Brake question...
11-06-2013, 12:07 PM
#41
I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. I took a chance on the StopTech's, and they've greatly exceeded my expectations. They feel exactly the same, hot or cold. My current setup is 10psi/185RWHP driving intermediate-level HPDE on 205/50-15 Rivals with OEM 1.8 brakes. I'm faster than the Mustangs and Corvettes in my group. These will work just fine for your first track day.
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11-06-2013, 01:33 PM
#42
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I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. I took a chance on the StopTech's, and they've greatly exceeded my expectations. They feel exactly the same, hot or cold. My current setup is 10psi/185RWHP driving intermediate-level HPDE on 205/50-15 Rivals with OEM 1.8 brakes. I'm faster than the Mustangs and Corvettes in my group. These will work just fine for your first track day.
Good lord ^^ this. I'm running ATE SuperBlue atm. Brake fluid becomes rather important when you start running track days, it really shouldn't be overlooked. Flush it often, it does make a difference.
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11-06-2013, 02:34 PM
#43
One thing I can say for sure is that I have about 15 track hours and a few thousand street miles with the StopTechs and have no complaints.
When I'm at the track, I see StopTech all over the place on Corvettes and other non-Miatas. It seems we are not the corporate target. StopTech markets their own calipers and BBK's and their dedicated race pads seem tailored to those. Don't know if they would fit Wilwoods. If their "Street" pad is any indication, their race pads are probably really good.
Most brake "fade" reported by track novices is actually boiling of contaminated fluid.
Last edited by hornetball; 11-06-2013 at 06:54 PM.
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11-06-2013, 07:54 PM
#44
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Appreciate all the comments guys, I will be sure to change the fluid, will get some superblue if it's in the budget.
Will go with the Centric(StopTech) pads for the mean time, get better track pads for the next season.
However one question, on Miata.net(
) a thread there stated that the sport brakes require the sport front brake lines. Can anyone verify this? I'd love to just buy some stainless braided lines and get it over with but that's another $100
Will go with the Centric(StopTech) pads for the mean time, get better track pads for the next season.
However one question, on Miata.net(
) a thread there stated that the sport brakes require the sport front brake lines. Can anyone verify this? I'd love to just buy some stainless braided lines and get it over with but that's another $100
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11-06-2013, 11:57 PM
#45
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Another question for you guys, found a sport brake booster, but need to egt a master cylinder.
What would you suggest? Autozone has the new (Fenco) ms for $60, new (Centric) for $75 on rockauto, and amazon has the reman (Cardon) for $75
What would you suggest? Autozone has the new (Fenco) ms for $60, new (Centric) for $75 on rockauto, and amazon has the reman (Cardon) for $75
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11-07-2013, 12:39 AM
#46
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Too add to the pot, hope you guys have insight on this
Some interesting brake information (tech!) - MX-5 Miata Forum
The booster I will be getting is Sport with ABS, as that states the booster ratio is 9.7:1, were as the msm and non abs sport boosters are 6.4:1
Would using a smaller master cylinder reduce the boosters ratio? Bring the feeling closer to the 6.4:1 of the msm and sport non abs?
Some interesting brake information (tech!) - MX-5 Miata Forum
The booster I will be getting is Sport with ABS, as that states the booster ratio is 9.7:1, were as the msm and non abs sport boosters are 6.4:1
Would using a smaller master cylinder reduce the boosters ratio? Bring the feeling closer to the 6.4:1 of the msm and sport non abs?
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11-07-2013, 10:24 AM
#47
Wow. All these confusing questions. Personally, I like the 1.8 brakes with good pads and fluid. Common/effective/inexpensive/easy to maintain. If/when I need to upgrade (I'll know when it's time -- I'm not there yet), I'll be calling Andrew or Emilio and going with their recommendations.
As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.
I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.
$.02
As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.
I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.
$.02
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11-07-2013, 12:34 PM
#48
Wow. All these confusing questions. Personally, I like the 1.8 brakes with good pads and fluid. Common/effective/inexpensive/easy to maintain. If/when I need to upgrade (I'll know when it's time -- I'm not there yet), I'll be calling Andrew or Emilio and going with their recommendations.
As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.
I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.
$.02
As for the master cylinder . . . which one comes with the lifetime warranty? They're pretty simple/hard to screw up. I wouldn't fear the zone on that one. Of course, when you're doing all this mixing and matching things get more complicated.
I suspect once you get on track you'll realize that you should have kept it simple and put the emphasis on the nut behind the wheel.
$.02
Too much for first time out ever if you ask me...
I would stick with 1.8 master/booster since you are still using 1.8 calipers. Or do a lot of reading on pedal feel with sport master/booster on 1.8 calipers. You will want to make sure you are not going to have too hard of a pedal if you drop the booster.
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11-07-2013, 01:49 PM
#49
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+1
While you are just starting out, there is nothing "wrong" with your braking system that needs to be "fixed" at this point. Don't overthink it. Don't fall into the "I need to spend more money" trap. Take care of all your maintenance items you need to catch up on first. Get new rotors and something better than DD pads and flush the hell out of your system with some good high temp (Dot 4/5, ATE, whatever) and just go out and have fun and learn.
Once you get to the point where you can destroy a set of pads/rotors in one or two events, THEN start looking at upgrades. Not for "better" braking but for longevity.
While you are just starting out, there is nothing "wrong" with your braking system that needs to be "fixed" at this point. Don't overthink it. Don't fall into the "I need to spend more money" trap. Take care of all your maintenance items you need to catch up on first. Get new rotors and something better than DD pads and flush the hell out of your system with some good high temp (Dot 4/5, ATE, whatever) and just go out and have fun and learn.
Once you get to the point where you can destroy a set of pads/rotors in one or two events, THEN start looking at upgrades. Not for "better" braking but for longevity.
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11-07-2013, 02:21 PM
#51
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Listen to these guys and K.I.S.S.
The only reason I did all the brake stuff before my 1st track day was previous track experience on 2 wheels.
As a beginner on street tires, fresh fluid is likely all you need.
The only reason I did all the brake stuff before my 1st track day was previous track experience on 2 wheels.
As a beginner on street tires, fresh fluid is likely all you need.
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11-07-2013, 02:36 PM
#52
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Well yeah, don't use it if you don't plan to bother with flushing your DOT 3/4 system properly.
DOT 5 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
But you are right, I probably shouldn't have mentioned DOT 5 in this context. 
Just order ATE from Trackspeed or RBF600 from 949 and flush your old **** fluid out with a vengeance.
DOT 5 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Originally Posted by Teh Wikiwhatsit
Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure
Just order ATE from Trackspeed or RBF600 from 949 and flush your old **** fluid out with a vengeance.
Last edited by EO2K; 11-07-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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11-07-2013, 07:58 PM
#54
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Here is my problem, I have a 1.6 Miata with a 1.8l. Not much more power but enough, also plans for more in the near future.
As my brakes are now, I have shitty pads and shitty rotors that I got on the car. On the street I must brake early and I follow at much greater distances because my braking is very poor. Fresh wilwood fluid.
I have already bought the sport calipers, brackets, just need to buy the rotors and pads which I will be doing Friday. Bought the booster last night, should be here early to mid next week. The only link now is the master cylinder, thus the question I asked, my master is new but not sure how it will work with the new booster.
MY philosophy(sort of), shitty 1.6 brakes that will deffinetly need to be replaced in the near future. Why waste money on them when I can upgrade now and be much better off.
I do appreciate the help and insight on everything....
As my brakes are now, I have shitty pads and shitty rotors that I got on the car. On the street I must brake early and I follow at much greater distances because my braking is very poor. Fresh wilwood fluid.
I have already bought the sport calipers, brackets, just need to buy the rotors and pads which I will be doing Friday. Bought the booster last night, should be here early to mid next week. The only link now is the master cylinder, thus the question I asked, my master is new but not sure how it will work with the new booster.
MY philosophy(sort of), shitty 1.6 brakes that will deffinetly need to be replaced in the near future. Why waste money on them when I can upgrade now and be much better off.
I do appreciate the help and insight on everything....
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11-08-2013, 11:18 AM
#57
Oh, I get it. For some reason I though you had a 94+ car.
If you're doing sport brakes, I would try to do it all the way -- install the system like Mazda designed it without mixing/matching. Sounds like the only part you're missing now is the MC, and I would try to get the correctly matching MC. Caveat that I have no direct, personal experience with the sport brakes.
As for DOT5, avoid silicone in breasts and brakes.
If you're doing sport brakes, I would try to do it all the way -- install the system like Mazda designed it without mixing/matching. Sounds like the only part you're missing now is the MC, and I would try to get the correctly matching MC. Caveat that I have no direct, personal experience with the sport brakes.
As for DOT5, avoid silicone in breasts and brakes.
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11-08-2013, 11:29 AM
#58
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Worthwhile point, use a Sport booster, but get a NON-ABS Master cylinder.
I've got an unsightly mess of junk under my hood after picking up a used ABS sport master cylinder. I'm going to live with it for now, because I'll eventually go manual with dual master cylinders.
I've got an unsightly mess of junk under my hood after picking up a used ABS sport master cylinder. I'm going to live with it for now, because I'll eventually go manual with dual master cylinders.
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11-08-2013, 12:24 PM
#60
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NA's all used a 7/8" bore master cylinder
NB's all used a 15/16" more master cylinder
The normal NB and sport WITH abs have a greater booster ratio, which makes the pedal easier to push, moves easier with less effort.
The sport non abs and msm used a booster with a smaller ratio, less than the other one but greater than the na boosters.
Using a smaller master with a greater booster ratio isn't going to do what I want it too really. It would require less force and input much greater pressure.
So I need to use the 15/16" master, I will use the booster I already bought for now, it should make the brakes feel like a stock NB's brakes. Pedal feel anyhow, when I find another booster I will buy it.
NB's all used a 15/16" more master cylinder
The normal NB and sport WITH abs have a greater booster ratio, which makes the pedal easier to push, moves easier with less effort.
The sport non abs and msm used a booster with a smaller ratio, less than the other one but greater than the na boosters.
Using a smaller master with a greater booster ratio isn't going to do what I want it too really. It would require less force and input much greater pressure.
So I need to use the 15/16" master, I will use the booster I already bought for now, it should make the brakes feel like a stock NB's brakes. Pedal feel anyhow, when I find another booster I will buy it.
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