Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 599868)
The line length does not matter so much. The amount of oil that will move back and forth is only determined by the displacement of the accusump.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 599875)
I know, but with 10' of #10 hose I bet there is at least half a quart in the hose alone and the accumulator will push that oil in addition to the oil in the can.
The other thing to remember if you're using the Accusump as a hydraulic accumulator it's only going to push oil for the amount of time the Accusump has more pressure than the engine... may not be long enough to get that quart into the engine. |
Originally Posted by Rennkafer
(Post 599883)
Doesn't work that way... if you push a quart of oil into the hose, a quart will come out (assuming the hose is already full, if not you may get less).
The other thing to remember if you're using the Accusump as a hydraulic accumulator it's only going to push oil for the amount of time the Accusump has more pressure than the engine... may not be long enough to get that quart into the engine. |
Sorry, looked as though you were thinking that you would get a quart and a half into the engine because of the hose.
Is a 1 QT enough... depends on several things: viscosity of the oil, flow capacity of the hoses/valves, time the engine is low on pressure. These things all change from car to car, different ambient temps, different tracks. If you're worried about it get the 2 Qt, if you're really worried convert to a dry sump. |
Originally Posted by Rennkafer
(Post 599903)
If you're worried about it get the 2 Qt, if you're really worried convert to a dry sump.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 599843)
How much hose did you use? I'm desperately trying to move weight to the rear of my car too. Will a 1qt accusump cut the mustard...especially considering the amount of oil in the extra-long line?
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 599843)
Is the 1-way valve required? My oil system goes: pump-plate-cooler-filter-engine, so I'm not sure if I need it or not. Also, can I stack a Mocal plate and one of these? That would make install too easy.
One other idea: Put a low pressure alarm on the pressure side of the Accusump; it will buzz you *before* you actually lose all oil pressure. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Rennkafer
(Post 599903)
Sorry, looked as though you were thinking that you would get a quart and a half into the engine because of the hose.
Is a 1 QT enough... depends on several things: viscosity of the oil, flow capacity of the hoses/valves, time the engine is low on pressure. These things all change from car to car, different ambient temps, different tracks. If you're worried about it get the 2 Qt, if you're really worried convert to a dry sump. I decided when my rebuild goes in accusump will also be installed. Pictures of odd damage to a rod bearing attached. Bob |
Originally Posted by MeOughtta
(Post 600174)
One other idea: Put a low pressure alarm on the pressure side of the Accusump; it will buzz you *before* you actually lose all oil pressure.
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Originally Posted by MeOughtta
(Post 600174)
Put a low pressure alarm on the pressure side of the Accusump; it will buzz you *before* you actually lose all oil pressure.
I'm doing this to prevent another built motor paperweight adventure. |
Originally Posted by wildo
(Post 601325)
That right there, is a great idea!
I used pressure sensor S367 from O'Reilly auto in my remote mount filter, and then have it wired up to an LED in my pillar next to oil temp. It cost around 10 dollars total for the low pressure light which is rather annoying when the car is not on but the ign is in the run position (so you know you'll see it!) |
As we say here at mt.n this thread is full of win.
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Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 601218)
Did you use an electronic valve or manual?
For a track-only car, I would not consider anything but the manual valve. |
Why?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 599907)
If for budget DIY dry-sump kit.
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 601564)
Why?
I'm going to put mine in the trunk with the long cabled valve. Savington is going to get one for me, we're in love. |
Get a room...
Well it would be a lot cheaper without the pressure triggered electric valve setup so I am not going to argue too much for that. |
Other than cost, what is the down-side of the electric valve? Seems that the set pressure points of the EPC valve are a nice feature. 20-25 PSI, 35-40 PSI, and 55-60 PSI versions are available.
Description of the 35-40 PSI valve from Canton Racing's Accsump website: "This Electric Pressure Control Valve Kit is for a discharge/refill of 35-40 PSI. These valves have the convenience of an electric valve for remote mounted units and the rapid refill rate of a manual valve as required in racing. The E.P.C. valving will only allow the Accusump to discharge oil when the engine’s oil pressure drops below a predetermined level and only refill when the pressure rises above that level. Comes with the regulator, electric valve, a pipe nipple, a toggle switch, wire, terminals and instructions." The #1 reason I like the idea of the EPC valve, is that I'm an idiot. With my luck the one time I REALLY NEED the Accsump to work would be the one time that I forgot to open the valve. |
Originally Posted by wildo
(Post 601794)
The #1 reason I like the idea of the EPC valve, is that I'm an idiot. With my luck the one time I REALLY NEED the Accsump to work would be the one time that I forgot to open the valve.
The peace of mind is worth $150. I need to make up my mind... |
Originally Posted by wildo
(Post 601794)
Other than cost, what is the down-side of the electric valve? Seems that the set pressure points of the EPC valve are a nice feature. 20-25 PSI, 35-40 PSI, and 55-60 PSI versions are available.
Description of the 35-40 PSI valve from Canton Racing's Accsump website: "This Electric Pressure Control Valve Kit is for a discharge/refill of 35-40 PSI. These valves have the convenience of an electric valve for remote mounted units and the rapid refill rate of a manual valve as required in racing. The E.P.C. valving will only allow the Accusump to discharge oil when the engine’s oil pressure drops below a predetermined level and only refill when the pressure rises above that level. Comes with the regulator, electric valve, a pipe nipple, a toggle switch, wire, terminals and instructions." The #1 reason I like the idea of the EPC valve, is that I'm an idiot. With my luck the one time I REALLY NEED the Accsump to work would be the one time that I forgot to open the valve. The Manual valve seems bullet proof as long as you remember the proper sequence of flipping the valve and can place it where you have access. The EPC Electric valve seems like with the pressure discharge/refill window and the rapid flow capability would be the functionally the best. Question is will it operate as flaky as so many other electronic control devices I have fiddled with or will it actually consistently and reliably work as advertised? Also with the EPC valve which of the available discharge/refill pressure options would be best for a miata engine, 20-25, 35-40, or 55-60? Bob |
With the amount of money spent on an accusump (3-400$) you could probably get a decent dry sump kit started.
Finding a pump for cheap is the only real problem, everything else can be made diy style. Then you wouldn't have to worry about the accusump actually working properly, but it will cost abit more upfront. Cost of Accusump + another rebuild when it fucks up > Dry sump diy system |
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