got my tubular subframe
#1
got my tubular subframe
Ordered a mountless tubular front subrame. Fit is spot on. No pushing, prying, etc. to line up any bolts.
Two points of criticisms however.....
1. The advertised weight savings with mounts is 10lbs. Mine with no mounts is 8lbs lighter than stock.
2. When they build it with mounts, they cut the ends of the front tube where it curves back and joins the rails that run parallel to the car. On the mountless, those ends extend back until their natural intersection which means they are in the way for attaching my own mounts. Not a huge deal but I just wasn't expecting it.
Making a jig off the stock subframe to fab solid aluminum motor mounts and their attachment to the new subframe and then onto building tubular adjustable upper control arms and tubular lower arms.
It's Febuary 18 already?!?!
Two points of criticisms however.....
1. The advertised weight savings with mounts is 10lbs. Mine with no mounts is 8lbs lighter than stock.
2. When they build it with mounts, they cut the ends of the front tube where it curves back and joins the rails that run parallel to the car. On the mountless, those ends extend back until their natural intersection which means they are in the way for attaching my own mounts. Not a huge deal but I just wasn't expecting it.
Making a jig off the stock subframe to fab solid aluminum motor mounts and their attachment to the new subframe and then onto building tubular adjustable upper control arms and tubular lower arms.
It's Febuary 18 already?!?!
#8
The mounts they provide only match the mounting surface of the factory subframe and are meant to still utilize a factory style multi-piece rubber mount to the block. I don't want that! We are going with solid mounts and rather than fab a solid mount that goes between the optional mounting point and the block, it's easier to fab the whole thing from the subframe hoop up to the block. Not sure if that make sense as described, but when I post pictures it should make sense.
#11
The mounts they provide only match the mounting surface of the factory subframe and are meant to still utilize a factory style multi-piece rubber mount to the block. I don't want that! We are going with solid mounts and rather than fab a solid mount that goes between the optional mounting point and the block, it's easier to fab the whole thing from the subframe hoop up to the block. Not sure if that make sense as described, but when I post pictures it should make sense.
These engines have serious vibration.
Bob
#15
Saving 2.2lbs per mount from stock. This is no dual purpose application fellas. I could see your point if I was turning some miles in the car or spending some time behind the wheel. 60 seconds at a time. That's all I'm after.
Looking to loose another 30-40lbs off the front. New subframe and mounts=12.4lbs toward that goal.
Looking to loose another 30-40lbs off the front. New subframe and mounts=12.4lbs toward that goal.
#16
Saving 2.2lbs per mount from stock. This is no dual purpose application fellas. I could see your point if I was turning some miles in the car or spending some time behind the wheel. 60 seconds at a time. That's all I'm after.
Looking to loose another 30-40lbs off the front. New subframe and mounts=12.4lbs toward that goal.
Looking to loose another 30-40lbs off the front. New subframe and mounts=12.4lbs toward that goal.
Ouch my head hurts.
I wanted to move the engine back and keep something that would fit in the production GT rules
Seems like combinig XP solo and club GT rules it is saying put in a rotary engine to have the best setup within the rules.
#18
I can help some one the XP rules front. You can move the engine as far back as the firewall will allow. The firewall is "sacred" in Prepared. You can notch it and "clearance" the firewall for certain things and not for other. And you can't just modify the firewall for 1 part and move the illegal part into the newly clearanced area.
The simplest rule for engine placement in XP is the head(s) can not go past the factory location of the front firewall.
You must go to a Mod class (D/E) if you want to move the motor back farther than that.
The simplest rule for engine placement in XP is the head(s) can not go past the factory location of the front firewall.
You must go to a Mod class (D/E) if you want to move the motor back farther than that.
#19
Correct. The firewall is the key. The firewall cannot be moved back or clearanced for the engine. In XP the only other engine placement rule is the orientation. With a big(for a 1.8) twin screw charger, hanging off the side and the big TB we're running, there is no room to move things back.
#20
Correct. The firewall is the key. The firewall cannot be moved back or clearanced for the engine. In XP the only other engine placement rule is the orientation. With a big(for a 1.8) twin screw charger, hanging off the side and the big TB we're running, there is no room to move things back.
The part that sticks up that does not separate the driver from the engine compartment is not part of the firewall and can be removed. moving the engine back 3 inches will allow the radiator to be moved back and slanted in behind where my sway bar will end up witch will further help in moving necessary weight back and down.