How to tell if suspension is bent
 

Just got back from the alignment shop...the bad news is it seems I have something is bent as my front passenger camber can't get higher than 1.4*. Oddly enough my caster is fine (he was able to put in 6* there). I can't think of how anything got bent really, visually the subframe and the control arms look fine. I don't see any new rust spots or bends/dents. Anyone have a better way of checking for such things? or should I just say ---- it and buy a new LCA?

The good news, if any, is that I replaced all the eccentrics in an attempt to get this fixed.

Have you tried replacing the lower ball joint? That would be my first guess, otherwise pm me and I'll sell you a used lower control arm.

hmm thats an idea...at 68k miles, does it seem reasonable that that is the culprit? My has only been tracked on street tires, and like I said, never hit a curb, and other than a few offs on track, I haven't really abused it.

I feel like if I am going to take ---- apart to replace, then I might as well do them all. Is it possible the UCA is damaged also?

I have a track event on the 11th, so I am a bit short on time here.

What's the ride height?

5.25"

I can easily get 2.2* on the left side. so I doubt ride height is it.

Gotcha. Like Nick said, start with the lower balljoint, then swap the LCA.

Just out of curiosity, do you guys replace this stuff with used or new? I can see control arms being fine used (as long as they aren't bent also), but what about ball joints and the such?

On my car, I would do a new balljoint and a used arm. The balljoint is $41 from Comp. NA01-34-550A

Im posting here for results. Im having very similar issues with the car. I cant tell specifics yet, but this weekend we will be aligning the car and I will be able to get more details. Ever since I bought the car it has been understeer city. I know that part of the issue is ride height, therefore we raised the car. I believe it is at 5.25 now as well.

Regardless of that, this car has always been impossible to get a decent alignment on.

Joe, tell me what comes out of your car asap. You may need the same stuff I need. :dunno:

SO, I got the camber gauge and toe plates out among a few home depot tools and fucked with the alignment on the left side. I was about to get about 1.5* of camber and a total of maybe ~5.5* of caster. I checked the other side and it went up? Apparently I am at 2.5* camber on the right side and ~6* of caster. Is that normal? I adjusted the toe back to zero, so I am doubtful its stemming from that.

I am thinking it really might be the control arm. Andrew and Nick, have you guys experienced that the ball joint is usually what goes out?

Just incase you need upper CA ball joints only - if the CAs are not bent, miataroadster sells new upper joints by the pair - $150 (made by V8roadsters). Only other NEW way is Maz upper CAs at $200+ each :eek4:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328274258

I am confused? I can buy a new upper CA from mazdaspeed dev. for $94 then $1.34+.68 for cotter pin and castle nut.

Im also confused. I thought that the UCA and balljoint were one piece...

They are. I think you have to do a fair bit of machine work for the V8r joints to work.

Also, I had this issue a while back, new (used anyway) LCA fixed it for me. Visually, there was no difference in the arms, but the lower was tweaked in some way that was bad enough I couldnt get the alignment I was looking for.

Using a press for 10 minutes = machine work?

I thought I read (back when I was looking at replacements, so its been a while obviously) that the V8r joints were tapered or shaped differently? Maybe not? :dunno:

I don't have a press, but I do have jaw pullers, if those work, then I will consider this an option if an LCA doesn't fix it. I am really tempted to just pull the trigger on an LCA anyway, @$75 its not exactly a bank breaker, and I would rather have it in case the LBJ doesn't work...------ decisions man. Why don't I have a lady friend make them for me?!?...oh wait, nm that won't help.

Learn something new every day:
http://miataroadster.com/v8_roadster.../i-409013.aspx

While these look bauce, I'd probably just call Mazda Dev for $94 new CA w/joint, especially if you think the CA may be bent. Perfect time to install polly bushings too. How long are these things lasting for the Spec/turbo/ax track guys? They go something like 100k+mi on the street, sometimes OEM is hard to beat

Where the heck are you finding them for $94? Ive NEVER seen them that low.

Rosenthal:
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...52d250%29.html

Mazdaspeed dev. you need to have an account, but here is a screen shot:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1328298302