ECR track day fun
I went to the track this weekend at Eagles Canyon Raceway in the Ft worth Texas area. Had a lot of fun, ran in the advanced/instructor session. My car still got too hot and i had to loaf half the session. My ghetto ducting didn't do the trick. Still managed to turn consistent 2:04 times at the track, spec record is 2:07. The little turbo Miata is officially faster than the 420whp 2012 Boss 302 I used to track. I got a good laugh, my loafing 5th gear no shifting laps were mid pack intermediate laps. Video whoring below:
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Shanem, you running coolant bypass?
That cured my trackday overheating issues immediately. Prior to the bypass revving up to and over 7000 ontrack overheated it. Keeping revs below 7000 didn't. |
If I don't run a 2:04 in my car I will sever my penis.
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no reroute on the car. Trey, do you really expect your na car to only be a second off the same car when it was turbo? what sort of power is that thing putting out? BTW, the spec record there is 2:07. Only a few weeks off the toy run and we can see, looking forward to it.
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 952208)
no reroute on the car. Trey, do you really expect your na car to only be a second off the same car when it was turbo? what sort of power is that thing putting out? BTW, the spec record there is 2:07. Only a few weeks off the toy run and we can see, looking forward to it.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 952218)
I should be 3-5 seconds under the SM record at that track. I ran a 59 with 250whp. A 2:04 is just the penis severing time, ideally I will go lower via California braking.
What do you mean 59? |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 952299)
just so we are on the same page, if you turn a better time than me NA, I'll have to shoot you. No hard feelings.
What do you mean 59? shit shocks <120whp ------ brakes Torsen ------ diff 2:07 Green Glory Hole: the best shocks money can buy 170whp hetero brakes Cusco There better be more than 3 seconds in 40% more hp, better shocks, better brakes, and the manly diff. 1:59.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 999 back in March with the turbo. Now that I've "taken the orange pill", I think I have the skill to eclipse the manliness of the Cali crew. No Puerto Rican 1911, no care. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 952306)
Spec Miata:
shit shocks <120whp ------ brakes Torsen ------ diff 2:07 Green Glory Hole: the best shocks money can buy 170whp hetero brakes Cusco There better be more than 3 seconds in 40% more hp, better shocks, better brakes, and the manly diff. 1:59.999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 999 back in March with the turbo. Now that I've "taken the orange pill", I think I have the skill to eclipse the manliness of the Cali crew. No Puerto Rican 1911, no care. |
ya power is nice but trey sounds spot on...balls and good car setup helps a lot I have found (John W is fast for the same reason).
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 952409)
nice, i didn't know you had a lap that fast, i thought you said 2:03 was your fast lap.
https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...zr1-ecr-69330/ |
Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 953706)
LOL I am getting deja vu of this thread.
https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...zr1-ecr-69330/ |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 953744)
lol, nice lap man, we run nearly identical times. I put down a 2:04.3ish in my video. What dampers are you using? Are you going to the toy run Dec 8? assuming it doesn't rain out, long term forecasts say rain but you never know in Texas.
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Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 953745)
I will be at the toy run, revalved koni's, 700/450 springs, no rear bar, solid front bar. I am going to try and get a stock rear bar installed before the toy run, shooting for some 2:02's.
PS: if we have 3 miatas at the toy run turning 2:04 laps, porsche owners will weep openly and vette drivers will leave after the second session. |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 953752)
PS: if we have 3 miatas at the toy run turning 2:04 laps, porsche owners will weep openly and vette drivers will leave after the second session.
BTW, I don't have Xidas. I have cracker-jack AST junk. :) |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 953757)
The Spec Boxter guys complained about me on more than one occasion by "being too aggressive". Rich people don't like to get tail gated by Miatas with the headlights up, lol.
BTW, I don't have Xidas. I have cracker-jack AST junk. :) Am i the only track whore running a rear bar? i've got this one on the car: http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990...ars/54101.html and the matching front Also i think i have a few more track days in my 225 r888s on the car, ive liked the tires well enough, seem to grip very well. that said, the r888 are the first r comps i have ever used. Most everyone uses the nt01, you guys that have run ECR think they are faster? |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 953762)
lol, that's funny, AFAIK the ECR instructors are typically the spec boxter guys. I can see them being bitter when a $15k miata is all up the tail pipe of their $30k race car. I hope it doesn't rain, I want some track time.
Am i the only track whore running a rear bar? i've got this one on the car: Miata 1990-2005: Suspension - Sway Bars: Sway Bar - Solid - Rear - 90-00 Miata - and the matching front If you run a stock rear bar on a Xida car, you have a vagina (a busted one at that). If you run a stock rear bar on something else...the jury is still out. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 953766)
It all depends on how the car drives. If you had the same springs and dampers, then we'd tell you to get an MSM bar.
If you run a stock rear bar on a Xida car, you have a vagina (a busted one at that). If you run a stock rear bar on something else...the jury is still out. i assume you are both running advanced group at the toy run? |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 953767)
IDK, id say it tends to oversteer on the edge, not that it's outside the realm of controll. Maybe ill let you drive it at the toy run and you can let me sample the goodness of high end dampers.
i assume you are both running advanced group at the toy run? |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 953794)
I'm racing in Chump at TWS that weekend. :(
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 953762)
Also i think i have a few more track days in my 225 r888s on the car, ive liked the tires well enough, seem to grip very well. that said, the r888 are the first r comps i have ever used. Most everyone uses the nt01, you guys that have run ECR think they are faster?
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Comparing old, cycled out tires? Great idea.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 952169)
If I don't run a 2:04 in my car I will sever my penis.
you'll probably shave off :04sec by being able to shift without those horrible misses. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954050)
Comparing old, cycled out tires? Great idea.
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Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 954052)
But I've only got 83 cycles on mine
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954053)
I think I have 3 sets of tires in the garage with no less than 200 heat-cycles on the bunch.
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Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 954056)
impressive, how did those BFG comp T/A's work out for you?
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My 888's are still pretty fresh, they have only 2 hard track days on them and a couple test and tune days at MSR. They are on 9-inch rims though and will rub significantly if your fenders aren't rolled.
I'm not sure how many heat cycles nt01s have in them, i thought the consensus was that both the 888 and nt01 basically got quicker with less tread, and stayed the same until they corded. I forget where i read that, could have been here. my r888 started at full tread depth, i can still see the colored lines on them now. |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954060)
My 888's are still pretty fresh, they have only 2 hard track days on them and a couple test and tune days at MSR. They are on 9-inch rims though and will rub significantly if your fenders aren't rolled.
I'm not sure how many heat cycles nt01s have in them, i thought the consensus was that both the 888 and nt01 basically got quicker with less tread, and stayed the same until they corded. I forget where i read that, could have been here. my r888 started at full tread depth, i can still see the colored lines on them now. My last set of nt01's didn't seem to fall off much by the end. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954058)
Great on my Monte Carlo dirt tracker.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354122313 |
Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 954061)
I've got prob 12 heat cycles on mine, 2 track days, 1 time trial, on 15x9 c3m's
My last set of nt01's didn't seem to fall off much by the end. |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954060)
My 888's are still pretty fresh, they have only 2 hard track days on them and a couple test and tune days at MSR. They are on 9-inch rims though and will rub significantly if your fenders aren't rolled.
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954060)
I'm not sure how many heat cycles nt01s have in them, i thought the consensus was that both the 888 and nt01 basically got quicker with less tread, and stayed the same until they corded.
Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 954061)
I've got prob 12 heat cycles on mine, 2 track days, 1 time trial, on 15x9 c3m's
My last set of nt01's didn't seem to fall off much by the end.
Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 954062)
Shiiiit I thought they were on your short bed chevy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354122313
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954063)
same wheels i use, i wanted to go baller with the 6ul but they were out of stock everywhere at the time and i am not patient. sounds like the tires are about the same point in their life.
I presume those casting problems mean more stress goes to the smaller spokes. I would not trust my life to that wheel. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954067)
Dude, come on.
It depends if you drive like a ------ and get the tire to last 10 days or 5. My current NT-01s are pretty fast and at the chords but John and I blasted those tires over 3 track days driving hard as hell, all the time. My last set were done after 10-days and became slow after the 3rd or 4th. Seems right. 6x6, motherfucker. It pulls my house. Next time you're bored, look at the back-side of the wheel and appreciate the quality workmanship in that wheel. Every TR wheel I've seen has different spoke thickness on the same wheel. I recently tried to run that wheel on my car since the rubber on them was free. Some spokes hit the caliper, some didn't, lolol. I presume those casting problems mean more stress goes to the smaller spokes. I would not trust my life to that wheel. Sorry, WHEELS. at least i didn't come on here asking how to get my stance just right. those wheels have massive space with stock brakes, it's your baller BBK setup. Not arguing the 6ul isn't a better wheel, but the ones i am using are fine so far and were in stock, plus if i toss them in the garbage next year I am out only $400 for the set. I will check them out though, Ive got to get the wheels off and do a brake check and bleed this weekend. I've also got to get out the BFH and lay down a fancy custom fender roll on the passenger rear where it rubs when hauling too much ass. and plug up those damnded openings in the hood and bumper to see if it helps my cooling issues. |
Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954070)
Sorry, WHEELS. at least i didn't come on here asking how to get my stance just right. those wheels have massive space with stock brakes, it's your baller BBK setup.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954074)
You are suggesting the caliper moves to hit some of the spokes but not all of them?
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954077)
no, i'm suggesting i haven't had clearance issues on my set
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954080)
Troll post?
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Originally Posted by shanem
(Post 954081)
lol, no i was wondering if you were trolling me.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 954083)
You can't be helped, lololol.
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Time for a classic
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well i put the nose of the car up on ramps and decided to give the coolant system a good bleeding today. huge air bubble came out after it had been running for 10 minutes or so. it burst, tossed hot water on my arms, and then the level in the radiator dropped at least an inch or so. the water went from overflowing the neck before the bubble to at least an inch below it after. before the big bubble there were lots of little bubbles. it appears there was a lot of air in the system.
the car got up to 220 idling right before the big bubble and then dropped to 180 right after, hopefully that is a big part of the reason the car overheats on the track. also, the water is crazy nasty in the radiator. it looks muddy or like really thin oil, the water that overflowed onto my driveway actually stained it from the gunk. is that as bad as it seems? |
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