Broken diff housing
4 Attachment(s)
I put my car up on the lift and happened to notice this. Diff arm cracked right through the machined in break here feature. I hadn’t noticed anything weird but from the fracture surface it doesn’t look like it was broken all the way through for very long. Might have broken my last autocross run last weekend and I just happened to see it. Anybody else breaking these? I cringe every time I see people jacking up there car by the diff and It is something I’ve never done.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...2-1024x768-jpg |
Many break there, thats why everyone uses the FC housings. P.S. I have some for sale!
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jacking by the diff isn't going to do that.
but that's a factory break point so you don't ruin the motor/drivetrain on a rear end collision |
Originally Posted by pitobread
(Post 1047089)
Many break there, thats why everyone uses the FC housings. P.S. I have some for sale!
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2 Attachment(s)
Yes. When I swapped in my RX7 clutch diff I used the 7 housing/ring and the miata nose/pinion.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377455044 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377455275 http://imageshack.us/a/img691/1412/dsc01107n.jpg |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1047097)
jacking by the diff isn't going to do that.
but that's a factory break point so you don't ruin the motor/drivetrain on a rear end collision FWIW looks like the crack initiated at the top slot. |
Wow not only does the RX7 one not have a notch and looks beefier its got a big flat spot that looks like it was made to be a jack point.
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Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1047101)
I never Jack by the Diff.
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1047103)
Wow not only does the RX7 one not have a notch and looks beefier its got a big flat spot that looks like it was made to be a jack point.
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Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1047103)
Wow not only does the RX7 one not have a notch and looks beefier its got a big flat spot that looks like it was made to be a jack point.
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1 Attachment(s)
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I broke mine exactly like that with my f20c. I didn't fuck around with it I'm ordering boosfrog 8.8 diff bracket tomorow
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The Rx7 one looks heavier. If I find it to be a problem on my car I'll fully box the arms and send it out to be re-heat treated.
I'm not sure how people jack by the diff. Even with my super long reach ultra low HF racing jack I cant reach it, the jack hits the stock 94+ "cannon brace" before I get in far enough. When I jack the rear I jack from the rear most bolt of that brack. Hasn't bent anything yet. |
I've seen two like that. Sporting the RX-7 one now.
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Theseus has had an FC housing for a few years now.
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What causes these failures, axle tramp...hoosiers......+300 WHP...Auto X only?
Having built and continuing to develop my circuit racing car. I am interested to know if this is something that should be on my radar or not? |
Originally Posted by mx5-kiwi
(Post 1047241)
What causes these failures, axle tramp...hoosiers......+300 WHP...Auto X only?
Having built and continuing to develop my circuit racing car. I am interested to know if this is something that should be on my radar or not? So I Guess I found another weak point. I have already determined the inner CV’s wear out fairly rapidly. About half a season and the balls imbed themselves into the outer cup and they start developing lots of slop. I suspect Mazdaspeed axles would fix that. |
Given the location of the relief notches the housing must be snapping from front to rear movement of the drive train. What kind of motor mounts are you guys who broke em running?
Would something like this help? Joy Fast PPF performance bars - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters It would stop the twisting and front to rear movement of the drive train. |
I have one of those but a Beatrush one. I bought it to try and alleviate axle tramp in the damp conditions of my first race but quickly took it off becaues in the wet the transition from grip to no grip was instant and undetectable, on the road....frightening. Can't imagine it being better on the track..
I do wonder if it is an improvement to the standard setup in the dry though....in for anyones experiences.... I haven't had a chance to do a back to back test, due to combination of building car and the wet winter has prevented much driving/testing....but intend to at some point. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1047212)
The Rx7 one looks heavier. If I find it to be a problem on my car I'll fully box the arms and send it out to be re-heat treated.
I'm not sure how people jack by the diff. Even with my super long reach ultra low HF racing jack I cant reach it, the jack hits the stock 94+ "cannon brace" before I get in far enough. When I jack the rear I jack from the rear most bolt of that brack. Hasn't bent anything yet. sounds like someone belongs in the CR slammed thread. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1047248)
Given the location of the relief notches the housing must be snapping from front to rear movement of the drive train. What kind of motor mounts are you guys who broke em running?
Would something like this help? Joy Fast PPF performance bars - MiataRoadster - High-performance customer service...and parts for Roadsters It would stop the twisting and front to rear movement of the drive train. |
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