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I’m currently finishing up a build for the 2021 Champcar Endurance Series. The team name is HYB Racing (Hell Yeah Brother Racing). I wanted to start a thread to get people’s opinions and advice on the build progress so far. Thanks for checking it out!
The start of the wrap
Driveway paint job complete
Floor drop prep
Driver kill switch with custom 3D printed mount Crew kill switch
Overview of the interior progress. Cut dash, adjustable steering column, floor drop Switch panel on custom 3D printed base Drivers view Close up of glow shift gauge install. Tach, water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel.
Rain light installed Close up of 3D printed rain light mount
OMP full containment HTE-R installed. The biggest seat we could fit with the cage design
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience:
The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears.
The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit.
A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now.
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience:
The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears.
The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit.
A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now.
Thank you your comments. A lot of what you mentioned were initial concerns with the layout, so we have altered a few things slightly since the pictures were taken. We have gone ahead and removed the gauge hoods completely as well. So far we have not had any starting issues throughout this cold NH winter, but we will certainly keep the solid state switch advice in mind should we run into any issues.
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience:
The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears.
The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit.
A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now.
Very true, it is surprising how often teams have problems with the drivers hitting switches mounted too close to the shifter. I was working as a pit marshal at Road Atlanta and 2 years in a row the same car got black flagged for no taillights after dark when the driver accidentally turned them off. Which of course begs the better question of why they had a switch to turn the taillights off in the first place? A few tenths of an amp to run some LED tail lights all the time isn’t going to hurt anything and may help if it lets another car see you before punting into you even in daylight.
Emilio,
We also have a Champcar build going, have raced and shared a pit area with Clutch100. Our NB has a DPST mechanical switch. When we are testing/demonstrating the engine kill from 2000+ RPM something seems to be killing alternators. Have you or anyone you know experienced this? We are using MS3 that regulates the NB alternator, we are thinking of trying a NA8 alternator and see if the issue goes away.
Originally Posted by emilio700
Nice build for Champcar.
A few things I noticed, based on our experience:
The center console panel switches might be hard to reach when belted in. We mount ours further aft towards the shifter and angle it towards driver. Just make sure the drivers fingers can't hit the switches when in 1-3-5 gears.
The gauge hoods on that printed bezel might obscure the gauge from the drivers sight line. Might have to trim the left edges down a bit.
A single remote mounted kill switch sucks voltage. A double remote mechanical kill switch sucks lots of voltage. If you have a big battery with lots of CCA, it might be OK. If it's a lightweight battery, you might find it cranking too slow to fire in cold weather. Solid state master switches solve that problem but aren't cheap. We only use solid state switches now.
Try wiring it like this as far as the wire from the alternator. Don't use the second (small) set of terminals on the DPST. The alternator needs a path to discharge back to the battery or it can damage the diodes. never had good luck with the DPST switches.
01-21-2021, 07:50 PM
HYB 1990 Miata Endurance Car build
3
