dasting

I've see about a half dozen or so used HNRS pop up on NASA forums and various local Facebook race groups in the last two years. They all have listed for $300-450 and I think they have all sold within hours of being posted. Two of my friends found theirs that way.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

I'll keep an eye on the NASA forums, but **** facebook, Zuckerberg is a ****.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

There are quite a few on eBay between 3 and 400 at the moment.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Looks like amazon has the zamp for 380 shipped new.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Leatt sounds to be more comfortable, with pads to reduce fatigue. Priced about the same as hans sport. Good company too.

JSpeed6

iTrader: (3)

I held a Zamp restraint at this past SEMA. Price is good, probably has the most adjustment for any body type out there...but was HEAVY. Not exactly sure of weight, but felt heavier than a HANS.

I have a Necksgen and love it, never did like the feel/fit of the HANS.

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

Another option for a street seat is the tillet b5. It should work well with OEM belts:
https://www.levelxms.com/tillett-b5-racing-seat

It doesn't have a fia cert like the b6f but the one I have seen in person was super strong.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

My B6F without padding is more comfortable than the lotus seats I've sat in. A B5 with padding would be a great dual duty seat. And it already has harness holes unlike the lotus seats.

Also, I designed a set of brackets that use the stock front mounting points to put a Tillett all the way on the floor in a miata. You have to drill new holes for the rear because the seat covers the rear floor humps, but you don't have to cut the humps out. Brackets for a Tillett are a pain in the *** because the sides of the seat aren't perpendicular to the seat bottom... A regular 90 degree bracket doesn't work. I've tried a LOT of seat/bracket combinations and this is the lowest I've ever sat in in a miata. I still have the CAD and can easily make another set for anyone interested.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I looked at buying a pair and adding them to our catalog, but $1200 for a single seat vs. $1200-$1300 for a pair of Elise seats makes it a hard sell. I'm also not so sure about the OEM seatbelt compatability. My OEM belts with the Blackbird rollbar sit right next to the Elise seat, and the Tillett is at least a couple of inches wider at that height.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

This is a super helpful thread. Thanks to all the contributors!

Where does a racing suit fit in the priority list for HPDE?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Another vote for Necksgen. I bought one used and am very happy with the quality, comfort, and they supposedly offer a little side impact support.

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

You are probably right. This is from when I mocked up my b6f in the car when the factory belts were in. If the seat was a few inches off the floor the belt might run right through the shoulder opening happily but you wouldn't sit as low as an elise seat:

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Does that weight on that device effect safety?

I can always cut that much from myself or the car.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

That's very pretty, but has no head containment. I don't see the point posting it in this thread past cf **** in a miata carcass. This thread isn't about street cars.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

This thread is totally about street cars. For race cars the question of safety equipment is more straight forward because the sanctioning bodies dictate minimum standards. This thread is for people figuring out how to safely prep their street cars for HPDE.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

This

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for being confused, in the race prep section, talking about track day safety, and the graph in the op stating specifically that you need a full containment seat or window nets to be safe.




The sanctioning bodies dictating the rules:

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

You could just read back a few posts and see the discussion instead of **** posting?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Stop arguing now.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Fire suits!

What you are wearing should be considered.
#1 never ever wear polyester (aka licra). 50% of the shirts on the market are made from polyester, just check the tag. Polyester melts at 200* once it melts it needs to be surgically removed from your skin. Bad news considering a normal race car cabin can be 140*. Good rule of thumb is wear cotton or nomex. Cotton won’t melt, but ignites at 255*, Nomex is best.

#2 suits we have 2 suits to choose from Sfi3.2a/1 and sfi3.2a/5.

- The 3.2a/1 I call a track day suit. They are made from cotton that is sprayed with a fire retardant chemical. Sparco Driver Racing Suit they are dirt cheap and start at 150 bucks. If you’re looking for something to wear that is lighter then denim these are a great choice. The down side is the chemical washes out. So after 5-6 washes the suit is just a cotton bag. I recommend replacing them every year. .

The 3.2a/5 is a full oat nomex suit. These don’t wash out they will always offer fire protection. The down side is you get what you pay for. These suits start at $250 bucks and go too $2300. The cheap ones are very very heavy, and hot. I refuse to sell the $250 suits to anyone that races south of the mason Dixon line. the best bang for your buck is the alpine stars starting at 500. It’s a light suit for the price.


Best Regards,
Johnny C.

South East Field Representative
Office: 1-800-934-9112 ext 124
Direct: (770)-880-7579
This thread is about educating the masses. You will get stubborn people (this is the internet) you will also get lots of questions. I will do my best to make sure everyone’s questions get answered. It’s better to have the information so you can better prepare yourself, then to think your safe with when you’re not.