carnut169

You guys are a smart group. Well, there are some smart folks here anyway.

This is the schematic for the LFX track car I'm building. No real electronics (radio, heat, air etc all gone) and the only optional wiring will be some sort of driving lights so if I'm stuck out at dusk... anyway, I'm not an expert. Before I start running wires tell me what's wrong with this. I have amp loads for the fan, fuel pump etc and will be running the appropriate size wire and fuses. The engine harness is complete.

carnut169

Oh, the two boxes below the battery are these panels:

Satisaii

Quick notes.

Your master kill switch should completely remove the battery from the rest of the car. In a crash you want that to eliminate all the sparks that could cause a fire.

Alternator needs to run through the kill switch. I think this way if the throttle got pinned wide open the kill switch would not shut down the car. Part of tech here is to hold it at about 5k rpm and flip the switch. If it doesn't die, it doesn't pass. The corner workers will look for that switch first. We use a 4 post switch for this. Make sure the kill switch is rated for the correct amperage.

carnut169

Thanks. I got a good switch from Pegasus and it does have a diode and instructions for wiring which I'll follow.

good spot!

soviet

iTrader: (10)

The only advice I'd give is to wire the fuel relay directly to the battery, and put it in the trunk. Stock Miata fuel pump wiring is like 18ga.

carnut169

Why avoid the master for the fuel pump?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think it's closer to 20 or 22g.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I guess you don't have to avoid it, but you should replace the wiring with something heavier gauge.

carnut169

Whole car is being rewired. I'll use 10g for the fuel pump.