OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

very much so. if willywood is better then stock is debatable.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

holy moly! is that really moving .2" and that's cold. imagine if the material is @300*

Darbymx5

yes I bled all 4 bleeder valves. I even tapped the caliper with a rubber hammer as suggested to convince any bubbles to come up. When I first put on my wilwoods and bled the brakes I took it out for a test drive, all excited about my new brakes only to turn right around and head back to shop the first time I felt them because they were so spongy. I was surprised that after bleeding a 2nd, then test drive, 3rd, then test drive, and even 4th bleeding attempt (yes back to front) that there was no air in the lines. I also tried a motive power bleeder to be 100%. I even got a new master, bench bled it, and bled every thing again with no improvement.
I don't know what I could be doing wrong but at this point I really don't care about weather I can lock up my brakes or not I'd really just like some suggestions on what this shaking could be. And if it was flat spotted tires I would feel it accelerating in a straight line also, which I do not. it is only under hard cornering.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

if it was a blister or a flat spot you should be able to see it. so give it a look when you get the car up in the air. on one of our Ghetto miatas we race with nasa SE we had a really bad shimmy under hard turns. it was 100% in the steering wheel. you could feel it in the steering, car would really start shaking, and the car would push. turned out to be a bad rack. it was violent and the car would go into understeer city. but do check the hubs and ball joints. remember the weight needs to be off the suspension components to check the ball joints.

Darbymx5

Will do, thank you!

Savington

iTrader: (31)

It's probably a failed wheel bearing, but definitely keep whinging about your Wilwoods if you don't want to actually fix any of the problems with your car.

Darbymx5

now that I think about it.. it seemed to only do it on right hander turns. maybe something on the left side of the car is off and when the weight transfers on it it gets worse

DeerHunter

I had a similar problem on left-hand turns, except it was accompanied by the tire rubbing against the spring. I thought the alignment had slipped, leading to excessive negative camber. Turns out it was the passenger-front wheel bearing. Jack up the front end and check for play by rocking the wheel/tire.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The video shows .020", not 0.200".

Darbymx5

wheel bearings are oem from the dealer and brand new. why dont you go ahead and read everything I've listed about trying to get these brakes to work and then tell me what I'm doing wrong? Because I've tried everything, no short cuts, and they still suck.
BTW - thanks for letting me know what company not to buy anymore parts from.

codrus

FWIW, I've had a new hub installed by a dealer that went bad within 100 miles of street driving.

--Ian

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

I have a hard time with dial indicators :P. still an incredible distance. the Brembo in the video is flexing .01" a real motorsports caliper like a stocptech is significantly less. again this is all at room temp, not at 300-400*F a normal operating temp for calipers. mind you a miata that is not running should be near 700-800PSI of fluid pressure.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I told you on Facebook a week ago (I'm Andrew Kidd). You haven't gotten the air out of the system yet. I understand you've bled them umpteen billion times, but the symptoms of your problem indicate that you still have air in the system. Could be technique errors, could be a stubborn air pocket, but it's certainly not your calipers as other vendors would have you believe. I have stood in your shoes (difficult air pockets after new install) so I speak from direct personal experience.

If you are looking for a vendor who will politely tell you exactly what you want to hear, I would strongly advise that you look elsewhere.

Darbymx5

dang, that's really unfortunate. I wonder what could cause such premature failure? I'll definitely check mine. I also had mine professionally installed - at an outrageous price none the less. $450 for installed rear wheel bearings, and helping me repack the front. I should have just bought blueprinted hubs with bearings already installed at that price.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i've had really great luck with Moog. i was using timkin because "made in Japan", that I would repack myself, and they would last 2 events. i got a Moog last time and didn't pack it. just installed it as it came. it's lasted 2 and a half years and still going. i'm sold on moog now, and also not repacking them myself :P.

Darbymx5

this thread was not even supposed to be about my brakes it was never mentioned once in my original post.. I was looking for help on diagnosing a bad shimmy while cornering. Guess I came to the wrong place.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You are the one who brought up the brakes. Maybe now we can help you fix both?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

did you say wilwood?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Could also be worn bushings, bad upper or lower ball joints. Low tire pressure. bent rim. tire rubbing. loose tie rods. worn tie rods.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

Any amount of play or lack of stiffness can cause a shimmy like that. Similar to wheel hop, but for the suspension. I would guess at the rear end, since it's more loaded under acceleration. Right hand corner puts load on the left side. Check control arm bushings, axle slop, wheel bearings, diff bushings, driveshaft slop, etc. It's still possible it's in the front, so check steering rack and linkages. Issues that cause a severe shimmy like that are usually identifiable by hand, if play in a component is the root cause. Aka, if your control arm bushing is causing it, you'll most likely be able to move it around by pushing hard on it.