Bearing repacking v.some thoughts from repacking day and oil comments
Today I decided to repack 4 of the 6 front wheel bearings I own and cycle in and out of my car to extend life (all cheap Chinese bearings).
I noticed that 3 bearings packed with either factory china-crap, M1 pink, or Redline Pink all essentially "failed". Either there is pick-up and score marks in the bearing races, play, metallic shine to the grease, and knock-out on the inner races. The Redline looked to seal a little better on the inner race but did not cling to the balls when I removed the inner race. The AMSoil greased bearing which has ~10hours on it looks new. The grease is still white, it really clings to the ball when you pull the races out, and you can turn the bearing and see the grease maintain a seal (no knockout) around the inner race and hub. I should emphasize how much different the AMSoil bearing was in respect to the balls being covered in grease and they were very difficult to clean. Now I'm going to repack the rear bearings with AMSoil 2000. FYI, I don't sell AMSoil and have no allegiance...they're engine oil is too expensive and under performs compared to Rotella. |
Great info! Your ball clinging fetish makes me a bit uncomfortable. :giggle:
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 639229)
FYI, I don't sell AMSoil and have no allegiance...they're engine oil is too expensive and under performs compared to Rotella.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 639454)
Is this personal experience or can you cite source reading?
I have 6-qt's sitting in the garage and I'm going to run 3-track days on the AMSoil and send it in, then compare to my most recent Rotella 6-hour sample and make my final decision on oil. I had a conversation with an AMSoil jock and he seemed to think the fuel dilution viscosity drop was something like a standard shear % that's not going to go any lower so he sent me another 6-bottles. We'll see if that's true. |
Keep me posted... Rotella is everywhere here, but AMSoil not so much. Your earlier findings for Rotella are enough for me, but always good to get what works best when it comes to life force fluid.
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Glad to hear you are liking the Rotella in your BP, I'm assuming you use the T6 5w40 synthetic? I run this in my TDI Volkswagen (it is a diesel oil, after all), but I just switched the escort over to it as well. Of course I just found a melted piston so I'm replacing the motor, but that’s besides the point.
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Rotella in motor, Amsoil in tranny. I'll take hustlefucker's word on the bearing ballpack if I ever do it, and use Amsoil.
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Is this the oil you speak of sir hustler ?
Right now I run the redline 10w30 I am NA by the way. I dont mind trying something new and cheaper for next season. Shell Rotella® T6 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ci_sku=8120031 Or this Shell Rotella® T5 http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...t5_detail.html |
^T6 is what you want.
C |
Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 639583)
^T6 is what you want.
C |
This is a bearing thread...I may have to clean house.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 639598)
This is a bearing thread...I may have to clean house.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 639598)
This is a bearing thread...I may have to clean house.
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I sell Amsoil on my web site. as for the engine oil they make a racing oil that is much better than the oils that were tested in that comparison, but its expensive.
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Originally Posted by Gotpsi?
(Post 639637)
I sell Amsoil on my web site. as for the engine oil they make a racing oil that is much better than the oils that were tested in that comparison, but its expensive.
My race cars get their oil changed a minimum of once per event. Sometimes multiple times per event. |
Correct race oils are not intended for street use. And are not usualy leagal on the street as well.
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But this is the race prep section
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Originally Posted by Gotpsi?
(Post 639637)
I sell Amsoil on my web site. as for the engine oil they make a racing oil that is much better than the oils that were tested in that comparison, but its expensive.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx As I see it this is the best oil AMSoil makes under $10 per quart. I'd have to run the 15w50 to get a comparable 100*c kinematic viscosity to the $20 Rotella, and I'm still paying double the price. I have not run the more expensive race oil at all, but if I did and it performed at double the life of the Rotella, I'd switch to it. However, I'm only going to comment on oil I've run in my car and tested. |
Originally Posted by modernbeat
(Post 639654)
My experience with racing oils is that it's not appropriate for street driven vehicles with relatively longer oil-change intervals.
My race cars get their oil changed a minimum of once per event. Sometimes multiple times per event. |
Also if you run a vacuum pump set up it helps seal your cylinders up and pulls fuel out of the oil by raising the boiling point, increasing your oil life.
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Originally Posted by Gotpsi?
(Post 639720)
Also if you run a vacuum pump set up it helps seal your cylinders up and pulls fuel out of the oil by raising the boiling point, increasing your oil life.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 639712)
Have you ever done an oil analysis to see if its worth changing oil hourly? I've shown that 6-hours on synthetic HDEO GIII is doable if your fuel contamination is in check (11.5:1 in my car) and my oil temps hover at 280*f on the track.
I don't -really- have a "race" car. Just rally and autocross. The Subaru rally car gets Rotella T6. I'll use the same stuff in my MX-5 powered Mazda Rally truck when it's completed next year. The autocross car gets Torco. I've been using SR-5 and V-Series-SS. I went in with a friend and bought the remaining stocks from a distributor and still have a few dozen cases. In the late '80s I used to autocross an F-Prepared Datsun 240Z. It was an extremely loose engine with very high compression. That engine got Mobil-1, which was about as good as it got back then. And it got changed out fairly often too. But I was inside the engine about every fourth event. |
Anyone know if NB bearings can be repacked?
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http://waltermotorsports.com/d/1025-...nnerHolder.jpg
Is this too much? Writeup on how to repack hubs. Ill probably make a little video when i do mine this weekend. http://waltermotorsports.com/v/Racing/hub/ |
6 Attachment(s)
This is what I took off:
Attachment 193509 Attachment 193510 Attachment 193511 This is what went back on: Attachment 193512 Attachment 193513 Attachment 193514 |
Wow i probably need to redo those, I just slapped some all purpose grease inside without taking the race out.
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Originally Posted by modernbeat
(Post 639766)
The "multiple times per event" car is a rally car.
I don't -really- have a "race" car. Just rally and autocross. The Subaru rally car gets Rotella T6. I'll use the same stuff in my MX-5 powered Mazda Rally truck when it's completed next year. The autocross car gets Torco. I've been using SR-5 and V-Series-SS. I went in with a friend and bought the remaining stocks from a distributor and still have a few dozen cases. In the late '80s I used to autocross an F-Prepared Datsun 240Z. It was an extremely loose engine with very high compression. That engine got Mobil-1, which was about as good as it got back then. And it got changed out fairly often too. But I was inside the engine about every fourth event.
Originally Posted by Aricjm15
(Post 639898)
Anyone know if NB bearings can be repacked?
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 642560)
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 644327)
This is what I took off:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albumssnow...r/IMG_9741.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/esn...r/IMG_9740.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albumssnow...r/IMG_9753.jpg This is what went back on: http://i6.photobucket.com/albumshesn...r/IMG_9754.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albumhesno...r/IMG_9758.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/esn...r/IMG_9759.jpg |
What was different about the rears on the msm? I replaced my rear bearings with standard issue Napa bearings.
I would give mad props to anyone that can get the rears out without breaking the bearing. The outer race stayed on the hub when i pressed mine apart and everything fell to shit in the bearing. |
Originally Posted by Aricjm15
(Post 646429)
What was different about the rears on the msm? I replaced my rear bearings with standard issue Napa bearings.
I would give mad props to anyone that can get the rears out without breaking the bearing. The outer race stayed on the hub when i pressed mine apart and everything fell to shit in the bearing. The center race coming out with the hub does not mean its damaged. The outboard race usually does not want to come off the hub so I simply clean it off, then bolt it back together. Its good insurance to repack the rear because changing them out SUCKS. |
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