Yep I keep a jump pack handy.

Loosing 20 or more lbs out of the trunk is actually quite noticable.

Bob

Is the D35 a direct fit? Thinking of a yellowtop myself...

pretty close. i dont mind the weight... i need it to help power amps and subwoofer and such.

You do realize your posting in the Race prep area? I don't think the amps and the subwoofer are going to help much with lap times.

To me having a bitchin stereo in a noisy little convertible that is more about the driving experience than anything is just silly. I have a stereo I can hear it on my way to work It is good enough.

Bob

no. newposts button makes all sections look same.

this is also not the "judge y8s" section.

my driving experience is enhanced by having excellent sound quality while driving. but since it's not primarily on the track, I'll let the non-snow-covered-daily-driver-with-subwoofer crowd take this thread back over.

http://www.ballisticparts.com/

These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

I saw the 8 cell ballistic battery in person the other day and was SUPER impressed. The next time I have $200 set aside for a battery I'm gonna be all over the 12 cell battery. 410 cca's and under 3 pounds!

Do you know where I can buy some automotive terminals for this battery?

Grainger and McMaster carry ring terminals big enough to use on stock cables. I've used McMaster PN 7113K252 when making my own cables. I imagine stock cables are 6ga or 8ga.


I have no idea where you could get metric automotive battery terminals, though.

I wouldn't use anything less than a 16 cell in a car. A 12 cell would probably start a low compression BP just fine, but it seems silly to save ~1/2lb at the expense of the peace of mind that you're going to be able to start the car pretty much no matter what.

Sorry I meant terminal posts. Will something like this bolt onto the battery so I can use my stock terminals?

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....erminal_posts/

I don't see why not. You would just have to come up with the correct metric bolts, as the Brailles look like they're standard.

To be perfectly honest, though, I would just snip the big, stupid stock terminals off and use crimped on ring terminals (with heat shrink and the correct red positive terminal cover, of course).

I'm using something close to these on my Yuasa.

If you are shooting for a 3pound battery, make some note of the stock cable weight and the weight of the terminals.

The best placement IMO would be between the alt and starter with even thinner cables than stock (or keep stock for reduced resistance).

Also place the master switch in the same mix and you have shaved off the last oz from the battery circuit.

Since I'm at min weight with the stock battery and get even better corner balance with some extra lead in the battery box I don't feel that interested. But A friend of mine added a 2lbs battery to his Clubman, a 1000lbs formula like car, running carbs and no alt.

So my second YTX14AHL has died. It will start with a jump and keep the car running. I had it on the trickle charger, but at some point (for an unknown length of time), I was having some electrical issues in the garage and the circuit the charger was on shut off. I'm not sure if that was the major malfunction.

The car sometimes sits for months at a time, but always on the charger.

I also have no idea what sort of draw/drain/dark magic I have going on.

I'm trying to figure out my next move. I like the size and weight and cost (<$100) for the Yuasa. I don't like that I've had two die in a couple of years. I'm currently looking at:

• Odyssey PC680. The stats are not as good as the Yuasa and it's heavier, but people seem to find them to be a good compromise.
• A Yellow Top. Significantly heavier but reputation for taking abuse like a champ.
• Evo2 16 Cell. Even lighter and smaller than my Yuasa and allegedly doesn't need a charger but benefits from one. It's almost three times as expensive and won't work with my current charger. It's bad enough killing $90 batteries; I don't want to be replacing $250 batteries this often.
• A replacement Yuasa with a cut-off switch.

I use a small U3 Series battery for a riding lawn mower in my car. I get them at the local auto parts store for about $25.

How often do you drive your car?

Do you leave it on a charger or do you use a cut-off?

How often are you replacing them?

If you have a short some place you'll kill a even 50 lb BMW monster battery if you let it sit for any length of time. Find your electrical issue and then put another Yuasa, or a Ballistic in it.


Put an ammeter in line between your positive terminal and battery cable, then pull fuses one at a time while sombody watches the ammeter for the current to drop off. This will at least give you a place to start looking for your short.







Also, drive your car more often. :noob:

If it sits for a month I'll have to jump it. Two or maybe three weeks is no problem. After a few minutes running it will be charged and recrank like nothing happened. They last about two years.