Originally Posted by ITOzann
(Post 1198923)
Wha's usually in your trunk? :eek:
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Excess weight in the trunk is why the MkIII MR2's lost the trunk and all the storage was forward of the cabin. The MKII has only a rear trunk and a bunch of weight hanging off the ass past the motor even increased the snap on throttle lift.
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Newb question:
Looking at the tech sheet (bad link now, btw), it states that the seat/restraint system must be the same for driver and passenger if there is going to be a passenger/instructor. My driver's seat is a Recaro Profi SPG XL. Does that mean they would require me to have another Recaro SPG XL, or could I get something more economical like a Sparco Sprint? Option three would be to put my shitty stock seat back in, but I'd rather not do that for a number of reasons. |
Your passenger seat doesn't need to be the same as the driver seat, but it must be held to the same standards as the driver seat. So a Sparco Sprint in the passenger seat will be fine, such that it's mounting and harness is sufficient.
Stock seat wouldn't fly, if the instructor isn't very short. |
Originally Posted by acedeuce802
(Post 1313006)
Your passenger seat doesn't need to be the same as the driver seat, but it must be held to the same standards as the driver seat. So a Sparco Sprint in the passenger seat will be fine, such that it's mounting and harness is sufficient.
Stock seat wouldn't fly, if the instructor isn't very short. Guess I wasn't clear, I would be putting the stock seat back on the driver's side. Then both me and the instructor would be at the same standard of: pretty much going to die if anything happens.:hatecat: |
not so fast. Different clubs have different rules so I would email or call the event coordinator to discuss. its pretty safe to say if the details page says the seats need to be the same perhaps you need to choose a different event. Personally Ive not seen such a rule but I have seen rules that state if the driver has a harness the instructor must have a harness and you cant really run a harness very well on stock seat or so many will claim. if you planning to get an instructor and are new to an event I suggest you follow their rules to avoid the unpleasantness of being told you can't run.
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Even if they don't require matching safety for both seats, it's just good etiquette to do so. Get a passenger race setup or reinstall OEM safety on your side and don't drive at 11/10ths.
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Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1313721)
Even if they don't require matching safety for both seats, it's just good etiquette to do so. Get a passenger race setup or reinstall OEM safety on your side...
Remember that even though you paid for a track day, when the instructor comes over to your car he can still say "Nope," and turn and walk away. It can happen. |
I changed my oil a little under 2600 miles ago, would it be better to change my oil before the track this weekend or should I just wait until after?
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If your going to change it soon anyways, do it before the the event.
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Really? My dad was saying the opposite, he said since I still have quite a few miles to go before I NEED to change it, I should just change it after the track. I figured I'd just check up on here and see what you guys have to say.
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Changing your brake fluid is more important. Oil is cheaper than the metal it is protecting and I would rather have fresh oil protecting things if I am going to be stressing the engine.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1325876)
Changing your brake fluid is more important. Oil is cheaper than the metal it is protecting and I would rather have fresh oil protecting things if I am going to be stressing the engine.
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For your first track day? I doubt it, you're not going to be pushing the car nearly as hard as you think you are.
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I'd change it afterwards. Save the $40.
Also from your other thread, stay on street tires as long as you can. |
Originally Posted by FatKao
(Post 1325954)
For your first track day? I doubt it, you're not going to be pushing the car nearly as hard as you think you are.
Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect
(Post 1325962)
I'd change it afterwards. Save the $40.
Also from your other thread, stay on street tires as long as you can. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1314624)
^This.
Remember that even though you paid for a track day, when the instructor comes over to your car he can still say "Nope," and turn and walk away. It can happen. happens all the time. i instruct our local instructors to inspect the cars. if it looks questionable, walk away.
Originally Posted by FatKao
(Post 1325954)
For your first track day? I doubt it, you're not going to be pushing the car nearly as hard as you think you are.
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1326825)
happens all the time. i instruct our local instructors to inspect the cars. if it looks questionable, walk away.
ehh i'm sure there will be one turn that you push too hard. on average yes you are correct. and beginners are harder on brakes then the pros are. lots of dragging the pedal= lots of heat. good race pads area a great idea. |
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1326825)
lots of dragging the pedal= lots of heat. good race pads area a great idea.
The difference is the pros do it more quickly, so the brakes have more time leading up to and after the braking event to cool down. |
Originally Posted by ApexAddict
(Post 1326844)
my buddy told me Hawks HPS pads can hurt the paint on your wheels, is this true?
If you were at Norcal SAAC, it may have been me who said that about Hawks. I must have mistakenly assumed you were using DTCs for the track. |
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