Clutch slipping, or diff opening up in corners?
I'm having some issues with what I believe to be clutch slippage. However, in past experience, once the clutch had started to slip, it then went south rather quickly. In this instance, the clutch would slip when feeding power in the corners. The clutch never completely failed; even after a 3 day race weekend.
One friend thought it might be the diff clutches opening up... I believe that I have an OEM Torsen diff. These don't slip; do they? 2004 msm. ACT cover and race disc. |
How stiff/what mods do you have done to the rear suspension? Another possible scenario is it is too stiff causing power oversteer.
I can't imagine why a clutch would slip only on corners. |
<p>OEM diff won't slip.</p>
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Lifting inside rear wheel? The OEM torsen will act as an open diff if one of the wheels has no traction at all.
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Originally Posted by fredricktsang
(Post 1242220)
Lifting inside rear wheel? The OEM torsen will act as an open diff if one of the wheels has no traction at all.
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1242221)
wut
How Stuff Works |
msm has a TF, not a torsen
I too thought it had a torsen for a while, but no |
sorry, missed the part that it was an msm
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^ Tochigi-Fuji is what I was thinking.
Don't those sometimes fail? |
Yes, and also I think they can slip. I'm trying to remember where I read that, I'll post up if I remember
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<p>A lot of 03 TF were set up incorrectly at the factory. Also we just said that the MSM has a TF but I think thats wrong. Its the same diff as the S2000 which has a torsen. I think the TF was in the 03 and up regualar Miatas. The MSM followed the trend of getting rid of extra old Miata parts.</p>
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What clutch and how much power are you running? We killed an FM1 pretty easily on a nearly stock MSM setup (with MS and bigger injectors).
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but how would a clutch slip only in corners? that makes no sense
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Originally Posted by fredricktsang
(Post 1242220)
Lifting inside rear wheel? The OEM torsen will act as an open diff if one of the wheels has no traction at all.
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MSM has a bosch made gear type diff IIRC. Different from the Gleason made torsen in the rest of the cars, but the same type of diff. Its the unweighted inside rear spinning. Disconnect the rear sway bar and this will stop.
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I can't speak for the msm diff but I know a factory 99 torsen can begin to slip with age. We've had a few go on some of our spec race cars, with only 130whp. They work fine except for really high load "aggressive" corners.
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<p>Theoretically thats impossible, since there is no wear components in a Torsen diff. And I don't see how even a wear in the gears could cause "slip".</p><p></p>
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Oh yeah, sway bar. Get rid of that.
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Torsens can wear out, but not in a way that will cause slip. There is some hardened washer that help keep pressure on everything that can wear down. Sadly there doesn't seem to be a source for replacement washers at this time.
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I had what seems like the same issue arise last event. Felt like the clutch was slipping as I went over inside curbing, my first thought was diff was wearing out until I reminded myself that I didn't think that was possible.
See examples at 1:52, 2:04 and 2:35 Based on how the Torsen operates, it makes sense to assume that the inside wheel was spinning due to one or a combination of the usual suspsects; less grip on the painted curb, momentary loss of contact with the ground while transitioning on/off curb, etc. Except that I was there a month prior, drove the curbs the same way, and it didn't do that once. Only obvious variable changed was that this time I was on Hoosiers instead of the usual RC-1s. But I would've expected a grippier tire to have the opposite effect.. |
Clutch slipping, or diff opening up in corners?
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1242398)
Except that I was there a month prior, drove the curbs the same way, and it didn't do that once. Only obvious variable changed was that this time I was on Hoosiers instead of the usual RC-1s. But I would've expected a grippier tire to have the opposite effect..
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Clutch slipping, or diff opening up in corners?
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1242405)
Ignore me I was completely in the wrong here, thinking about something different.
What's 2.4 times zero? ;) With too much rear bar for the available grip I have experienced inside "wheel-hop" in specific corners with Torsen, but most often only smooth wheelspin. |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 1242424)
A Torsen with e.g.TBR of 2.4 can transfer 2.4 times the torque of the tire with the least grip.
What's 2.4 times zero? ;) With too much rear bar for the available grip I have experienced inside "wheel-hop" in specific corners with Torsen, but most often only smooth wheelspin. |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 1242423)
Gripper tire means more roll and is the Hoosier grip level really higher on paint? :)
I started having inside wheel spin on 205 Hoosiers in two specific corners at one track. It has now shown up on 225 rivals at multiple tracks now that ive installed door bars. OSGiken is sitting in my garage waiting for fresh fluid so I can throw it in. |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 1242423)
Gripper tire means more roll and is the Hoosier grip level really higher on paint? :)
I may be underestimating the extra roll from the hoosiers, and the effect of bouncing over the curb at apex. On previous coilovers the curbs used to upset the car, so I drove accordingly (avoided big curbs) to keep the suspension settled and keep traction. Now I hardly feel the curbs, the car just soaks them up and settles on the other side without drama. I didn't at first think that the issue was the inside tire struggling for grip (it's probably hanging in the air like in my sig pic) because it felt like I was just gliding right along. -Ryan |
Example in this vid at 6:08.
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https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...42/#post892866
I had this same experience running a Kaaz in 1.5 way configuration. Lift the inside rear and it spins up - even if bouncing over a kerb. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1242230)
What clutch and how much power are you running? We killed an FM1 pretty easily on a nearly stock MSM setup (with MS and bigger injectors).
The car is 11# boost; 240 rwtq. A hot-shot MX-5 driver, Kenton Koch was at the race. He thought that the clutch packs might be slipping. I was just unclear at that point if the MSM had a Torsen or a clutch-pack diff. By the discussion and links above, it sounds like it is a Torsen. ... Apparently, I need a new clutch. Any recommendations on a track-only clutch set-up consistent with my low-moderate power levels? As far as the suspension; Yes, it does use a Spec Miata Eibach sway-bar package. I am using 850#/400# rates and I do still need to use the middle setting in the rear bar in order to get the car to point and to turn in a corner. How all of you can run that big front 1.25" RB and no rear bar is a mystery to me... It seems like you'd never get the car to rotate(?)... I'd like to learn more about it. Another factor is that I did not have enough rebound control in the shocks, which allowed for quite a bit of bounce and "hop" in the corners. This could have kicked it off the clutch; Or, it could be lifting a tire and messing with the Torsen as previously described. Thank you for trouble shooting. |
I've run an ACT Extreme clutch since 2008. I highly doubt you're slipping it. Based on the vids you are lifting a wheel enough to spin it, and you said you have a torsen. There's your answer!
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Originally Posted by speedj
(Post 1242576)
As far as the suspension; Yes, it does use a Spec Miata Eibach sway-bar package. I am using 850#/400# rates and I do still need to use the middle setting in the rear bar in order to get the car to point and to turn in a corner. How all of you can run that big front 1.25" RB and no rear bar is a mystery to me... It seems like you'd never get the car to rotate(?)... I'd like to learn more about it.
Another factor is that I did not have enough rebound control in the shocks, which allowed for quite a bit of bounce and "hop" in the corners. This could have kicked it off the clutch; Or, it could be lifting a tire and messing with the Torsen as previously described. Thank you for trouble shooting. Before you start throwing parts at the car loosen/remove that rear bar and try to duplicate the result. That would be the cheapest way of knowing for sure. |
Originally Posted by speedj
(Post 1242576)
As far as the suspension; Yes, it does use a Spec Miata Eibach sway-bar package. I am using 850#/400# rates and I do still need to use the middle setting in the rear bar in order to get the car to point and to turn in a corner. How all of you can run that big front 1.25" RB and no rear bar is a mystery to me... It seems like you'd never get the car to rotate(?)... I'd like to learn more about it.
Also, check your ride height - rake improves rotation. Many times when someone has the right list of suspension parts but the car pushes, it's because they have the ride height set to level. -Ryan |
Its not your clutch. Its the inside rear wheel spinning. You can either put in a clutch pack diff that you'll probably have to setup, or just drop the rear bar and run more spring.
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Originally Posted by speedj
(Post 1242576)
As far as the suspension; Yes, it does use a Spec Miata Eibach sway-bar package. I am using 850#/400# rates and I do still need to use the middle setting in the rear bar in order to get the car to point and to turn in a corner. How all of you can run that big front 1.25" RB and no rear bar is a mystery to me... It seems like you'd never get the car to rotate(?)... I'd like to learn more about it.
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Originally Posted by speedj
(Post 1242576)
Any recommendations on a track-only clutch set-up consistent with my low-moderate power levels?
Easiest solution would be to remove the rear bar. Handling might be negatively effected, however I think you'd notice your problem disappear. Then work your way back to a well balanced car you like, without reintroducing the problem. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1243993)
I am sorry that I skimmed and made it sound like the clutch is to blame. I tried to correct myself in my second post in this thread. After reading more and watching your video, it's fairly obvious it's your suspension setup causing this issue, NOT your clutch. Please, listen to the few posts above this one.
Easiest solution would be to remove the rear bar. Handling might be negatively effected, however I think you'd notice your problem disappear. Then work your way back to a well balanced car you like, without reintroducing the problem. If I understand the "best practices" for a 2400# miata NB race suspension setup for PIR it would be something like: RB 1.25 front bar; 14mm MSM rear bar; 850# front rate/550# rear rate. Adjustable shocks with attention payed to increasing the rear shock travel. |
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