psreynol

no big issues, but I have a bunch of little things to do.

basics I discovered.

minor issues
-my Stance suspension kinda sucks, but that is not really a surprise.
- my rear RB sway bar is a little thick, if I pull a corner at all the tail comes out, going to try stock, got one for 20 bucks.
-need a better oil cooler, or a relocation or better ducting. oil temps got up to 250, then I did half a cool down lap.
-getting some major heat soak, need to do some testing
-brakes got a little spongy but not that bad. will add vents to start with
- hard dog roll bar harness attachment point failed tec, had to pull the seat and attach the stock seat belt so I miss my first session.


one tire rubbed a little, the previous owner trimmed the front fender so I going to trim a little more on the driver side to make it work.


the good

I installed a track speed engineering radiator and the coolant reroute and built a under tray. water temp was a non issue. I cant compare to the koyo unit the car had but overall I'm very pleased with its performance on track.

stage 8, inconel studs and resbond. no problems here so money well spent.


over all it went pretty good for a first event, nothing broke, zero oil leaks, no coolant leaks

matthewdesigns

iTrader: (8)

Which track? What brakes? What's your oil cooler setup look like now?

My only time on track with my car was before my brake upgrade and they flat out sucked.

curly

iTrader: (25)

More on this? The harness bar failed but the roll bar mounted in the same location didn't? And the stock belts, also bolted in the same location, were ok?

stinkycheezmonky

250* oil temp isn't bad at all, FYI. Be concerned when it nears 300*.

psreynol

when I got the car it was set up with a 4pt, but the cam lock was compatible with a 6pt so I bought just pt 5 and 6, and left it alone. the hard dog roll bar does not have a horizontal bar. I ordered the harness bar had on but had not yet installed it. the harness was mounted to a tab on the roll bar, not the stock seat belt location.

the issue NASA tech had, was not the harness or the attachment point but the angle from the mount to the strap pass through on the seat can be no greater than 20 degrees I think the guy said. he said, remove the harness and set up the stock belt. I wish he would have asked to just move the pick up points to the stock seatbelt spot. but whatever they have a lot of cars to look at. whatever it is for safety, but they did not look at anything on the car at all just my seat setup. they looked under the hood and said, this thing should go ok, have any brakes? yeah got brakes I said.

psreynol

If you can look at my picture poster I have a sandwich adapter with 2 ports for senders, pressure and temp. then it goes to 10an stainless to a standalone mocal thermostat ( i used it because that is what I had from another car) then it goes to a small 5x5x2 setrab core. I think I'm going to build some ducting and move the core to the wheel wheel where it can get some clean air.


I run motul 600 fluid, and the good win racing brake kit. the brakes got a little soft but then I discovered a minor fluid leak, which means I need some new seals,

I am pretty shocked at how well the brakes work, I was freakin leaking brake fluid and the car still stopped awesome.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

Interesting, different manufacturers list different angles (Scroth says 20*).

Never really complained about mine and I think its probably closer to 25-30*. I am not sure I would have made you use the stock belts though, that seems more dangerous than a 5/6pt, but I am probably not the best person to judge this.


I don't know about that. I would be getting worried at 270*

psreynol

yeah the oil I run motul 300v is tested to over 300. it is high temp endurance racing oil. I've always had oil coolers that always kept the car right around 200 all day on track so seeing 250 260 freaked me out a little.

so how near 300 do you think? 280 still ok? my gauge goes to 350 for some reason

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

What are your spring rates?

psreynol

swift springs 8000f 6000r

stinkycheezmonky

Most of the oils I've seen tested on Bobistheoilguy break down right around 300*. However, yeah, I start watching real close when it gets in the 280* range. 250* is certainly no big deal, and 200* I'd be worried about being too cold.

psreynol

well perhaps, I tracked a car relentlessly for about 6 years and it never went above about 220 and the engine was mint when I sold it. yeah Ive heard 200 is a little cold, but with a light weight oil I think it is fine. they make the oil thermostats open at 180 for a reason right?

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

yep, I think I just get worried earlier. while I am certainly not going to do a tear-down and rebuild at 250*, I think 300* much closer to fucked than "I should start worrying".

Anyways, as you will notice in a couple of threads, the temperatures that most people start to worry at is different from person to person, but generally 300* is the maximum and I would back off 30* before that.

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

That seems really stiff

psreynol

no it is not ft lbs. its kg or whatever, its approximately like 500 ft front, 300 rear in ft lbs

stinkycheezmonky

220-230* is what I've heard as ideal for oil temp. I wouldn't base ultimate hot oil temps on when the thermostat opens, as consideration is given to warming up the car with that. I've run a little bit around 300* (few sessions with the 280* gauge pegged) and it wasn't the end of the world, but I wasn't totally comfortable either.

Track, you're totally right, different strokes for different folks Oil choice has a lot to do with that also.

The "8K" of a spring is 8kg/mm. Multiply by ~56 to get lbs/in.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Those are 448/337 lb/in springs. That's going to be way too much rear spring for those sways or way too much rear sway for those springs depending how you want to address it. You should be seeing oversteer with your combo and it sounds like you are.

A better match for the grip of your NT01s would be going to 550lb fronts with your current rears and keeping the RB rear bar, if your shocks are good enough. With 450lb front springs, similar sways, and less sticky tires than you I was on the bumpstops in hard cornering at the track. No bueno. I learned my lesson.

psreynol

thanks for the help with the spring rates. I was thinking about buying at least one set of springs but hung up on other stuff. just wanted to see how it went. I was thinking about putting the front springs on the rear and buying a new set of fronts but that might be too much for the shocks.

I need to get a dyno chart for these dampers, I really not sure they had handle super aggressive springs though a rep said they would be ok.

yeah, it was not the best but I was able to drive around the issues. any mid corner correction before track out and the back end would start to step. I knew I was going to have some issues but it wasn't THAT bad. I just had to pay attention. I know the track pretty well so that makes it easy. autobahn south (someone asked.)

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

what front sway bar are you running? I think if you put in a RB front sway, you will go back to a semi-neutral balance. Whats the mm thickness on an RB rear? never read about them really.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Get two of these for the front for $70 total and it will be fine. You can leave the rear sway alone. Balance will be yours.