First time at the track with the turbo Miata
I have been driving/racing a LS1 FD RX7 for about a year now, just picked up a 92 Miata, stock 1.6, old style FM turbo kit with GT2560. The old style kit has the messy IC pipe routing, the turbine outlet is welded steel, not cast, ECU is MSPNP. I got it tuned and running well on the street, I am trying to figure out what I need to do to prepare for a track day, I hear all of these horror stories about turbo miatas at the track, I am just trying to keep my bases covered, Inconel studs are a good place to start, what other reliability issues do I need to worry about? As far as tuning goes, rich=high egts from what I understand, should I target ~11.5:1 to keep my egt's in check? Any other input would be great. Thanks in advance!
:noob: |
Cooling system, oil cooling, heat shielding.
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Already have a nice radiator and a 12x12x1 oil cooler. Any examples of the heat shielding? How hot do these cars run when being driven hard, my LS1 would run all the way to 235 but they run on the high side.
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Look into coolant reroute if your concerned about cooling issues.
Which in my opinion, any heavily tracked turbo miata should have the coolant reroute. Not necessary, just a nice pre-caution. BTW, specs on ls1 rx7?! |
Yeah, pics of FD prease.
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Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 714245)
The old style kit has the messy IC pipe routing
I clocked my compressor housing so it became a bottom exit. Then I cut the piping and made it go from the compressor, directly to the I/C. It eliminated that big mess of piping, and really cleaned things up. |
94, TSP 5.3 Stg 2.5 heads, MS3 cam, Stg 3 T56.
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Originally Posted by thirdgen
(Post 714255)
I used to use the similar kit, if you're talking about the intercooler piping that uses a top exit compressor orientation, then cuts in front of the pulleys and into the top of the intercooler tank.
I clocked my compressor housing so it became a bottom exit. Then I cut the piping and made it go from the compressor, directly to the I/C. It eliminated that big mess of piping, and really cleaned things up. |
nevermind
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Too much timing retard also increases egt.
My sawzall vented hood made a huge difference in water and under hood temps. Inconel and v bands are proving to be good solutions. For me, I went 3/8" A286 bolts, safetywire, nords and high temp threadlock along with this bracket on the wastegate all in one shot. Seems to be secure so far. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i107/1Il/IMGP0868.jpg On the RX7 did you ever replace the pillowballs on the rear control arms? Do you happen to know a source for them? |
Originally Posted by BenR
(Post 714263)
On the RX7 did you ever replace the pillowballs on the rear control arms? Do you happen to know a source for them?
http://www.tascaparts.com |
Originally Posted by Mach1
(Post 714257)
Yep that's what I am talking about, after you reclock how did you mount the wastegate since the mounting points are on the wrong side, it looks like FM's updated kit had a diff bracket welded to the WG so it mounts on the back of the compressor housing instead of the front.
If I remember right, I think this eliminated about 3' of the original plumbing. |
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What turned you away from tracking the v8 FD? Expenses?
Quite a few members here nut all over themselves when they hear the letters LS and FD together...... including myself, brb changing pants. |
Originally Posted by flier129
(Post 714281)
What turned you away from tracking the v8 FD? Expenses?
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Im back with new pants.
I figured that was the case. Put your location in your profile so we know where to go to stalk you :-D |
Originally Posted by flier129
(Post 714286)
Im back with new pants.
I figured that was the case. Put your location in your profile so we know where to go to stalk you :-D |
Hello neighbor... Have I seen this car at Pennington Field?
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Originally Posted by Machismo
(Post 714340)
Hello neighbor... Have I seen this car at Pennington Field?
:facepalm: |
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