GR124

Hey guys been collecting bits for track only, forged, FI, BP4W. Aiming for a mild 250whp
I am currently racing the engine as NA and have put a small TIG tack on the butterfly screws, however I'm still concerned about munching the (new) engine if the shaft snaps/fails.
Plan on fabricating a inlet manifold. So I could put any TB I like on it. I don't need too large, I think the 64mm skunk would be a good size wise, open to suggestions.
Don't need all the IAC stuff. Just a simple TB

MY question is, what options are out there? Nobody likes to spend huge dollars, but if there is a good proven aftermarket unit?

WigglingWaffles

This is some "i heard from a guy who heard from a guy"
but apparently the SN95 mustang throttle bodies are a good upgrade on the cheap. Or the honda style skunk 2s and their ebay replicas

GR124

I have read of guys using the mustang TB, to what success in sustained high RPM race application I have no knowledge.

what are all the track guys using is it only Skunk2 TB?

GR124

May look into making a new quality TB shaft along with hi tensile screws to hold the butterfly inplace. I read an old Blog of Emilio doing something like this.
I have a spare factory TB I'll check out.

Gee Emm

Speaking as a avid consumer of stock TBs, not worth the trouble. I went to the Skunk2, problem solved. Search here, there is a thread about putting it together correctly, fixing the problems it comes with, but that is simple (from memory lots of thread locker and re-drilling a spring locating hole) and when done trouble free, at least mine was.

I was bloody lucky, my shaft screws went through with little more than a bit of an indentation in the cc squish area. But it was only a matter of time, and all my 'fixes' failed, so went Skunk. When I got the SE, the first thing I did was throw the TB and replace it with another Skunk, as I figured the turbine wheel would not play nicely with a screw passing through.

GR124

thanks for the reply Gee Emm. I have read through the skunk2 fixes ie loctite and redrilling to stiffen the spring rate. I guess my thoughts were if your spending this coin on an after market performance product why do you have to unbox it and modify so it’s fit for purpose. I not saying I wouldn’t buy one. I’m asking what else is out there since I’ll build an Inlet mani and can adapt any TB flange to suit.
I do appreciate your input though.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

I been running a Ford one for almost two years no problems. You can also use their IAC. It's small and works great.

Jehu68

Can I get more info on the Ford TB?
What years and models are compatible?
What do you need to do to get the IAC and TPS to work with MS3?

Jehu68

Can I get more info on this..?
What years and motors am I looking for?
What did you need to do to get the IAC and TPS working?
I have a MS3..

GR124

blow the expense,,,,, I just bought a Skunk2.

2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

ebay. Crown Vic's 98-04, mustang 98-00, lincoln town car, probably others.
IAC is ford in a bunch of different models. Maybe some mazda too. Standard 2 wire. I made a block off plate/mount, but its basically a hose on each side of the TB.

kb10ae

This is the route I ended up going. I'm not FI induction yet so the upgrade was 100% for reliability. I have about 500 miles on my rebuilt motor so far and slowly working up to my planned final redline of 7500, felt like it would just be a matter of time before the stock TB broke.

When you go to install the Skunk2, in addition to possibly needing to drill a new hole for the spring, make sure you leave a bit of slack in the throttle cable after you readjust it. I was fighting the notorious high idle/stuck TB issue even though I had a new hole drilled until I gave the cable more slack. Who knows you might even be able to just play with the adjustment in the cable and not have to drill a new hole at all.

Gee Emm

Yes, I agree, sloppy! Building your own manifold gives you a lot more flexibility, I wanted as close to plug and play as I could get, and the S2 seemed the answer.

In your situation, the biggest issue would be tuning - TPS and idle control integration with your ECU. I'd be looking locally at TBs from Hondas, Toyotas etc that are running blown engines on tuneable ECUs, and tap into that expertise for tuning tips. But if the wheel has already been invented with the Ford, that's a pretty good reason not to start from scratch. People like me might do it, because, well ... it's a mountain to be climbed, but if you like the flat path for ease and speed of progress that is the most sensible approach!