Coolant mother f**king reroute
 

I hate beating a dead horse just as much as anyone but im really sick of searching and trying to figure out what is what and not getting my questions answered. Please take a look at the uploads and tell me what you think. Im plan on using the kia waterneck, begi spacer, and the big GM hose with all the right bends. Again the car is only track driven.

I have a PWR Radiator and live in AZ with 110*+ summers and 30*-50* winters

Im really sorry for making you guys read another one of these threads.:loser:


Option One
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1312582582


Option Two
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1312582582

Option 2 keeps the real problem there by having the hot water re-enter at the water pump. Option 1 is the same general idea most people use.

Option one... unless you are not using the heater core at all... then just dont allow flow from the back of the engine back to the WP.. aka don't loop the heater core lines.

Yeah option one is bypassing the heater core all togther my main concern from reading other threads is the car coming up to operating temp. Should also mention I run a PWR radiator

Never had an issue with my reroute up at Fort Drum... -10 degree weather on the daily. That was with a Mishimoto radiator.

If you run the heater core, keep it in the system and feed it like stock (feed pre-tstat, return to WP). If you don't run the heater core, gut the thermostat (but leave the plate in there as a restrictor) and eliminate the lines entirely.

And WTF are you doing running TB/IM heater lines still? Eliminate that shit.

Depending on ease of installation, option 2 will be the easiest. Option 1 would be better for tracking, so since that's more your goal, I would vote Option 1.

is that what all the kids are doing no-a-days? Any issue with idling when that is bypassed?

I live in AZ with hot ass summers and 30*-50* winters

yup, haven't had those lines in years and never had problems with starting or warmup and our winters are much colder than yours.

I see big heat spikes with option #2 every time the thermostat closes.

If you get the begi spacer, the line to the heater core is pre t-stat. So you will still have flow while warming up.

I have #1 with a tse radiator and it works well.

Slight issue with idling with a cold start up, but how often do you need to idle a race car. And if you do, it's not cold for long.

Hammer in a freeze plug after you remove the stock thermostat neck, and bolt on a strip of metal for safety's sake. T'ing in the heater core line to the lower radiator hose and weld a small plate over the hard line entrance on the mixing manifold. This can be drilled and tapped for your turbo water return. You can also flip the mixing manifold around to get rid of the two piece stock unit with the hard line piece bolted to the fender.

All this makes more room for turbo/intercooler/intake/heat shielding on the driver's side of the block.

Option One is fail. Without the heater-core circuit, you will have zero coolant flow through the engine when the thermostat is closed.

Option Two is functionally similar to a proper coolant reroute. In the absence of the heater core, you might add a restriction inline with the bypass, Maybe throttle it down to 3/8" or so.

Feel free to delete the TB/IM coolant line. No problems running without it in warm weather. I assume you have a 1.6 engine. If not, don't forget that your oil cooler is in that path, and you'll want to retain coolant flow for it. Best option for that is head -> oil cooler -> mixing manifold.


I don't.

Except for the missing heater core, Option Two is how the cooling system of the B-series engine was originally meant to operate when it was designed for FWD applications.

I was going to mention that but I thought I read that someone else had. Oh well.

Someone mentioned the issue with the stock routing is that the heater core outlet never goes through the radiator. You want it this way, or the car will never heat up on the street. The problem with the stock setup is the lower radiator hose dumping into the water pump and then taking the immediately available easy route out, right back to the upper radiator hose, leaving the back of the head poorly cooled.

I dont think he meant to eliminate the heater core in Option 1, maybe i'm wrong because he didnt draw up the picture.

go option 2 and return the heater core line to the top of the rad instead of at the water pump inlet.

The car will take ages to warm up as your "thermostat" will always be open.

That is also fail.

Doing this essentially bypasses the thermostat. You might as well not even have one installed.

Routing the output of the heater core back to the inlet of the water pump all the time is not the absolute most optimum configuration for maximum heat dissipation, however it's a design that is proven to work. Because of the restrictive nature of the core, and the narrow diameter of the hoses feeding it, plenty of water will be encouraged to flow through the thermostat and out into the radiator when the thermostat is open. This is why I suggested installing a restriction in the line if the heater core is eliminated.

If you want the absolute best possible design, you need a bypass-style thermostat. It's a Y-valve, which directs water out to one port when cold, and out to a different port when hot. Plumb the "cold" port to the water pump inlet, and the "hot" port to the upper radiator hose.



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...eL._SS400_.jpg

thanks for all the input everyone! To answer a few questions that were posted above, yes it is a 1.6L and according to your suggestions i will eliminate the TB/IM lines and yes i meant to draw option one with no heater core.

I think at my first go with this i will try option one and delete the jiggly pin as well as drill out the hole to 3/16" to aid with flow while the engine is cold. I will also put in a aftermarket temp gauge into the spacer and analyze the what the temps are doing.

If the car is staying too cold or dipping below 180* too frequently i will try option two in hopes that it will keep the temps more stable and warm.

My goal is to keep the temps between 180* and 220* during driving conditions.

A "standard" reroute (with the heater core in place, and its return into the mixing manifold) will accomplish that easily, even in Phoenix. As I recall, it does get rather chilly there at night in winter.