skypilot

Hi guys, picked up the dog the other day and have just rolled it into a mates shed to await stripping. i am building a new house at the moment so it shall be a slow build process.





My plan is to build the car into a full spec dirt rally car. Yep I know the turbo install is a horses **** but most of it will be redone during the build
We already have a few floating around the Australian scene and once the suspension issues are addressed they are a weapon. Yep there is even one with full on Antilag that just sound bloody awesome.

http://vimeo.com/11594474



Anyway the questions.

Water temp -How are you going with engine temps on slow tracks with high boost. Here in Queensland Australia we regularly compete with the ambient temp 80-90’F. The issue is that the average speed in the forest would be lucky to be 45-50mph. My concerns are FMIC – boost and heat with no airflow – any thoughts?

Cage – I know that it is possible to run your lower main hoop legs attached at the B pillar upper seat mount area but how do you tie you rear side intrusion bars to the car. Are you just plating the a rear bulkhead behind the seat. From what I have seen many of you run your main hoop down to the floor but don’t utilise the strong B pillar area. What are your thoughts

Cage – does anyone run their cage through to the front shock mounts or do you rely on the frog legs ?

Rear shock mounts. – has anyone turreted the rear shock mounts so as to give a better stroke length. On Gravel you try to run 1/3 bump and 2/3 droop with 4-6” if you can get it. -?

Clutch – this car has supposedly got a brass button clutch but it has the stiffest pedal I have ever come across. I am a 200lb bloke that runs 4miles three times a week and I would make 5 laps of Laguna before rolling out of the car with shaky left leg. The clutch has done very little work so it’s either a crap instillation or the slave cylinder is the wrong size. Do any of you upgrade the master or slave cylinders with Hduty clutches.

Brakes – Do any of you remove the booster and redrill the brake pedal pivot point to give 6.2:1. My concern is that if you run Antilag then you end up with no vacuum therefor no booster. Or do you all just **** the whole lot off and throw a bias pedal box in ??

Well that’s it for the moment I know you are mostly circuit runners but car dynamics and are the same no matter what the surface .

Have a great day

Justin

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Dirt/short track racers run triple pass double core aluminum radiators on small blocks for cooling and they get little airflow primarily because they're bunched up a lot of the time. The ford style design works with a Miata for the inlet/outlet positions and fits in the size of 19" high by 22" wide. That would leave space next to it for a relatively large oil cooler- or you could just run a wider model, but I'd think the oil cooler would be preferred in your case.

Most sanctioning bodies here only allow 6 mounting points to the car, with unlimited internal bars beyond the minimum required for structure. Most of the good cages I've seen actually place the foot of the mounting point on a pedestal which is built on the rocker rail. IF you place the feet of the rear hoop at the B pillar base (package shelf height) then you are relying on the car's structure from that point down to the base of the car. Most would rather have single hoop that extends beyond the driver's "area" from bottom to top.

Typical approach to increasing shock travel in the rear is using an aftermarket shock hat (ISC) which is similar to what you're suggesting.


I crewed for a Miata road race team that had the brake booster go out in the early laps of a four hour race. They ran the entire race like that and in the end said they preferred the feel over the booster and would leave like that IF they were in better shape. So I think your solution is definitely viable given a better ratio.

chokeasphyxia

iTrader: (8)

That video is bad-***, good luck with build man.

skypilot

thanks Rob,

I agree with you on the hoop legs, I might still fillet to the b pillar when I get going. Our regs allow tagging to the car as much as you want. They are basically a FIA take off, you can down load them here

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/10_gen_req.asp the cage is sched J.

The pedestal is a great idea as it lets you get the main hoop as close as possible to the roof. When i built my hyundai Rally car I drilled through the car structure so as to be able to weld the top of the cage, the build thread is

here http://www.excelrally.com.au/forum/s...p?t=318&page=2



still the cage worked



how awsome is it that the miata is a convertable

standy by for 1000's of other stupid questions

Justin

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Speaking of Hyundai- I race against their north american factory team Tiburons. They documented the builds on the web and showed all the Tiburons with roofs removed for cage installs. Nice. And yes, Miata cage builders do the same. Hope you document your Miata build as nicely as the Excel.