294.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2605ba486c.jpg



The adapter I have modeled up is designed to attach to any tube that I like with some hose clamps. To make the model customizable, I've set up some variable parameters to adjust the final model to any diameter tube needed.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f54a148a2f.png

Tomorrow is motor stab day!

Moar updates!


First, a shout out to my buddy Joe for all the help getting this thing in. Here's a pic of the motor before we put it in.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c90e89a7cc.jpg

And the obligatory "is it in yet?" photo. Pictured, but not documented: the install of a new, non leaking brake master cylinder.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1370bfd341.jpg

In other news, I did some iterations on my nexus 7 mount, and I think came out pretty well. It's now a 4 piece design (with optional "visor").

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cfdb24b040.jpg

Here it is assembled next to the less than perfect version 1.0.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e4fb7e8a3.jpg


What's left:

Relocating fuel lines for exhaust clearance
Wiring
Mounting CTS pedal
Power steering stuff (Toyota MR-S pump)
Exhaust

Are you using the moats transmission or the ecotec swap kit?
looking forward to seeing it run and see what all you run into.I'm looking into going with the le5 for my moats in the near future keep the updates coming.

Are you using the miata transmission or the ecotec swap kit?
looking forward to seeing it run and see what all you run into.I'm looking into going with the le5 for my moats in the near future keep the updates coming.

Miata trans + ecotecmiata swap kit.

Here's my tips so far:

Clearance both of the "shelves" at the back of the engine bay.
Undo the power steering return line if you're putting engine and trans in at the same time.
Be prepared for clearance issues when dropping engine and trans in at the same time.
Load levelers are tools of the gods.
If at all possible, hook up your starter leads up before you drop the motor in.
Put your alternator belt on before you put the oil pan on.
Buy an angled clutch line for more exhaust clearance like the one from Garage Star.
If you don't care about running stock gauges, there's a fairly inexpensive way (~$200) to run a tablet that reads off the OBD2 signal and 10hz gps.
Make sure the junkyard gives you EVERYTHING YOU NEED the first time so you don't drive an hour one way multiple times for things they either forgot to give you or you didn't realize you needed (make sure you get all the fasteners/bolts too).
The alternator bolts directly to the block.
If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.

Is the firewall sheet metal clearancing just for ease of install? I talked with the EcotecMiata guys about installing a 2nd Gen DI Ecotec and they said the LEA and LAF engines will fit using their swap kit. I'm looking at a TT4 engine swap capable of ~200whp average (somewhere in the neighborhood of 11:1-11.5:1 weight to power ratio with around 2400lbs race weight including driver). My only two options are Ecotec swap or EFR turbo build.

Yeah, firewall "shelves" just need to be shaved a little bit for fuel filter and thermostat housing clearance.

Well that's not good for me. NASA TT4 rules do not allow firewall/floorpan modifications. That would require a "non-production" penalty in TTU-TT3, which at that point I would just K-swap it, as that also requires non-production penalty due to the tubular subframe.

What about the LNF from the sky/solstice? Using the AR5?

I think one could make the argument that they aren't actually part of the firewall, and you don't have to cut them completely off, just do a little bit of shaving.


It's possible, but it has it's own set of fitment and engineering issues. And the engines are pretty pricey.

Those don't work with the Ecotec Miata kit. The forged cranks on the LSJ/LNF have a different bolt pattern, so the flywheel adapter doesn't work. They also have an oil/water cooler built into the block that interferes with the "shelves" on the miata, so you would have to trim them.

Pick a better engine then. The only attractive thing for racing with the ecotec swap is if you have some weird ruleset that allows cross platform engine swaps but allows you to do whatever you want with tune and boltons with the stock internals and turbo. Then the LNF being able to do 400/400 on e85 with the stock turbo makes it like the only good engine choice for that class.

This is my plan so far for mine.
I've see one with that trans in the car, it wasn't finished but it looked like the shifter was in the right spot.the motor was also mounted way back in the engine compartment.

We are long overdue for an update... Here's the rundown of what has happened thus far. (TLDR: Car got way faster)

After we got the motor in the first time, I discovered a massive leak coming from the oil pan. So, out it came, and Joe and I spent an afternoon pulling the motor back out and scraping RTV so we could attempt to re-seal the pan.

Next we realized that the motor may have actually spun backwards, so I had to check the timing. Lord, I don't know how many times I had to spin this thing around to get these marks to line up, but I was elated when they finally did. Not pictured: the bottom mark (it lines up, I promise).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...356fafd1f7.jpg

The next step was to wire the thing up. I decided to push the easy button on this and bought a standalone harness from Alpha Fab in Michigan (great guys to deal with, btw). Ugh, what a mess of stuff.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...14781a95a5.jpg


But, now the fluids are added and she's ready to fire! Here's a short video of it running open header.


Once I knew it ran, it was time to clean up that rats nest of wire and hose. Oh, and get the exhaust work done too.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a327c54de5.jpg

Next thing to tackle was mounting the GM E39 ECU. On the non-direct injection motors' ECU, this is pretty simple, as GM decided to give you some holes that you could run some screws through. On the E39, however, no such luck. 3D printer back to the rescue!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6652abbbe8.jpg

Yep, it's also held in with zip ties... I'll probably change that in the future.

Next came the bracket for the AFR gauge... also, you guessed it, 3D printed. It also holds 2 switches. One turns on the gauge/wide band O2.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bca8b25a4f.jpg

The other switch turns on this...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...335e83c19a.jpg

The rear mounted MR-S power steering unit. I really tried to find a place up front for it, but it just wasn't going to happen. 10 extra credit points to whoever can guess what the mounting brackets are made of and how long those hydraulic hoses are. I thought it would make those eventual 275 A7s a lot easier to deal with on course. Joe thought I was just being a weenie.


Hose routing is super tight.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eae0419d83.jpg


Swap is done. I need to get you guys some running and driving videos. Hopefully this winter is the time for aero.

Here's the results from last weekend's autocross. I managed to place 16th out of 80 raw, and just under 2 tenths out of first place in class.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea99d9f727.png

No idea what the mounting brackets are made from but your lines are 11' 6". Does the MR-S pump not fit where the jack went like the volvo pump I used does?

I'll give somebody else a shot at the brackets, and you're short on the line length. The MR-S pump probably would have fit there, but I figured it would help my weight distribution a little more with that placement. I'll probably put the car on scales to optimize its location.